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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Lake Charles, LA
Posts: 50
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Hi everyone. I hope someone on here can help me with a unique need for my 1928 Model A Tudor. The water jackets on my Model A have been breached and I am in need of a replacement block in good condition at a reasonable price. Can anyone in this forum refer me to someone who can maybe help me with this?
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 4,613
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Where is the damage? Can it be repaired? A Model A club in your area may be able to steer you in the right direction.
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Lake Charles, LA
Posts: 50
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I doubt that it can be repaired. Some time ago a bolt broke on the intake manifold. In the process of removing the bolt, I accidentally drilled into the water jacket and was not able to stop the leak. I may be wrong, but it seems to me that the only remedy is to replace the block. I could be wrong, which is why I am appealing to this forum.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 349
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Try your local club to find an engine block.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 12-19-2020 at 10:02 PM. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 349
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Mill48, My water jacket is also breached in the same location. A previous owner drilled out the stud and went into the water jacket. I discovered it when changing manifolds. I put a gasket sealant on the stud when I re installed it and have no problems with a leak to date. I used a silicone sealant so that I could remove the stud at some time in the future if needed.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#6 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 12
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 4,613
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Even if you did not use a sealant the leak wouldn't hurt anything. Just use a bit of any type that might do the job. I would choose LockTite Blue, or old style shellac gasket sealer. Save your money for when you really bust something!
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 5,555
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My 1948 F2 flat head, almost all the head bolts are open to the water jacket. Just use sealer as suggested.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 5,642
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If that's the only problem with the block, I wouldn't even consider replacing it. A little dab of sealant on the stud and you're back in business. I have a block that has chunks of CI broken out where someone screwed a couple of head studs too far in. Discarding the block did not even occur to me. Decent blocks are becoming harder to find. Why make things worse for no reason?
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I don't always go the extra mile, but when I do it's because I've missed my exit. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Qld, Australia
Posts: 3,738
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Arnold, I have a pie of them, they may soon go to the scrap dealer if no one wants them.
Don,t worry about the studs going into the water jacket, the V8,s have all but one going into the water. Lawrie |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Corning NY
Posts: 110
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Don't worry about this kind of water jacket leak. Put some high temperature sealant on the thread and reinsert the stud like synchro did. We had an 84 Pontiac Grand Prix and on the water pump bolts one was drilled into the water jacket by design.
This is not an issue to concern yourself with. |
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Lake Charles, LA
Posts: 50
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How did you deal with the broken chunks of cast iron? The bolt hole is now oversized and I cannot get the proper torque on the bolt.
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#13 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Lake Charles, LA
Posts: 50
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Before you scrap them, can you post pictures and info on their condition?
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 4,613
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You had just said it was drilled too far. If there is other damage you might want to take your block to a machine shop and maybe it can have a reasonable repair.
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#15 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: PASADENA, CA
Posts: 1,619
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There are other thread inserts available for a very bad hole that has been really screwed up. Your local automotive machine shop should be able to help you with this. My opinion, Chris W. |
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 1,534
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Have you considered installing or having a machinist install a Heli Coil?
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Dave / Lincoln Nebraska It'll feel better when it quits hurting. |
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 1,084
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Timeserts are better than helicoils..a sleeve instead of a coil. But yes you can junk the block, they made millions of them. Hell I just tossed one with a water jacket crack, bored .125 over and needed main bearings.. felt a little soul twinge when it slipped off the forklift tip into the scrap bin but it passed..
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,368
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mill48... this is another option just now coming available. One of Terry Burtz' brand new engine blocks.
http://www.modelaengine.com/ |
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#19 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 4,613
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 930
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A couple thoughts. One, 348 and 409 Chevy blocks came from the factory with a couple bolts that go into a water jacket. Sealant is required, no big deal.Two, I personally wouldn't screw around with heli-coils especially when it is for a stud, not a bolt. I had a head bolt break off on my Model A engine and just drilled the hole out and tapped it to 1/2" and put a stepped stud in it. By stepped, I mean that the bottom is 1/2" then, right at the top of the threads (flush with the deck of the block) it goes to the stock 7/16". Easy, cheap and stronger than the stock stud. These studs are available from the vendors but I just made mine. If the application was for a bolt rather than a stud, I would go with the sleeves that Jack Shaft mentioned.
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