Ignition / wheel lock cylinder, 1937 ford

[Floridian Flathead]

i have a '37 Ford sedan without a set of keys. i am considering removing the current lock cylinder for the kit that is currently available in most cataloges. Has anyone out there installed this kit? I believe to be South American but it will solve my problem.
Thanks,
Richard

[danliveshere]

Richard once you have the cylinder out you should find a number on it. Any reputable locksmith will cut keys with this code in 2 minutes. Since you will have to remove it either way that is a good place to start.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Richard, I would suggest doing as Dan said. Remove your original cylinder and have a key cut to the numbers on that cylinder. If that doesn't work, have an automotive lock smith replace the cylinder pins to fit the new key. I have some good instructions on how to properly remove the cylinder from the steering drop. PM me your email address if you would like a copy. I personally would not put a new and possibly poorly made S.A. ignition lock cylinder in my car. JMO

[KGS]

Remove the lock cylinder from the door. It's an easy removal. It has the same key code as the steering column lock. There are numbers on that clyinder that a locksmith can use to reproduce a key for you. You can also just take that clyinder to the locksmith and he'll know how to make a key for it. Original key blanks are available through most of the early Ford parts suppliers. The glove box lock and the trunk lock are keyed alike so you can remove the glove box lock, take it to the locksmith and he can reproduce that key as well. Ken

[Floridian Flathead]

Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry about lost keys. Your advice is very much appreciated.
Richard

[Ralph Moore]

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I just picked up a 36 column without keys, and it's in the locked position. Which way does it turn with a key? I have a pick set, and have played with it a little, but most of the picks are for mordern cars.
Is it possible to remove the cylinder without a key if it is in the locked position?

[Bruce Lancaster]

I believe that counter clockwise will be unlocked.
Be aware that these are hard to pick, not at all like '60's and '70's GM or anything like that. I've never been able to move one with rake and torsion. Also, I have a lot of Ford keys and Ford locks around...I have never gotten a Hurd cylinder without its proper key to turn with any of the many '32-48 keys I have!
Unlike the trunk lock, the key has no role in removing cylinder...there is no magic pin freed by the cylinder in the ignition.
You need to drill...examine underside of casting in cylinder area, find pin, drillitout or otherwise extract. Pin is not very long...maybe less than 1/4"...and if you see brass shavings, you are through it! (note...pin you are destroying is a simple steel dowel inserted into the casting and is not part of the cylinder. Repro pins are readily available, or adapt a set screw.)
Every cylinder I have extracted except one has had its key number stamped on it.
Usually the cylinder needs no more than a good flushing out of crud to go back into use.

[Ralph Moore]

Thanks Bruce, I've had the same experience with 70's thru 90's car locks. I'm glad you said it was difficult, I thought I was losing my touch.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Some cars like '50's and '60's GM you can probably start with a nail file. Early V8's actually want all the little pointy things to be in the right place...

[Ralph Moore]

So I get to looking at it closer, and there is a threaded plug at the top rear of the cylinder boss. I pulled it out and there was a spring and ball that sets into a groove.
But still she wont come out. No other plugs, but there is a small(1/8th inch) hole in the bottom. Also the screw that clamps the drop to the column has no slot, must this be drilled out? I think I've seen replacements for that.

[danliveshere]

Ralph I have just had to do this to a couple of drops myself. Directly under the cylinder you will see a hollow pin, approx 1/4" diameter. You have to drill this out about 3/8" deep. You can see the drill has just entered my cylinder, no damage done. Once the pin is drilled you will be able to wriggle the cylinder out. Either use another roll pin to secure the cylinder or you can tap a thread.Spray plenty of lube to clean out the crud that builds up in there( just don't let it run into your electrics at the back.)

[Ralph Moore]

Thanks, that must be the 1/8th inch "hole" I saw at the bottom. Picture helps alot. I'll get at it tonight or in the morning and let you know how it went.

[Ralph Moore]

Actually it's a 5/32" hole. I got it out, but I may have drilled a little too far, I'll know when I get it to the locksmith(who is in our car club). Got the bolt that clamps the whole assy to the column out just fine with an extractor, but I can't get the steering wheel off now. It's in pretty bad shape, but I don't want to destroy it, no way to get a puller on there that I can see?

[Bruce Lancaster]

Drilling a little too far is not a problem...you are just digging into a pit that surrounds the pin. A lot too far gets you into the working bits!

Puller...The KRW one that cups the back of the pre-1940 wheels is reproduced, but $$$! I have a couple of similar flea market ones.
I have had success with modern type (though I actually use the 1940 KRW!) 2-bolt pullers.
Drill two appropriately space holes in the hub within the horn button area...use drill stops so you stop just short of breaking out the back of the wheel. Most pullers are set up for 5/16 bolts...I cannot remember exact size I use, but I drill slightly smaller than normal drill size for these bolts so as to get deepest possible threads in the rather thin steel and into the hard rubber. Hook up puller, make sure bolts are fully engaged and level, pull. I have not stripped any yet, and if you do you haven't lost anything but a few minutes as the holes are concealed.

Ford added the modern style bolt holes for puller in 1940.

[Ralph Moore]

Thanks, this wheel is really bad, cracked and missing alot of plastic, but I planned on hanging it on the wall if I can save it.

[danliveshere]

Ralph I followed Bruces' instructions as I had a similar wheel that didn't want to budge. The inner hub part was cracked before I started but it broke badly from my puller trying to pull from behind. Drilling and tapping like Bruce suggested and it came off easily, thanks Bruce. Dan.

[Bruce Lancaster]

A PS on my instructions: Threaded part of the shaft is surprisingly soft...DO keep the nut on the shaft right at the top. I actually collapsed the threaded area on a '32 once, which of course still gives me screaming nightmares and flashbacks.
If there is a horn wire you can fold the terminal eye a bit (this is '40-48 info) and push it down the tube a short ways.
Then, drop a bolt whose thread diameter is close to ID of shaft into the hole so it supports the puller ram, which otherwise would be trying to spread the shaft. I drill a small pit into the bolt head to center the point of the ram.

[Eater]

I am having the same problem. I got the pin out but how do you pull the cylinder out? Mine is out of a '33 but it looks the same.33 key.jpg

[danliveshere]

I had trouble grabbing the end of my cylinder. I put a large block of wood on the concrete and kept dropping the steering column on the wood upside down till eventually the cylinder slipped out enough to grab with pliers. Had to bang it hard on the wood to budge.

[Ralph Moore]

I took a suitcase key that went in, but didn't work. Stuck it in and turned it slightly so it would bind, then pulled it with pliers while using a small punch to pry it out in the hole I drilled. I guess I could have accidentally broke it off it there, but I was carefull and it came out. Also I filled it with dry graphite before I started messing with it at all.

Dan, that wheel looks as bad as mine, I'll have to try that.

Ralph

[Eater]

Mine came with the key broken off inside. I will soak it tonight and see if I can try the wood drop. Thanks!

[danliveshere]

Bruce you were right about how soft the end of the thread is. I had slightly bent the end of 3 shafts even when using the steering wheel nut on 2 of them. I couldn't use the nut in the picture above as the 2 pins of my puller were too close together. Another job to do to tap the threads but good advice to anybody about to do this job.

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

A PS on my instructions: Threaded part of the shaft is surprisingly soft...DO keep the nut on the shaft right at the top. I actually collapsed the threaded area on a '32 once, which of course still gives me screaming nightmares and flashbacks.
If there is a horn wire you can fold the terminal eye a bit (this is '40-48 info) and push it down the tube a short ways.
Then, drop a bolt whose thread diameter is close to ID of shaft into the hole so it supports the puller ram, which otherwise would be trying to spread the shaft. I drill a small pit into the bolt head to center the point of the ram.

[Ralph Moore]

Bruce/Dan,

That was the trick, there were already three dimples in the wheel face, so I drilled and tapped them and used a three way puller. Also I used the bolt in the shaft that Bruce recommended, worked slick, and the wheel popped right off.
Thanks,

Ralph

[oswego37]

hi
, i want to remove my ignition lock cyl. from my 37. Is there a right way to do this? It looks like the little plug gets drilled out. any comments or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Ernie

[Terry,OH]

lots of penetrating oil, over and over again, for days maybe weeks. Gently tap the front of the cylinder with rubber or plastic mallet and it will start to move. Placing an old key in the slot and trying to turn the cylinder also helps, after it starts to move.