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Old 08-26-2021, 09:08 PM   #1
Newc
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Default Burned '32 PU came to new home today

Won the salvage sale on a friends burned '32 PU. Thinking of taking it toward a judgeable V8 standard, it was a 12V driver/ show PU. Anyway some photos for you folks. Seems he did have a fire extinguisher, but it went 'poof' and nothing happened. as old ones and sometime new ones do. they gotta be shook up ect after time. The powder settles and gets solid.
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Old 08-26-2021, 09:21 PM   #2
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Default Re: Burned '32 PU came to new home today




New project - 1932 Ford Pick-Up - Congratulations.
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Old 08-26-2021, 09:51 PM   #3
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Default Re: Burned '32 PU came to new home today

While a tragedy, that really could have been much worse. Good luck with your endeavor.

There was a thread on the H.A.M.B. a few years ago by a guy who did a '40 coupe that had been burned much, much worse. As I remember, he had to do a lot to the metal to get into a condition where i could even be worked. If you check it out, it may contain some good information for you.
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Old 08-27-2021, 11:42 AM   #4
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There was a thread on the H.A.M.B. a few years ago by a guy who did a '40 coupe that had been burned much, much worse. As I remember, he had to do a lot to the metal to get into a condition where i could even be worked. If you check it out, it may contain some good information for you.
That was Tom Medley's '40, sometimes better-known as the creator of "Hot Rod Magazines" famous "Stroker McGurk". Medley's editing career with Hot Rod Mag and Petersen Publishing went back to the magazine's 2nd issue in 1948. He later became the publisher of "Rod & Custom Magazine".





He was starting his iconic '40 Coupe in the garage one day in 2011. It backfired, and caught fire. At 91 years of age, Tom wasn't able to get the car out of the fire. The car and garage were totaled. Several "shakers" in the Hot Rod "Community" came together, organized a plan, amassed $30K in donations, and through the volunteer efforts of several shops in the industry, Tom's '40 was presented to him in pristine condition again less than two years later.





BEFORE the fire!




AFTER The Fire








And AFTER The Restoration












.
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Old 08-27-2021, 11:49 AM   #5
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Default Re: Burned '32 PU came to new home today

Nice truck....I also hope you are planning to ditch those Ugly ass seal beam head light conversions too!!! I think I'd ditch them before I do anything else!!!! Good luck on the rebuild!!!
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Old 08-27-2021, 12:16 PM   #6
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Old 08-27-2021, 01:01 PM   #7
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Re-wire it, get it running and drive it. Now you've got real "patina". Paul in CT
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Old 08-27-2021, 07:20 PM   #8
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Default Re: Burned '32 PU came to new home today

Thats a good story the 40 ,I think a Donner body would have been needed ?
Nice truck to worth doing ,
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Old 08-28-2021, 09:34 AM   #9
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Is that a 4 Cyl Pick up or has the engine been changed like the 40??
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Old 08-28-2021, 12:27 PM   #10
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beautiful car but where’s the flat head ��
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Old 08-28-2021, 10:44 PM   #11
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Default Re: Burned '32 PU came to new home today

I think it’ll buff out!
But seriously, that does not look too bad, I would definitely tackle that job.
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Old 08-29-2021, 10:49 AM   #12
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Default Re: Burned '32 PU came to new home today

I wish you luck, fire jobs are quite a tackle. Nice looking truck. I can't imagine the pain and anguish of the former owner. I'm guilty myself of not carrying a halon type extinguisher.
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Old 08-29-2021, 04:00 PM   #13
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I wish you luck, fire jobs are quite a tackle. Nice looking truck. I can't imagine the pain and anguish of the former owner. I'm guilty myself of not carrying a halon type extinguisher.
Can you still get Halon extinguishers? Can't find them in this idiotic state of California. Won't be long before that ban old cars.
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Old 08-29-2021, 09:20 PM   #14
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Can you still get Halon extinguishers? Can't find them in this idiotic state of California. Won't be long before that ban old cars.
Maybe look at an Element E50 Fire Suppression extinguisher, been looking to get a couple to put in the car and the kitchen instead of the dry powder extinguishers. Pricey; but after dealing with the mess some vandals made inside several truck cabs at work, I think they may be worthwhile.
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Old 08-30-2021, 12:18 AM   #15
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Jay Leno demonstrated the new gas type fire extinguishers- Looks like a big road flare and the smoke puts out fires. Newc
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Old 08-30-2021, 12:58 AM   #16
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Nice acquisition. I ran around for years with a model a and the gas tank in the dash. Things happen I guess.
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Old 09-05-2021, 01:46 PM   #17
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Well a week or so of filthy/stinky work and here are some photos for you all. I don't want the stink inside this Winter, so a rush to strip/clean it up. Household cleaners with bleach cuts the soot and so does 'GOOP' [abrasive tho]. The High$ engine will need a tear down. Trans is ok. Sand blasting burned sheet metal is future. First reconstruction is the frame paint-still straight.!! Last photo shows a possible culprit- rubber hose from tank to electric pump [for priming?] and rubber hose to fuel pump [burned up]. Excessive prime , then a backfire. Same situation that caught the '40 cpe?? Later Newc
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Old 09-05-2021, 04:55 PM   #18
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Can you still get Halon extinguishers? Can't find them in this idiotic state of California. Won't be long before that ban old cars.
I looked online and seems you still can buy, but expensive. I didn't look to hard, best looking price wise seems to $120 for 2.5 lbs.
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Old 09-05-2021, 05:15 PM   #19
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Can you still get Halon extinguishers? Can't find them in this idiotic state of California. Won't be long before that ban old cars.
California Proposition 65 Cancer Warning:

'Caution: living may be hazardous to your long term health. Eventually, and often over time, death has been known to occur....'
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Old 09-06-2021, 10:33 AM   #20
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Dale, save that "banger" motor. That little pickup looks like a great project.
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Old 09-06-2021, 10:39 AM   #21
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Dale, save that "banger" motor. That little pickup looks like a great project.
Yeah, maybe you and "Sugarmaker" can make a deal.
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Old 09-09-2021, 02:45 PM   #22
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Hi all; Here's the latest work on the 'Burn out'. Pulled the cab gingerly to save the good paint- it's going to a body shop after cleaning for paint 'repair' not a full paint job. Time now to get it inside and be able to move it in and out for work/blasting; depending on changing weather. Am going to try to use correct fasteners on rebuild. Hate those fiberglass firewall pads tho. Have in 'stock' another B motor- stock babbit type. Newc
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Old 09-10-2021, 07:34 AM   #23
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You are moving along in a hurry! At this rate you will be driving by spring!
It's looking good also. Dale
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Old 09-10-2021, 09:00 AM   #24
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Newc,
Send me the Ford mech fuel pump....I'll build it for free ,then you can ditch that pos elec pump.
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Last edited by Charlie ny; 09-10-2021 at 09:01 AM. Reason: changed I to I'll
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Old 09-10-2021, 12:46 PM   #25
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Newc,
Send me the Ford mech fuel pump....I'll build it for free ,then you can ditch that pos elec pump.
Charlie ny
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Dang, doesn't get any better than that.
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Old 09-24-2021, 08:37 PM   #26
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Well, here is the latest on the burned '32 PU. Sand blasted the front chassis, etch primed, and epoxy black paint in two days. Lots of crawling around on the carpet pieces. Now reassembly can begin. A stock new babbit bearing engine is going back in, and simple stock wiring. The body parts are back from a local blaster, and the cab I blasted except the top and back outside; will try to save that finish. Local body shops were no help- ran from this job and I found a one man outfit, who will do the cab and small parts [hopefully]. Thinking of a black firewall. I even found the correct Vin [was not used]. The correct headlights were black steel [commercial] so I saved the bug-eyed ones for 'rockfla', and all the 'car' parts are coming off except the cowl light turn signals? These local paint shops are sooo arrogant that I am determined to build a booth someday. later Newc photos attached below ooops!

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Old 09-24-2021, 08:38 PM   #27
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Photos
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Old 09-24-2021, 11:41 PM   #28
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Go! go! go!
Looking good!
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Old 09-25-2021, 03:30 AM   #29
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Newc, the damage appears (purely from looking at the pictures) to be relatively superficial. While I am pleased that the truck is being repaired by a barner and we are able to watch the progress, It makes me wonder why it was sold and not repaired by the original owner.
But nonetheless, you are making great progress on what will no doubt turn out to be a very nice pickup.
Mart.
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Old 09-25-2021, 04:57 AM   #30
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Are you planning to ditch the cowl lights ? To me thay look out of place as trucks didn't have them.
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Old 09-26-2021, 02:17 AM   #31
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I'll echo Mart's comment. Thought etch and epoxy don't like each other? You're making quick strides!
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Old 11-15-2021, 08:45 PM   #32
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Well; Here we are in November '21. The sheet metal is in Body Shop Jail, so I am going after everything else. The new engine went in today. firewall, I painted, so lots of mechanicals todo. Starter/alternator[12V] were replaced. Fire went thru a tiny hole in starter and got the armature! Need to find an old fashioned radiator shop to check my spare, and wiring came from Tyree. It should be a driver this Winter. Photos Newc
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Old 11-15-2021, 10:04 PM   #33
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Halogen extinguishers are still available in California,just more expensive. However, the cost could be less than repairing the damage left by other chemical extinguishers plus the cost of fire damage.
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Old 11-15-2021, 10:36 PM   #34
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Just catching up with deuce lovers comment about cowl lamps; in some jurisdictions outside North America required separate parking, in this case cowl, lamps on all vehicles. In North America both the deluxe panel trucks (all wheel bases) and late station wagons were equipped with the all-stainless steel variety used on passenger cars, but elsewhere where cowl lamps were required on all commercial vehicles and big trucks, the lamp housing was black-painted plain steel and only the rim was stainless steel. Both types of cowl lamps are listed in the U.S. '32 chassis parts catalog.

Newc,

For what it is worth, all North American '32 firewalls were originally painted black.

Last edited by DavidG; 11-16-2021 at 11:03 AM. Reason: redundant wording
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Old 11-16-2021, 03:21 AM   #35
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I take that back.I now remember seeing a'32 deluxe panel with stainless cowl lights back in the mid 1970's.It also had the engine turned instrument panel.It belonged to Neal East.
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Old 11-16-2021, 07:10 AM   #36
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At least the firewall did it's job. The interior was not damaged much.
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Old 11-16-2021, 07:38 AM   #37
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Newc,
Your doing a awesome job bringing the fire damaged deuce pickup back to life. When I saw the serial number written on the frame, I was wondering if it was correct? Mine is a similar AAB number in the larger truck version. I am taking notes! Your doing all the right things! The results of your work look very good! You can be proud of bringing this back into service. Was this a electrical fire?
The painting process requires some skills and equipment. but from the look around your shop, I bet you could do that also!
For some reason I have this feeling your not near by to Erie PA?
Really enjoying your thread.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 12-18-2021, 08:44 PM   #38
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Dec 18th '21 Cold/dark outside- shop is 55F with stove going. Made some mechanical progress and firewall is going on this weekend. Wiring, instruments also. Cab /parts are in 'Body Shop Jail' I visit them regularly for encouragement. Third Gen got a good order from me-so no more hardware store stuff. This is the second '32 Pu of this color I have owned. Never had room for this project, very tight in here. Yes; it's staying 12 Volt. Photos Newc
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Old 12-18-2021, 08:57 PM   #39
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Old 12-19-2021, 08:20 PM   #40
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Terrible storm outside-so keeping at the '32. Got the firewall ON. and permanently too- The ABS firewall pads are backordered until Mid-Jan 2022
[they moved to AR from CA.] Lots of little stuff now. Newc
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Old 12-19-2021, 08:52 PM   #41
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Thanks for sharing. You are doing a good job.

thanks,

jim
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Old 12-19-2021, 09:45 PM   #42
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Great work so far, take your time and get all those little details correct while you have it apart. It will be worth all the work and you can sit back and drive drive drive!
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Old 12-19-2021, 11:26 PM   #43
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Looking good! However, you left yourself a bit of a challenge by not installing the accelerator pedal/cross shaft assembly on the firewall before mounting it on the frame.
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Old 12-20-2021, 08:05 AM   #44
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Nice work & what a GR8 truck it will be when fiinished.
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Old 12-20-2021, 03:05 PM   #45
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These local paint shops are sooo arrogant that I am determined to build a booth someday.
I agree. Arrogant and rude to boot. I've been trying to get my '54 painted for quite awhile. Face to face they are on board. Two have promised to come by to give me an assessment and estimate. They never showed and don't return my calls. In desperation I contacted KCs Paint Shop, the guy who used to paint for the Gas Monkey Garage on Fast & Loud. They don't answer the phone and don't return e-mails. Another shop owner told me he makes more money doing insurance work than he can make doing full paint jobs.

I'm in central TX and can travel.
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Old 12-20-2021, 04:34 PM   #46
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I agree. Arrogant and rude to boot. I've been trying to get my '54 painted for quite awhile. Face to face they are on board. Two have promised to come by to give me an assessment and estimate. They never showed and don't return my calls. In desperation I contacted KCs Paint Shop, the guy who used to paint for the Gas Monkey Garage on Fast & Loud. They don't answer the phone and don't return e-mails. Another shop owner told me he makes more money doing insurance work than he can make doing full paint jobs.

I'm in central TX and can travel.
It's not arrogance or being rude. How many "free estimates" do you think they've given out only to never see the potential customer again? That takes time away from their work. No one likes the truth when shops charge in the $65-100 an hour for labor. They just complain when they get quoted for $20,000 paint jobs.

Insurance and warranty jobs will always pay better than custom work. That type of work is very clear on the rates that can be charged and the time it takes to do the job. A custom, full bodywork and repaint might take 1000-2000 hours, you never know what you're getting into until you're there. You'll tie up a couple of staff members for half a year doing a car! Those same staff could have done 40 or more insurance jobs and made a ton more money.
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Old 12-20-2021, 05:14 PM   #47
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"We'll paint any car for $29.99" I've had several 'drivers' done like that- A gallon of single stage Urethane with hardner is $125 locally. My neighbor built a plastic sheet tent and did a beautiful job on his PU this Summer. What ever is your requirement. Newc
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Old 12-20-2021, 11:00 PM   #48
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It's not arrogance or being rude. How many "free estimates" do you think they've given out only to never see the potential customer again?
Saying you will be there and then not showing up or even calling isn't rude? Only having an answering machine handle incoming calls and giving a e-mail address then not returning an e-mail saying you are booked up or you aren't interested isn't rude? Free estimates are something that insurance companies need, competition is fierce and sources for collision repair are numerous. A custom paint job by a skilled painter is something quite different.
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Old 12-27-2021, 04:45 PM   #49
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Dec 27th, 2021 Good News- the firewall pad[s] have arrived ahead of schedule from Quietride Solutions. Great product- ABS flexible with the 'chicken track' pattern. Foil backing with nice padding. 4 cyl pad on right- V8 on the left [other project]. Now the instruments and wiring can began assembly. Engine installation about complete- the 4 cyl is much easier to work around than a V8. My painter has promised parts in Jan and It will now keep me busy. We got 6" snow and more coming. Photos--
Newc
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Old 12-27-2021, 05:04 PM   #50
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Are you going to use the grille , or would you sell it? I bought half a hood from you! Thank you, Roger
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Old 12-27-2021, 08:02 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newc View Post
Dec 27th, 2021 Good News- the firewall pad[s] have arrived ahead of schedule from Quietride Solutions. Great product- ABS flexible with the 'chicken track' pattern. Foil backing with nice padding. 4 cyl pad on right- V8 on the left [other project]. Now the instruments and wiring can began assembly. Engine installation about complete- the 4 cyl is much easier to work around than a V8. My painter has promised parts in Jan and It will now keep me busy. We got 6" snow and more coming. Photos--
Newc




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Old 12-30-2021, 04:26 PM   #52
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Looks quite saveable...
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Old 12-30-2021, 10:17 PM   #53
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Spent the days installing the firewall pad- doing firewall grommets and the starter switch. Painted the instrument tower and will start assembling the instruments. small problems along the way. BIG question? The firewall pad is punched for the instrument tower bolts and so the instrument tower will sandwich the pad against the firewall? There is about 1/4" to 3/8' of material to be compressed then?I would expect the 'tower' to be solid against the firewall. Can't remember how the old junkers were done, that I disassembled?
ALWAYS install these pads BEFORE installing firewall to chassis! No one told me! Newc
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Old 12-31-2021, 02:13 AM   #54
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Yes the pad with its insulation is sandwiched between the dash tunnel and firewall.Here is a pic of an original with the dash tunnel removed.This cowl section is near me and the original pad is just about mint.Been trying to buy it for years and yes its a 4 cyl.You can see the coil and 4 cyl pedal.Vibration damper is still intact also.
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Old 12-31-2021, 04:32 AM   #55
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Can I offer an observation?
The stock original one Deuce posted above shows the pad sandwiched between the instrument tunnel flange and the firewall, but can you see that the tunnel flange actually sits on 6 protrusions that stick up from the firewall. The pad has big holes here so at these six points the tunnel bolts direct to the firewall. The stock pad is compressible enough to squash down in between the protrusions to allow the direct bolt up.

Unless the new pad has clearance holes to go around the protrusions and is compressible enough in between, then it might need more clearancing to allow a direct bolt up.

There is very little clearance between the instrument panel and the dash. It might not tolerate standing off the firewall due to an over thick (or under compressible) firewall pad.

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Old 12-31-2021, 04:43 AM   #56
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Mart, I can't remember since its been a few years since I took that pic. What you see is the raised stamped impression of the firewall. So the tunnel tightens right up against them.Lookt a 5th pic in post #49.Sheldon

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Old 12-31-2021, 05:37 AM   #57
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Yes, Sheldon, that's what I was trying to say. There is a direct bolt up at those six points.
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Old 12-31-2021, 12:53 PM   #58
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Sheldon and Mart,


As Mart indicates, all that originally existed between the legs of the instrument panel and the six attachment points on the firewall is the thickness of insulator skin without any padding. The padding must be removed from those six points on the reproduction pad assembly.
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Old 12-31-2021, 02:19 PM   #59
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Thanks everyone; gotta get the new '32 books, but you all have been a big help. Happy New Year. Newc
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Old 12-31-2021, 06:16 PM   #60
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That would "rip your underwear" but it could have been worse. A fire extinguisher is something I lack, this is quite frankly scary and I am going to go out and get one. Good luck with the rebuild it will be nice when done.

GB
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Old 12-31-2021, 11:03 PM   #61
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Fire damage did not look too bad. When I first saw the post I was expecting something that had been totally roasted in a garage fire! Nice to see it being returned to it's former glory rather than using the fire as an excuse to put an LS1 into it.
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Old 01-02-2022, 08:43 PM   #62
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Fitting the 'Quietride' Firewall pad is a bit of Work. Should be done on a bench.
The pad has to be trimmed on the outside edge and some of the predrilled holes miss somewhat. The real challenge is the instrument tunnel mounting! All the padding must be removed at the two mount areas- in order for the tunnel to fit against the firewall-either solid to the firewall or only compressing the pad face material. 'Quietride' has drilled large holes in the pad face for the firewall mount points. I used a slow turning cut off wheel to cut the insulation- it has aluminum foil layered in it. Of course I had installed the pad before learning about fitting it. Photos show some of the insulation removal. It seems to be good now. Newc
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Old 01-03-2022, 08:31 PM   #63
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Work'n on the instrument panel-It was seriously burned up by the fiberglass firewall pad. The 80 mph speedo is a reproduction works in an original SW case. The only way I could get a good 80mph. The amp gage and hydro fuel are originals from my 'stash'. Everything I found lately is junk. On the bench you see what I have to work with-lots of worn out parts. Next will be the instrument 'tunnel' install and new wiring harness. Dash light switch/light are the new repro and the late commercials had them, I understand. Throttle, 4cyl choke - ect are next. Everyone wants to hear it run. My painter gets a 'visit' tomorrow! photos again
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Old 01-04-2022, 06:29 PM   #64
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Default Re: Burned '32 PU came to new home today

Looking good, we can't wait to see it run as well.
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Old 01-05-2022, 08:46 AM   #65
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Default Re: Burned '32 PU came to new home today

Newc,
Dash refurb looks wonderful! Nice to have a stash!
Looking forward to the updates on the 32! Your moving along nicely!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 01-13-2022, 08:59 PM   #66
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I 've been watching 'Sugarmaker's post for location/routing tips. Latest challenge is the 4 cyl choke control for a commercial '32. Seems there are three different choke controls [lengths] and my '32 commercial is by itself. Totally burned up of course. So I have to shorten an available '32 passenger unit. These are crimped at each end and the 'cable' is a triple wound spring. The control has to push/pull and rotate the mixture control.
I opened the crimp at the carb end and proceeded to shorten both the housing and inner cable according to need. I then used silver solder to reattach the mixture operating end. Not all that simple, but it worked. My result is not perfect. Next time I would trial fit Before cutting to length. Also the rotated word 'choke' on the knob should index with a closed mixture [I missed by 90 degrees!] The housing should be longer also- just enough 'cable' exposed to allow the choke lever on the carb to move. These assemblies are really hard to find. I use my only 'brown' knob unit. It works-I'm done-moving on. Photos Newc
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Old 02-04-2022, 04:27 PM   #67
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Terrible wiring problem. Sent me a V8 harness and B harnesses are 6wks back!!
So I decided to 'rebuild' the burned up '32 Amp gage. "32s used a 20 amp gage, but the replacement unit from the Model A outfits is 30 amp [better for me] The new units do not have mounting brackets and must be made to fit your original mount bracket. I had to cut off the rear of the original mount bucket and shorten the new chrome bezel. It all pressed together gently and I had a new 30 amp gage. United Pacific makes the new gages [from Bert's A Parts]. Save those old ratty gage mounts as they can be reused with the new gages. All you need is the brass mount body and the original chrome bezel. Now to find the tinted mylar for gage lighting. Photos Newc
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Old 02-05-2022, 01:09 AM   #68
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I have used the colored plastic folder tabs that Office Depot sells for the Mylar gauge lighting.
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Old 02-05-2022, 08:37 PM   #69
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Newc,
You did a great job building a new cable.
Here is a couple shots of mine as I got the truck. I think IIRC David may have noted the carb on this B engine may be a later 33 or 34. Anyway I am still using this GAV as it works pretty good but does stick when turned too far closed for the fuel/ air mix.
Hope these might help, even though I know your done with this portion of the build.






Here is one of my issues. My started cable was not working, rusted inside the spiral housing. Part of the end broke off. just enough left to start it. Not sure if there is another working cable out there somewhere??


I thought of trying to rebuild it with a new cable, to allow me to use the original starter pull button. But was not sure of the process.


Your doing a great job on the gages! You have great skills!

Regards,
Chris
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Old 02-05-2022, 10:07 PM   #70
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The inner wire of the starter cable is crimped on the end of the knob shaft; Open the crimp [grinding]half way remove old wire and install new wire with silver solder. It will be plenty strong. Must be clean tho. If the outer spiral winding housing is bad also replace with a solder joint at the original mount area. . If solder gets in wire hole a long drill will gently remove it. Seebee in Pendelton, Or is doing a '32 BB also. Same problems. Save those 'chocholate' Knobs, repops wrong brown.
I just got my wiring from Yesterday Wiring and it is Perfect!! Now they are my sole source as recommended by others here. later Newc
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Old 02-06-2022, 07:43 AM   #71
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Newc,
Thanks for the tips and trick to a cable rebuild. I have spoken with SeeBee on other things. Yes he is in the midst of a 32 Big truck rebuild too! Good to know about wiring!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 02-24-2022, 05:33 PM   #72
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Well time for an update. Some parts are getting out of the paint shop and that is what I really needed. Assembling the engine, wiring, and instruments has been a challenge, but nothing like having a bit of color back on the pickup. Essentially only the bare cab is left in the paint shop. I would like to have it judged at the NW nationals in July [touring commercial], but there maybe a conflict. Also I hear that the event is filling up fast. All the work done during the shut downs- lots of 'new' cars. I even found some 'Eaton' Gas caps that are almost correct for the elusive '32 Commercial rad caps. The new paint is supposed to match the old, but not in the photos? Photos- fellows Newc
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Old 02-24-2022, 05:46 PM   #73
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Newc,
Its looking great! The details and the color! I am a newbie on most of this. Is the alternator Ok in the touring judging?
Going to be a great looking truck!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 02-24-2022, 09:28 PM   #74
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Yes I agree, looks really nice, take your time. Fingers crossed the paint will match up. Can't wait to see more pics once it's all done.
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Old 02-25-2022, 04:37 PM   #75
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nice truck congratulation.
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Old 02-26-2022, 12:30 PM   #76
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Well time for an update. Some parts are getting out of the paint shop and that is what I really needed. Assembling the engine, wiring, and instruments has been a challenge, but nothing like having a bit of color back on the pickup. Essentially only the bare cab is left in the paint shop. I would like to have it judged at the NW nationals in July [touring commercial], but there maybe a conflict. Also I hear that the event is filling up fast. All the work done during the shut downs- lots of 'new' cars. I even found some 'Eaton' Gas caps that are almost correct for the elusive '32 Commercial rad caps. The new paint is supposed to match the old, but not in the photos? Photos- fellows Newc
Dale , for Wenatchee you can sign up on-line and it's quick and easy. got mine done already. Hope you can make it.
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Old 02-26-2022, 02:02 PM   #77
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Reply; The Wenatchee sign up requires vehicle vin, and insurance policy for your entry and I'm not there yet. May have to fake it as the ins [requires photos of vehicle inside and out]??will cover the Pu as is, maybe?. Newc
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Old 03-17-2022, 08:08 PM   #78
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Got into the NW Nationals! yippee!! New goal now. getting close- Painter may have cab done this next week. Engine -carb is cooked- found another all new- so good there. Rebuilt fuel pump does not fit- 'clocking' is wrong and CAN NOT be corrected. The discovery is the base. Most 4cyl pump bases are double drilled-12 threaded holes so the input/output ports can be 'clocked' to the position for the application. My base has only six- the wrong pattern for a Ford 32/34 B engine. Also the correct pump has a dip to clear the side cover bolt and the pump screws also clear that cover bolt. So dug up a correct pump and will see about the fit. Engine spins great and may get to pop it this week. Pump base photo here.
12 hole base- the 6 holes I needed were not tapped. easy fix. The diaphram and shaft have to rotate 90 * to lock into the operating lever and that required 6 new holes in the diaphram- corresponding with the base extra 6 Easy. So now my pump looks right and the check valves pass the finger over the port test. Something to look for when pump shopping.
A rebuilder stated that aftermarket B pumps may not have rebuildable check valves! explains a possible cause of the fire. Electric pump was necessary to start and over- fueled the carb. It then lit off and started the fire. Newc
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Old 03-18-2022, 01:30 AM   #79
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The pump with the forged arm I believe is a Carter. The other is an AC. Never found kits for the Carter when I was looking.
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Old 03-18-2022, 01:54 AM   #80
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Great Job. You have done well.

Thanks,

jim
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Old 03-22-2022, 05:16 PM   #81
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I take that back.I now remember seeing a'32 deluxe panel with stainless cowl lights back in the mid 1970's.It also had the engine turned instrument panel.It belonged to Neal East.
Neal still owns it
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Old 03-29-2022, 10:29 PM   #82
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Newc, does your foot pedal spoon arm have the ball link for a hand operated throttle control too ? I have been curious to locate clear photos of the linkage from the floor pedal up along the inside of the firewall to connect to the hand lever behind the dash panel. I know you have a 4-cylinder but I have also seen another '32 V8 with this same linkage. My '33 does not have that part, but my truck was converted from a 4 banger to a V8 long before I got it and the guy butchered up my linkage. Now I am trying to discover what set-up I can attempt to recreate. THANKS.
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Old 03-30-2022, 05:45 AM   #83
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The presence of the ball on the side of the pedal shaft for the linkage rod to the bell crank attached to the foot of the instrument panel is unique to LHD '32s (first photo below) and absent on '33-'34 accelerator pedals (shown below in the second photo).
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Old 03-30-2022, 11:46 AM   #84
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Alan,

In addition to the accelerator pedal differences between '32 and '33-'34, it gets a bit more complicated in '33-'34 where the differences between fours and V8s extend beyond just the accelerator cross shaft on the engine compartment side of the firewall.

The controls for the choke and throttle functions on '33-'34s equipped with four-cylinder engines are not rods directly or indirectly originating at the instrument panel or dash, unlike those for V8s, but rather are flexible cables or wires within outer spiral-wound steel conduits. Accordingly, they are attached to the dash or instrument panel in a fixed manner, as with the '32 controls, using a chrome or nickel-plated escutcheon held in place on the back of the panel with a lock washer and large hex nut. (As compared to the rubber grommets that the '33-'34 passenger car V8 control rods pass through.)

The '32-'34 four-cylinder choke cables are pretty well known as to their construction with there being only a difference in the length of the three versions (B, BB, and 46 prefixes, 34 1/4", 32 3/4", and 39 3/4", respectively.

The '33-'34 four-cylinder throttle cables are of the same construction as the early B '32 starter switch control cable and various '32-'34 RHD control cables, namely a single wire inside a spiral-wound steel conduit.

There is an extra arm on the cross shafts that pivots. The end of the wire core of the throttle control attaches to the outer end of the arm. Pulling out the throttle knob causes the wire to pull that arm toward the firewall and pushing in the knob releases the arm with the return spring on the cross shaft returning the shaft to its starting point. The '33-'34 passenger car four-cylinder throttle cross shaft is illustrated in the photo below. (The throttle control wire from the dash is not present, nor is the cover over the opening in the firewall between the accelerator pedal and the cross shaft.)

Ford carried over the knobs from '32 (except for adopting black colored knobs for commercial vehicles) for both fours and V8s for the '33s and only changing the shape of the knobs for the '34 V8 passenger cars, not for vehicles equipped with four-cylinder engines, which continued to have the carryover '32 knobs.
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Old 03-30-2022, 01:17 PM   #85
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I have found that the V8 Ford Club books are invaluable for any work- Also 3rd Gen for correct parts. Newc
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Old 03-30-2022, 02:53 PM   #86
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David, thank you for posting these pictures and your explanations. Your first picture in post #83 above shows that extra linkage from the pedal arm going up behind the dash .... can you provide another picture showing how that link connects to the pull out knob ??
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Old 03-30-2022, 03:32 PM   #87
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Will do next week; I'll be on the road in the interim.
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Old 03-30-2022, 09:26 PM   #88
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Next week--The painted Cab comes back!! Trouble getting the front fenders done- shops are tooo busy. I should have scheduled them earlier. Newc
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Old 04-15-2022, 04:45 PM   #89
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Well; Got the cab back from the painter and installed on frame. Lots of work ahead-Goal NW Nationals in July. Never a burnt car again! enjoy! Used a 'Gantry' fellows! Real job with steering and bed in place- had to disconnect steering box! Action photos wrong pixils for upload!. Newc
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Old 04-16-2022, 04:00 AM   #90
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Looking great, Newc.
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Old 04-16-2022, 11:26 AM   #91
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Well; Got the cab back from the painter and installed on frame. Lots of work ahead-Goal NW Nationals in July. Never a burnt car again! enjoy! Used a 'Gantry' fellows! Real job with steering and bed in place- had to disconnect steering box! Action photos wrong pixils for upload!. Newc


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Old 04-16-2022, 12:30 PM   #92
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Your truck is looking great. I have built 4 32 pickups but I have a short memory as I could never fit in them very good. I need to be about 4 inches shorter and 50 lbs. lighter. That being said I am considering buying another that is done.
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Old 04-16-2022, 07:00 PM   #93
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Looks like the truck is really coming together. Great job so far.
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Old 05-16-2022, 08:33 PM   #94
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In a time race now. NW nationals or bust--July 11th. More photos wiring 12volt stuff -turn signals headlights ect. Wind lace is in, rear window correct screws . remember touring class almost concoures, but 12 volt. Wheels are 17". Gotta do the fenders myself-Painters !@#*& Newc
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Old 05-16-2022, 10:11 PM   #95
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Default Re: Burned '32 PU came to new home today

Really been enjoying this NewC, and I love the color. You pulled that thing outa the fire!
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Old 05-17-2022, 06:21 AM   #96
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Love it, you're doing a GR8 thing here.
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Old 05-17-2022, 09:02 AM   #97
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Can't wait to see it at the Wenatchee meet.
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Old 05-17-2022, 09:09 PM   #98
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Superb !!!!!! Excellent work.
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Old 05-17-2022, 11:43 PM   #99
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Is that wrinkle finish look inside the cab going to remain ?
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Old 05-18-2022, 05:58 PM   #100
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The inside finish is the under coating sprayed all over the cab interior. Painter just sprayed over it. Original??? I don't know. Newc
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Old 05-18-2022, 08:22 PM   #101
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Not original.
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Old 05-18-2022, 11:25 PM   #102
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The inside finish is the under coating sprayed all over the cab interior. Painter just sprayed over it. Original??? I don't know. Newc

What a shame.To remove somehow or scrape off will be an undertaking.Not sure if replacement headliner and cab panels are available (which aren't original anyway).
For what its worth here is a kit but its more of a Hot Rod style-esp the door panels..
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...gQbF1iXOBZSSYE

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Old 05-19-2022, 07:53 AM   #103
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Newc,
Wow! it is coming along very nice. Gives me ideas what mine might look lo
like if it was restored. I am sure your fenders will look fine, with your attention to details!
Keep hitting at it! Get your punch list and keep crossing things off!
Thanks for the update!
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Chris
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Old 05-22-2022, 05:20 PM   #104
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Previous owner admitted to undercoating cab. New problem- I was warned about this. instrument tower does not fit dash completely.! tight on the bottom and a 3/8th inch gab on the top-Photo. Appears that not using the dash pad under the tower may affect this? Loosened tower bolts and will attempt to adjust tower at firewall. Meanwhile a nest of wires is the old self-cancelling turn signal switch. We'll see how this goes 6weeks left. Photos wrong pixils. Newc
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Old 05-22-2022, 05:30 PM   #105
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Photos may be correct? Newc
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Old 05-22-2022, 09:05 PM   #106
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Bolted up the steering column-had to loosen dash. Nothing changed the fit. tightened dash back up. Instrument tower to dash -still odd fit-correct at bottom- open 3/8th" along top edge. Cab fits fine , firewall fit is perfect- top and bottom. correction would require dash warpage or different tower- not going to happen. Staying as is. Tightened steering box and pinned bolts. How did FORD guys get these done on an assembly line? Newc
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Old 05-23-2022, 12:00 AM   #107
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Default Re: Burned '32 PU came to new home today

Newc how about a custom made gasket or some rubber shims to try and align the fit a little evenly, might balance out the top/bottom alignment some???
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Old 05-23-2022, 01:15 AM   #108
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Photos may be correct? Newc




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Old 06-04-2022, 02:46 PM   #109
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Well; here are the new photos; We put the hood [incomplete] on and floor boards are in. Note; the toe board goes in First. The floor board is only held by 5 screws. Apparently Trucks did Not have floor mats! My painter has the missing hood side-the old one was trimmed![we never saw it]. Fenders are in my own shop. running out of time here now. Eng/rad holds water. gas line hookup today and first start this weekend! Newc
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Old 06-04-2022, 03:15 PM   #110
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"Well, here are the new photos"...







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Old 06-04-2022, 03:19 PM   #111
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Both '32 commercial vehicles and big trucks had taupe-colored rubber floor mats as standard equipment. It is basically the same as that for passenger cars, except shorter in the front area because of the shorter cowl. The openings in the mats for the transmission shift lever housing and hand brake are unique for the large trucks.
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Old 06-15-2022, 09:27 PM   #112
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Can't find those floor mats-'32 parts [even reproduction] are disappearing. Painter finished the lft hood side, so installed. Actually started the engine today and the electronic ign would not shut off! Had to pull coil lead from dist. My wiring. So the front fenders are being done outside here, cause of the dust, and bad weather around here. Hood fits a bit odd. Low at the back- maybe raise the rear mount at the firewall? Time is running out on this project- 1st of July limit. Newc
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Old 06-15-2022, 11:09 PM   #113
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Install the doors before you do any shimming (if that is the solution).
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Old 06-16-2022, 06:12 AM   #114
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Newc,
I know your too busy to talk, with the deadline approaching. Good luck. You have come a long way! Good luck with your fitment of the sheetmetal.
I see that your gas tank seems to have a fill port on the drivers side also? Still learning here!
Battery disconnect position looks familiar too. I am glad I put one in my 32.
Truck looks very sharp!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-16-2022, 12:46 PM   #115
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These 'seat' tanks are set up for right hand drivers, but not punched out. Never again for a burned car. Doors never burned and should just fit. Very tight in shop. Newc
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Old 06-16-2022, 01:11 PM   #116
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Looking good, it's gonna be REAL NICE!!
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Old 06-16-2022, 04:53 PM   #117
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Newc...nice job! Most of the time if an alternator has been installed and the engine won't shut off the addition of a diode in the exciter wire to the alternator will fix the problem. The alt back-feeds the ign and causes the trouble.


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Old 06-16-2022, 05:35 PM   #118
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So the new diode will point toward the alternator? One wire alternator. Newc
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Old 06-16-2022, 05:45 PM   #119
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New,
Just my thoughts as I remember, and I can barely remember breakfast. The strip on the diode should be towards the alt.
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