Wonder how hot the exhaust to muffler gets

[37 Coupe]

I bought the Aries muffler and the sealant from Snyders so I am sure they know this stuff will work but it shows it works to 700 degrees. I also see Brattons actual sell a kinda different sealer for the connection and it is a muffler cement ,not RTV. So I wonder how hot that area would normally get to.Thank You.

[SteveB31]

For around $30 you can buy a thermometer that you can point at anything and it will give you the temperature. Very handy to have....

[J Franklin]

You shouldn't need any sealer if the parts themselves are in good condition. They didn't have a sealer from the factory.

[CWPASADENA]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

You shouldn't need any sealer if the parts themselves are in good condition. They didn't have a sealer from the factory.

This is correct but if the parts are not quite perfect, the cement from Brattons is better for this connection.


You can use the high Temp. "RTV" on the gaskets between the manifold and block.


My experience,


Chris W.

[37 Coupe]

Originally Posted by CWPASADENA

This is correct but if the parts are not quite perfect, the cement from Brattons is better for this connection.


You can use the high Temp. "RTV" on the gaskets between the manifold and block.


My experience,


Chris W.

This is actually why I asked the question. I noticed Brattons solution is a completely different product in a tube ,muffler cement like what I used 55 years ago when I was in high school and it was cheaper than a new muffler.

[DNLs1930]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

SOOOOOO on this subject;
I have had my "family" car for about a year now and my uncle did a fantastic job of taking this car from 50 years of storage to a daily driver. One of the additions he made was adding a heat shield to the muffler. The brackets had cracked so it was rattling something awful but a few pieces of sheet metal and some pop rivets and we are back to being normally loud.



My question is after the reinstall I started the engine and was surprised at the high temperature that radiated from the shield.


I get that at idle there was little/no airflow to move the heat away but DANG it gets HOT!!

[Synchro909]

In our cars, the pipe goes between the clutch and brake pedals and if there is a gap around them, you can see it. I've heard people say they can see the pipe glowing red.

[duke36]

The manifold gets very hot and Walker muffler cement has held up for me at that location. It's an insurance policy due to misalignment, etc. I installed a new Aries muffler and as many owners do, leave the rear bracket loose and then jack up the muffler to align the up- pipe with the manifold flange. Sometimes the up- pipe needs to be "bent" slightly. I've tried the copper washers and the inside mating pipe offered by vendors and abandoned them in favor of the stock set up with the Aries.

[Y-Blockhead]

If you like to drive around with your timing retarded it can get purdy warm...

[Jim Brierley]

Max temps on turbo diesels is recommended to not exceed 1200 degrees F. At light throttle your engine is probably no more than 500*.

[MikeK]

There are two basic types of cement or sealer for exhaust manifold & muffler applications:

1) Silicone rubber based. These have an upper limit varying from 600F to 1200F. The lower rated ones, generally 400F continuous, 700F intermittent, are catalyzed from a liquid state by either evaporative or air exposure trigger at ambient temperatures. They are generally called "RTV" or room temperature vulcanizing, although they do not actually vulcanize, they catalyse. The filler that makes them into a paste form is generally finely ground perlite or silica. ADVANTAGE- They retain some minor elasticity, generally 2-5% after several thermal excursions. DISADVANTAGE- A gooey sloppy mess that requires solvent for cleanup and is difficult to clean up if you do not have a clear access wipe area, like in and around a muffler clamp assembly.

2) Sodium Silicate based. These are a water based mix and exposure to carbon dioxide (1% in the air) causes them to react with the CO2, producing silicon dioxide, better known as quartz or common sand. These have an upper limit varying from 1600F to 2400F, most rated about 1200F continuous, 2000F intermittent. The filler material largely determines the temperature range. Most use various screens of silica and sometimes perlite as filler to make the paste. The best have finely ground olivine as the base filler and can easily go 2000F continuous and 2950F intermittent. ADVANTAGE- you can easily rinse off excess with a hose spray in inaccessible areas before set-up, resulting in an invisible seal. The temperature range far exceeds red heat. DISADVANTAGE- For tightly fixed or bolted assemblies only, as there is no elasticity.

Both types 1 & 2 can also be found in packaging that refers to some other application besides mufflers and exhaust pipes but will work in that situation.

I only use type 2, and not the muffler stuff sold in the tiny tubes. I buy plastic jars of "furnace cement" at the hardware store. It feels a bit gritty but works just fine on very out of round and leaky iron header to pipe connections on modern cars as well as Model A's. Just gently hose and brush off the excess after bolt-up for a clean look.

[DNLs1930]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

If you like to drive around with your timing retarded it can get purdy warm...

O CRAP!!!


OK so from all the reading I've done on this forum this would be the spark lever full up position correct?
I see a lot of start with full retard and then advance as you drive faster but my uncle (previous owner) told me 9 o'clock was the start and run position. I have moved it around a bit and can hear/feel/see the difference but do not wat to make it glow red hot!!!

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by DNLs1930

O CRAP!!!


OK so from all the reading I've done on this forum this would be the spark lever full up position correct?
I see a lot of start with full retard and then advance as you drive faster but my uncle (previous owner) told me 9 o'clock was the start and run position. I have moved it around a bit and can hear/feel/see the difference but do not wat to make it glow red hot!!!

Spark is fully retarded when starting to prevent motor kickback. Kickback is very dangerous, especially if hand crank starting. Also hard on the motor.
Once teh motor fires/running and idling immediately advance lever about 1/4 way down.


The A operators manual is full of great info including how to start and run the A.




Click on "click to down load Model a manual", then perform file save as to your desktop.
http://www.motormayhem.net/model-a-f...owners-manual/