The Ford Barn

miskealp · 04-30-2020, 01:50 PM

Just tried an interesting balance idea. Flywheels are changed over the years, engines worked over and over, clutches and trans, etc. Balancing is lost and put up with unless your able to afford machine shop costs. I decided to try this. Open your throwout bearing and clutch cover. Your clutch preasure plate has holes for the plate springs. Take a lead plug or bolt that fits into hole about 1 1/2 inch long, I used flat lead rolled up about 2 oz and rolled it to friction fit and when the clutch pedel is pushed it just touched the plate. Rev up engine and move plug around to different holes till best location is found. Mark that location with punch or paint. Now leave your cover plate off and go for a drive.Check and stop engine couple of times and remove 1/4 oz or so pieces off untill you notice you went too far. You may want to try next hole beside either way as well. Make new plug with right weight that you have to squeeze into hole or you can fasten equal steel weight onto clutch. I still have lead in mine, works great. I was lucky and 1.5 oz was good. You might need more or less.
Thanks for the help I get from others.

History · 05-01-2020, 07:07 AM

Seems like an awesome (simple) fix. Unless it could come lose and become a projectile I can't see anything it could hurt? Experts please, what are your thoughts?

old31 · 05-01-2020, 08:35 AM

Interesting, good idea, but I would be really worried that the centrifugal force would send things flying.

john charlton · 05-01-2020, 05:02 PM

I have had the same idea for years I think I might have posted it a while back . My plan was to add an extra washer or two under a pressure plate bolt and then trial and error etc etc . Maybe I would use adjacent bolts in groups of three with up to two washers so have a group of six added washers .I reasoned that the rotating mass cannot be very far out of balance as Henry paid attention to balancing from the start . I just want to move my vibration away from 30 MPH as my rear view mirror dissolves into a blurr !!! I would vary the weight added and mark my start point and then rotate around the cicumference and see if I can move or even mostly remove the vibration .But like most things I just dont seem to get around to it .

John in Spring April Showers in May Suffolk County England .

Anteek29 · 05-01-2020, 05:21 PM

Sounds like alot of effort for a 'Hit and Miss' approach.

ursus · 05-01-2020, 06:55 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by old31

Interesting, good idea, but I would be really worried that the centrifugal force would send things flying.

OP QUOTE: "Now leave your cover plate off and go for a drive".

Might want to keep that cove plate on?

Wick · 05-02-2020, 04:59 AM

Put #1 at TDC then add your weight. Next stop add at #1 bdc add weight.
This way the crank weights are at the top and bottom of the throw.
Stick on wheel weights come in a pack at the parts store. Very simple.
Wick

Tinbasher · 05-02-2020, 08:19 AM

I have a vibration, comes on about 1/4 throttle. I think this is worth a try. If this works then I'll bond the weight to the pressure plate with some structural adhesive. Interesting.

Bob Bidonde · 05-02-2020, 09:00 AM

The so called "front engine mount" is actually vibration damper, and should be adjusted to change the engine's vibration frequency to a level less annoying. Putting a relatively small amount of weight on a huge mass such as the clutch + flywheel is of little value.
Tightening the front vibration damper is good for eliminating clutch chatter and making the engines vibration feel and sound better.

Cape Codder · 05-02-2020, 09:32 AM

So Bob, how do you adjust the "front engine mount"? I have never heard that was possible.

Bob Bidonde · 05-02-2020, 09:45 AM

I tighten the nut on the stud of the front damper (AKA front mount), and then test drive the car. What you seek is a nut tightness that changes the vibration / clutch chatter to a condition that you can live with. It is impossible to stop the vibration of the Model A's engine, but you can tune it.

The diagram is of the seesaw configuration of the Model A's engine, flywheel, clutch & transmission. Note that the rear engine mounts are the pivot of the seesaw, and the front set of springs is the damper.

The principal vibration is from the reciprocating vertical motion of the engine (tuning fork effect). Tightening the front spring set has the effect of increasing the stiffness of the front support, so it changes the engine's reciprocating frequency.

daren007 · 05-02-2020, 11:15 AM

If you use stick on weights you are sitting on a hand grenade.

05-01-2020, 07:07 AM	#2
History Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: NC Mountains Posts: 689	Re: Back to engine vibration Seems like an awesome (simple) fix. Unless it could come lose and become a projectile I can't see anything it could hurt? Experts please, what are your thoughts?

05-01-2020, 08:35 AM	#3
old31 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 2,094	Re: Back to engine vibration Interesting, good idea, but I would be really worried that the centrifugal force would send things flying.

05-01-2020, 05:02 PM	#4
john charlton Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,304	Re: Back to engine vibration I have had the same idea for years I think I might have posted it a while back . My plan was to add an extra washer or two under a pressure plate bolt and then trial and error etc etc . Maybe I would use adjacent bolts in groups of three with up to two washers so have a group of six added washers .I reasoned that the rotating mass cannot be very far out of balance as Henry paid attention to balancing from the start . I just want to move my vibration away from 30 MPH as my rear view mirror dissolves into a blurr !!! I would vary the weight added and mark my start point and then rotate around the cicumference and see if I can move or even mostly remove the vibration .But like most things I just dont seem to get around to it . John in Spring April Showers in May Suffolk County England .

05-01-2020, 05:21 PM	#5
Anteek29 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Santa Maria, CA Posts: 985	Re: Back to engine vibration Sounds like alot of effort for a 'Hit and Miss' approach. __________________ Alan 1929 Special Coupe 1941 Pick-Up 1955 Victoria

05-02-2020, 04:59 AM	#7
Wick Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gwynn's Island Va Posts: 1,386	Re: Back to engine vibration Put #1 at TDC then add your weight. Next stop add at #1 bdc add weight. This way the crank weights are at the top and bottom of the throw. Stick on wheel weights come in a pack at the parts store. Very simple. Wick

04-30-2020, 01:50 PM	#1
miskealp Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2020 Posts: 1	Back to engine vibration Just tried an interesting balance idea. Flywheels are changed over the years, engines worked over and over, clutches and trans, etc. Balancing is lost and put up with unless your able to afford machine shop costs. I decided to try this. Open your throwout bearing and clutch cover. Your clutch preasure plate has holes for the plate springs. Take a lead plug or bolt that fits into hole about 1 1/2 inch long, I used flat lead rolled up about 2 oz and rolled it to friction fit and when the clutch pedel is pushed it just touched the plate. Rev up engine and move plug around to different holes till best location is found. Mark that location with punch or paint. Now leave your cover plate off and go for a drive.Check and stop engine couple of times and remove 1/4 oz or so pieces off untill you notice you went too far. You may want to try next hole beside either way as well. Make new plug with right weight that you have to squeeze into hole or you can fasten equal steel weight onto clutch. I still have lead in mine, works great. I was lucky and 1.5 oz was good. You might need more or less. Thanks for the help I get from others.

05-02-2020, 08:19 AM	#8
Tinbasher Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Innisfil, Ontario Canada Posts: 1,174	Re: Back to engine vibration I have a vibration, comes on about 1/4 throttle. I think this is worth a try. If this works then I'll bond the weight to the pressure plate with some structural adhesive. Interesting.

05-02-2020, 09:00 AM	#9
Bob Bidonde Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 3,464	Re: Back to engine vibration The so called "front engine mount" is actually vibration damper, and should be adjusted to change the engine's vibration frequency to a level less annoying. Putting a relatively small amount of weight on a huge mass such as the clutch + flywheel is of little value. Tightening the front vibration damper is good for eliminating clutch chatter and making the engines vibration feel and sound better. __________________ Bob Bidonde

05-02-2020, 09:32 AM	#10
Cape Codder Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,261	Re: Back to engine vibration So Bob, how do you adjust the "front engine mount"? I have never heard that was possible.

05-02-2020, 11:15 AM	#12
daren007 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Saint Cloud Mn Posts: 745	Re: Back to engine vibration If you use stick on weights you are sitting on a hand grenade.