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04-25-2016, 12:31 PM | #1 |
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three flathead model questions
I picked up three flathead motors and request your input on the best candidate to use in a 1940 Ford Deluxe Coupe. Not looking to hot rod it but drive the heck out of it. Keeping the 6volt system. This motor would be the only item not original. Please correct anything I get wrong.
A) Will any modifications be needed to the car to install these? B) Will the clutch linkage fit? I did get two transmissions w/ these motors #99As21385 the #9's are the straight side font w/ side links which is what I need. C) Will the driveshaft need to be altered? Motor#1 = 8BA (E211) from what I know this is a 1949 w/ 255 cu.i. 3.125 B. x 4 Storke Motor#2 = EAB it has a capital F on a slant to the left of EAB and 32R to the lower right. Also has the #17 above the flywheel. Only thing I was told it is a truck motor. Any specs you can share would be great. Motor#3 = EAB w/ a capital D on its side after the B The other side reads EAB6050D. Again the only info is a truck motor. This has the #13 above the flywheel. |
04-25-2016, 12:39 PM | #2 |
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Re: three flathead model questions
Photos would be helpful. Things like heads can be easily changed
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04-25-2016, 07:09 PM | #3 |
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Re: three flathead model questions
The numbers you have are for cylinder heads...these are interchangeable between all these '49-53 engines, and MANY of them are of mixed parts from having been processed by bulk rebuilders. There is no good external way to determine actual content of the motors and to a considerable extent it doesn't really matter...you want to assess them as candidates for rebuilding if not running or by how well they run if they are ready to use.
The 8BA if really that would be a 100 hp 239 from '49-50, the other 2 would be EAB '52-3 239's rated slightly higher than 100 HP due to slightly more compression and cam. Any could have been built as 255's by a previous owner, but if as labeled they are all 239. Below the heads greatest difference IF 100% stock would be that the '49 has hardened valve seats, the '52's do not but were built with valve rotators. If to be rebuilt, you want whichever is uncracked. All would need some Merc or Truck bell, clutch, and pan parts to fit a '40, but if they are attached to 99 transmissions it would seem they are already at least partly adapted. |
04-25-2016, 07:26 PM | #4 |
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Re: three flathead model questions
Motor #1. 8BAs were 3 3/4" stroke. 4 inch cranks are Mercury.
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3 pedals, 3 gears, no valve-covers.. Now THAT is a hot rod !! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmwwB34vxJE |
04-26-2016, 05:18 AM | #5 |
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Re: three flathead model questions
All three might be candidates . . . or none of them . . . all depends on the condition inside. What you haven't shared with us is if you're going to rebuild an engine - taking the best combination of parts from the three, or are expecting to just put one of these in? It will all come down to the condition and WHAT assortment of parts you have and those that you want on it.
You mentioned you wanted to "drive the heck out of it" - to me, this means taking the engines completely apart and rebuilding a good, solid, reliable flathead - where you know the work and parts that went into it. It could be as simple as a gasket set, new pumps, rebuilt distributor - and good to go (though I doubt it). Things to think about: 1) You can make a 49-53 engine LOOK like a 1940 engine (if that is a goal). It will take a different set of heads, water pumps, camshaft, crank/cam gears, distributor, intake, fan, generator, etc.. This is how I'd approach it - so the car looks like an original 1940 (or very close). 2) If you're going to be rebuilding the best of them, then it is really time to get started taking them all apart, having the blocks cleaned/inspected, etc.. 3) If you want to potentially reduce the amount of overall work, pull the heads on all three - see what condition they appear to be in right from the start. Then, take the ones that looks the best and clean the areas between the valves/cylinders and carefully look for cracks. If you don't find any obvious ones, then you may have a good engine to rebuild. 4) Then you'll need to have the parts cleaned, magnafluxed, maybe sonic-tested, etc - to really understand the condition of the blocks, crankshafts, rods, etc.. There are no magic answers available on the outside . . . it all comes down to what is on the inside, the quality of any prior work done and what you're willing to invest in time, work and money. B&S |
04-27-2016, 11:53 AM | #6 |
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Re: three flathead model questions
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04-27-2016, 11:56 AM | #7 |
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Re: three flathead model questions
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