Front suspension removal questions

[zuburg]

Just a few questions to make sure I don't ruin something trying to remove suspension parts. I have most of the suspension parts removed or almost removed.

1: It appears the very large bolts that hold the lower A-arms to the two cross members should be able to be removed to remove the lower A-arms, but mine seem to be in there solid. Do I just need to pound on them with a very large hammer? or is there a trick to it? I have all the nuts off and just need to complete the removal. I know I need to put the nuts back on to protect the end of the bolt if I'm going to use a hammer.

2: In looking at the idler arm, I wasn't sure how to remove it from the frame bracket and steering arm. It had a grease fitting on top of some kind of fitting that looked like three nuts hooked together (see picture). I can move this fitting in both directions, but it tightens up in both directions. Is this something you use a small pickle fork to pop off? To refurbish the idler arm, do you just replace the bushings? Do the bushings just slide on or do they have to be pressed on? I'm not sure how these connections go together.

thanks,

[Hot Rod Reverend]

1. You can use a large hammer to tap them out but I suggest that you get a long wrench or a breaker bar with a good socket to try to turn them at least a quarter turn before tapping them out. The original front crossmembers like to rust out and often the metal sleeve that these large shoulder bolts ride in tends to "rust weld" the sleeve boss and the bolt together.

2. To diassemble the idler arm, remove the bracket from the frame first. Then remove the bracket from the idler arm. Then remove the idler arm from the drag link. The metal bushings actually screw into that small bracket and the steering drag link. The idler arm ends then screw into each bushing with a rubber sleeve. The looks are deceiving, there are only two bushings to remove.

[miker98038]

If your pulling the A arms, I'm assuming you're replacing the bushings. I don't remember the particulars, but I think the bird bushing install differently than the pass car. Same frames and bushings, but something about which side i.e. Front to rear. Someone here will know, it been too long since I did mine. You'll probably need someone with a press for that.

If you're not doing a restoration, search "Aerostar" springs. Best $70 I ever spent on my bird for ride, handling and stance.

[Daves55Sedan]

At the top of the front crossmember directly above the giant studs there is a hole. Shoot some WD40 down both those holes. Screw the nuts onto the studs so that the nut is about flush with the end of the stud. It is best to hold a big round headed punch on the end of the stud to drive it out.
BTW, I plastered a glob of "duxseal" over those two weepholes after everything is done so that rainwater could not run down into those holes which spill directly onto the split shafts those giant studs goes into. That's how they get rusted for the most part.

[Daves55Sedan]

I second what HRR said and would like to clarify that the metal bushings are removed last and installed first. Note that when screwing the idle arm into the bushings, make sure you leave just enough thread backed out so that the idler arm can complete its full travel when making turns without binding. It is possible to thread the idler arm in too much such that it will bottom out on a turn and destroy the threads.

[bobss396]

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The lower a-arm bolts on my Ford were in there. Since I was going to replace them, I used a punch in an air chisel to push them out.

I also took the whole centerlink down as I was doing the idler arm and drag link. A lot easier than fighting under the car with it.

[zuburg]

Thanks HRR, that's just what I needed. I was able to get all those big bolts out and drop the A-arms pretty darn quickly. I had those and the Idler arm bracket off before noon. My only problem now is the other end of the drag link which is connected to the steering box (I think that's what it is attached to), see picture.

Again, I'm just scared I will hurt something if I just start prying or banging with a hammer. How is this connection supposed to be removed? Do you use a small pickle fork? It looks to me like the threaded piece is mounted into the drag link and goes through a hole in the arm on the steering box, held on with the nut I removed. This shaft is not threaded where the arm rotates. This shaft does not easily pull out of the hole in the steering box arm.

thanks,

[Hot Rod Reverend]

I always use a pickle fork to separate the pitman arm from the centerlink/draglink you have pictured. Once you have them separated, clean and inspect the parts in that link. They dissemble rather easily and if you need to rebuild it is not difficult to do and parts are available. I think I have some photos up here on the site if you check 55 ford refresh blog. Be forewarned tho, it has several pages.

[frank long island]

just my two cents when reassembling use never seize on the control arm bolts for the next time !

[zuburg]

Use never seize on the shafts of the big bolts? Or just the threads?

[miker98038]

IIRC, both. I've had those bolts where you could get the nut off the threads, but hammered on the bolt forever to get it out.