Engine seized 2 miles after rebuild

[dude]

I agree with Mr Crow ,and allford, Had wrong starter plate on a engine that would lockup. car and truck and some Merc are diff.

[Kahuna]

Essentially, all that needs to be done is "jumper" around the 95% system to avoid the problem you encountered. I'm out of town at the moment or I could send you a picture.
Sorry that you had to learn this the HARD way.
Best of luck
Jim

[Barlea]

Certainly a jumper hose will work around the grub screw if you know the grub screw is there, but my point was that the way Ford engineered the 95% full flow, you would need to remove the fittings to plug the ports, and in doing so you remove the block. ..B.

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by Barlea

The fitting can be made by modifying one of the brass fittings that are used to change from the 1/4" pipe thread (3/8" ID) oil ports to the 3/8" ID flexible pressure line to the full-flow filter base. Use a drill press to run a 3/8" bit slightly into the bottom of the fitting and a short piece of thinwall brass tubing can be soldered in place. This is a slip-fit 1 1/4" down the vertical oil passage and will be long enough to pass the horizontal passage and isolate the "out" from the "in". No grub screw surprises. ..B.

Thanks, I had been thinking of doing something like that rather than drilling and tapping that horizontal passage. Just hadn't tried to put it together. Big help.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by Barlea

The system used by Ford Canada in WWll engines and as option until '51 did not use a grub screw to block the horizontal connecting passage. The outboard vertical oil port used a special brass fitting with a 1 1/4" long thinwall tube projecting from it's bottom that blocked the horizontal passage when it was in place. If the full flow filter was to be disconnected, the brass fittings that connected to the flexible 3/8" ID hose would be removed for the pipe plugs to go in, and the passage would be open for either the use of the partial flow filter, or no filter. Since all Ford Canada blocks had the extra inboard oil port, dealers could easily add or remove the filter and special fitting. ..B.

Barlea, Is there any way that you could do a sketch and/or take some close up digital pictures of the actual parts you are describing and post them here? I'm probably a little dense, but I'm having a difficult time understanding what you are talking about in your post quoted above. Thank you

[BillM]

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Here is a picture from the Canadian manual. The fitting in question is the one on the left at the bottom of the two oil lines.
The manual can be found here (Post #149): http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...66#post4590066

[Ronnie]

This will work

2¢more

R

[JM 35 Sedan]

BiilM & Ronnie, Thanks for posting pics and other info. I understand better now. Also copied into my files. Thank you

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

The answer is Main bearing: the rear bearing was fine, the center bearing was toast and the front bearing was about to go.

Mr. Merc, I think you said that you went 2 miles before it stuck, if the oil pressure was low, to none, you wouldn't have made it two miles. Looking at the bearings you posted, those bearings with out a doubt, did NOT have enough clearance. The one that has a hard rub on it, is a dead give away. Also the one that is smeared. Bearings always tell the story. Herm.

[Mike in AZ]

rear bearing got oil....other bearings, etc. did not because of the oil gallery being plugged with that horizontal plug for the 95% full-flow bilter....Mike

[42ford]

I am somewhat confused. I have a new block. I guess is was a Canadian block. There are 3 3/8 npt holes on the back of the bell just like several of these pics and diagrams show. What I did was to install the oil sending unit on the top of the small boss that has one on the side also. I then installed the line to the oil filter ( original type that mounts on the head with 3 head bolts) I ran the return line to the oil pan boss as in the original 42 - 48 pans. I have about 400 miles and get great oil pressure. Is that OK? Would I gain anything by moving the return line to the unused boss on the bell ? I bought the block in a crate from Joblot in the 70s and installed all new Ford parts that were purchased from them at the same time. The salesman that they had at time was great and told me how to do it
Thanks,
Dick

[42ford]

At one time there was a man selling what must have been the grub screw. He was a clu member and lived on one of the islands of the northern Ca coast.

[Ralph Moore]

So will this system work with a canister style filter? I would like to keep mine traditional looking and plan to put a firewall mounted filter. A spin on would be way out of place.
I like the O-ring style plug, you could put your pressure gage off a Y fitting at the block as well.
Does anyone have the specs on that type plug?

[Ronnie]

What kind of canister a by pass set up?

[Ralph Moore]

Well, it's off a 1950's army truck, but similar to the original Ford units except firewall mounted. I'll post a pic as soon as I can.

[GOSFAST]

I just want to add, while the block is being machined, it's fairly simple to get all the passageways drilled and tapped. Not a real big deal!

This eliminates that "special" adapter with the "O" ring built in!

Once you machine the "top" access holes you still have the factory location for the pressure guage. You end up with 3 functional holes and ALL are at the rear and pretty much out-of-sight for the most part.

With respect to the issue here, the machine shop should have explained the function of the entire procedure AND made it clear to the customer just how to set up (plumb) the system??

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a few shots of the lines and the filter mounted in the Merc! You cant see the line for the guage, but it is just below the 2 filter lines below/behind the left side head!

[John Kennedy]

This is all really great info! Would the 59A be the same? Mine's a '48 block.

[Ralph Moore]

Here's the filter I plan to use(will be chromed eventually). and John I have a 59 block and it has a boss on the back of the block. Looks like the spot for the extra hole for the full flow system.

[Henry/Kokomo]

Ralph - You're right about the boss being the right place to drill the extra hole. Subject to more informed opinions, I would think the filter canister you plan to use would need to have larger inlet and outlet ports installed for a full flow setup. If you're going to have it chromed, that would cover the welding used in the modification. Yet another $.02 worth.

[OLD...BILL]

YES it can be made to work BUT..B..U..T.. John Kennedy, yes; on the 59 block works best, Ralph Moore, yes can be made to work, Henry Kokomo, Is right larger fittings, in and out "" BUT "" the filter elment, it's self come in question, could it stand the pressure of a full flow system ?? Henrys original felter was a "drip system" at best, but it dose work as I change the oil and filter on the old 9N, tractor it is full of crud, and the oil is clean...and I fullie understand how you want to keep the under the hood looking original, I try to do the same, and some chrome too, don't give up uo the 95 % full flow, and Hey John " JM ..35..Sedan .. are you going to jump in here and show us how and where you mounted you full flow on the lower, left side of the engine, down low and out of sight. also in cool air flow area too. he is not dense, and an engineer, may me slow on house rules, but once he see it, it gets fixed,,, hee.. hee ...I do hope we can all learn for this... sad. ....OLD...BILL