55 Fairlane New member/barn find

[Jpops55]

Hi everyone I’m a new member and don’t know if this is the right place to post but I have to start somewhere I guess. Last fall I bought a 55 Ford Fairlane from my next door neighbor. He’s had it in his pole barn for the last 27 years with the intention of restoring it and never got to it. I offered to buy it, we came to an agreement and now it is in my pole barn, hopefully it will be restored in a couple of years instead of decades. I’m not quite sure where to start, original or hot rod but would appreciate any input/advice you may have to get started.
Thanks, Joe

[39deluxecp]

Put a 390 4 speed in it

[51504bat]

Depends on what YOU want. My banging gears and burning rubber days are past me. That said since the car has an automatic I'd go with a small block Ford and AOD trans. But that is just me. You could also ask also questions over on the HAMB. Just remember traditional is the key on the HAMB. No Mustang II front suspensions, fuel injection, or low profile wheels/tires. You can ask questions there even if you have non traditional parts, just don't talk about them or post pictures showing them. Nice find and good luck.

[Jpops55]

Thanks, if it’s ok, I’ll probably have more questions down the line. Thanks for your guy’s time.


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[darrell]

go with the engine thats in it.you have a lot of work ahead.

[58Yeoman]

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Originally Posted by darrell

go with the engine thats in it.you have a lot of work ahead.

This is what I would do, also. Get it up and running/driving, then start fixing other things.

[rotorwrench]

The old Y blocks are different enough that a lot of folks try to go a different way but they worked OK back in the day. The 239 was a bit small but the 272 in 1955 was getting there. The Ford-O-Matic transmissions can be a challenge but they will work well if in good condition. AOD kits for the Y-block are available but are pricy to those on a budget.

The car doesn't look to be in to bad a shape and looks relatively straight. If the rust is minimal, you are a lucky person. I wonder if it was always red. The interior looks original except for the cover on the seat.

[paul2748]

if the current engine runs and the trans works go with what you have. Otherwise, a small block Ford (302,351 W) is a good choice and it uses stock mounts to install the engine. If an overdrive is not wanted, then a C-4 is a good choice -if a standard trans is what you want then a four speed or a 5 speed (O/D) are your choices.


First decide on what you want, then do it the way you want.


The first items that you should consider working on are the brakes and fuel system. Safety systems should be the first consideration.

[Daves55Sedan]

Not sure if you have a Fairlane with one Customline fender, or a Customline with Fairlane series body side trim. Appears to have Fairlane interior door panels, but the headlight shroud is Customline/Mainline version.
Appears to have V8, 272, standard steering, standard brakes and Ford-O-Matic transmission. If the engine is not locked up, it may be rebuildable.
Most people would tell you to scrap the original intake manifold and holley 94 carb. Replace them with 1957 or later Y-block intake setup, but you would need carb linkage and '57 or later distributor to go with that to make it work right. I am still using all original and it will outlive me as long as I can keep replacing crappy ignition condensers from China. Ford-O-Matic is a durable transmission. At minimum, you can probably drop the pan, clean out filter screen and replace fluid (use Mercon/Dexron fluid).

[Jpops55]

According to the vin# it’s a Fairlane, and it used to be two tone red/white. (The current red paint job seems to have brush marks in it[emoji12][emoji41])As to the Fairlane/Custom line fenders, I’m not up to speed with all the details that it should or shouldn’t have. I take it you should have only one or the other. Feel free to impart any knowledge you care to share. The car is very straight and the rust seems to be minimal, even the trunk and tub for the spare tire are solid. I think it’s a keeper.


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[58Yeoman]

We need more pix of your car. It looks like you got a good one.

[Jpops55]

Vin# indicates Fairlane Club sedan


Factory tag on seat frame

Vin# says torch red w/snowshoe white


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[Jpops55]

Air cleaner/mouse villa[emoji15][emoji13]
Saved the best for last, you can never “unsmell” that smell![emoji15][emoji2961]


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[scicala]

It looks like the mice had some fun, but a nice car. I assume the first digit of the VIN is an "M" since it appears to have a 272 4 barrel engine. Unless it's the very very rare "P" code 292 police interceptor engine. I've only seen one of those in my life in a passenger car, and it was online, not in person.


Sal

[Jpops55]

The serial # starts with a “U”. Not sure what that indicates.


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[Jpops55]

I think originally it had a 2 barrel carb according to online spec sheet. ??


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[Hot Rod Reverend]

welcome!

Looks this blog will help you

https://www.hotrodreverend.com/blog

While going back through my 1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan that I have owned since I was 17 (now I am 47), I tried to document a lot of work with photos and videos and explanations and part numbers, and on and on. Check the view count on this forum section. I used to post everything here but it got too big.

There are many wonderful, helpful people here on this forum. They were sure a help to me as I got everything back together! There are one or two bad eggs but they only show up every now and then.

Enjoy!

[Jpops55]

Thanks, I’m sure I’ll reach out from time to time if that’s ok. Your blog looks to be very informative. The Y block pamphlet is a big plus.
Thanks again, Joe


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[scicala]

Originally Posted by Jpops55

I think originally it had a 2 barrel carb according to online spec sheet. ??


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Yes, "U" indicates it was built with a 272 2 barrel Y-Block V8.
Somebody swapped on a 4 barrel some where along the line.


Sal

[the human wrench]

Check to see if the front cross member is rusted out. It's a very common problem with these cars. If it is bad you might as well tackle that first.

[bobss396]

Looks solid, 1/2 the battle is zero or little rust. Get the headliner out and power wash everything. I see you have critter nests.

[Jpops55]

Are there any down sides to power washing any areas of the car, dash, engine etc.?


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[miker98038]

I'd guess between the age and mice you're going to be rewiring it under the dash. The instruments are probably salvageable, or restorable. So I wouldn't power wash it from the front or underneath till I got them out. Assuming you've got a place where it will dry, I'd do the trunk and floor pans, and the engine compartment after covering the carb, oil fill, dipstick(s) and distributor. Don't want water down in the engine.

[Ole Don]

This soon in the planning part, I wish to tell you about the front end. It was suggested above you use a Mustang II. That is poor advice. The front end of that car and all other 54 to 56 Fords is a copy of the 52 Lincoln ball joint front end. It is strong, rides very well, and with a larger sway bar with hard bushings, will outlive you when rebuilt. Rebuilding will cost half what a Mustang II kit will cost., If you doubt me, look up the finishings places of Lincoln in the Mexican Road Race for 52, 53, and 54. Rebuilding the front end can be done at home with a large vice used as a press, but three hands make it easier. Good luck, and remember, this is supposed to be fun.

[Jpops55]

Sooo, when I get this running, stopping etc. is there a smart order of things you guys like to follow when you’re restoring? (Master list) I have a lot of questions floating around in my head, this will probably be an ongoing post. I appreciate everyone’s input.


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[Jpops55]

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Ha ha surprise,“Human Wrench”you were right. Get a load of this picture of the cross member. It’s been replaced and with a top notch weld job to boot. Is it from another Ford?,nothing a good farm welder and a pile of 60-11 rod can’t handle. Thanks for the heads up!![emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

Is the rock buster a stock item???[emoji41]


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[miker98038]

Here's a previous post on the front crossmember. The Hot Rod Reverend also has a repair section in great detail on his build post.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=278069

You can check them out and decide to repair, replace, whatever is needed.

I concur with Don, the bird and pass car fronts are the same. Carefully rebuilt they will perform fine. I looked into that with a well know nationally known frame builder. Bottom line was unless I removed and rebuilt the inner fender to allow huge hoops and rubber band tires, I'd never see the difference except on a race course.

The car looks like a great start. First, I'd decide on the engine/trans combo. I'm a Yblock guy, but you might be different, and it depends on what your starting with. After that, brakes fuel system, interior. Does the engine turn over, or is it stuck, or do you know yet.

[Jpops55]

Not sure yet, the carburetor needs to be rebuilt, its in pretty rough shape. Thanks for the information.
Joe


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[scicala]

Originally Posted by Jpops55

Not sure yet, the carburetor needs to be rebuilt, its in pretty rough shape. Thanks for the information.
Joe


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I can help you with the carburetor and the choke on the side of the manifold if it's stuck, when you get to that point.


Sal

[Jpops55]

Glove box,(Time capsule) opened. Ok a little fun tonight, the glove box wouldn’t open with the key and with a little tinkering and no damage to the glove box it popped open🥳 The attached picture is what was inside. I thought the “Blue and Gold incentive stamp was kind of interesting to me as I only remember the “Green Stamps” The car was originally from California so maybe the stamp came from out there. Any thoughts/comments? 😁😎

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by scicala

Yes, "U" indicates it was built with a 272 2 barrel Y-Block V8.
Somebody swapped on a 4 barrel some where along the line.


Sal

Maybe the entire engine was swapped instead of just the intake. Are there two vacuum lines going to the distributor?

[scicala]

The intake, carb and choke assembly are all 1955. Distributor I would guess is a '55 single diaphragm, but who knows without a picture.
If it was a four barrel engine swapped in, you would have to get casting numbers off the heads to tell. Four barrel engines had different heads with a higher comp. ratio.


Sal

[Fortunateson]

Your car looks to be in great shape to begin your odessy! It looks like you have the correct front crossmember but it may have been replaced at some point judging from the welds. If the car was originally from CA then I wouldn't think the crossmember would rust out however.

A number of years back Car and Parts magazine ran a series of articles on the restoration of a '55 Crown Victoria entitled, I believe, "Restoring Miss Vicky" which they published as a book. You may find a copy on Amazon, eBay, etc. and though it is for a Crown there is a lot that would apply to your car. I have yet to start on my '56 Meteor Rideau Victoria but the book has taught me a lot.

Now unfortunately for you and I a great upholstery supplier has gone out of business, ABC Upholstery that was bought out by LeBarron Bonney. They did great but slow work supplying kits. Maybe there has been some news on this front that I'm not aware of though.

Good luck!

[paul2748]

The guy who ran ABC is back in business under another name. Unfortunately, I can't remember what it is.


[QUOTE=

Now unfortunately for you and I a great upholstery supplier has gone out of business, ABC Upholstery that was bought out by LeBarron Bonney. They did great but slow work supplying kits. Maybe there has been some news on this front that I'm not aware of though.

Good luck![/QUOTE]

[Fortunateson]

Well that is good news! Ford Barn detectives find us our man...!

[Jpops55]

Good morning, according to my neighbor, the car is originally from CA., it was his brother’s who lived out there.(maybe explains the minimal rust but not the cross member). Here are some better pictures of the engine. Have a great day everyone.

[scicala]

Can't see the distributor diaphragm, but the intake is definitely 1955. The intake and carb at least were changed somewhere along the line if the VIN started with a "U".


Sal

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by scicala

Can't see the distributor diaphragm, but the intake is definitely 1955. ....
Sal

Jpops55
What a '55 Y-block distributor would look like...

[Jpops55]

Haha thanks Sal, I’ll look tomorrow. There seems to be a lot of layers to this “onion” as this goes along.[emoji1]


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[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Jpops55

... There seems to be a lot of layers to this “onion” as this goes along.

Yes, Ford upgraded various parts every year from '54 to the early 60's when the Y-block was discontinued. The first few years had some significant changes, not as many later on...

[miker98038]

Since you're looking at what you've got, here's a list of the casting numbers to look for. They don't necessarily tell you everything. Down near the bottom top the page under "information center"

http://www.ford-y-block.com/

[dmsfrr]

A slight shortcut to the list of info miker98038 mentioned...

http://www.ford-y-block.com/technical.htm

[the human wrench]

Well, some of those factory welds back then weren't too pretty but at least you have a good cross member. Yep, that skid plate was there originally . I guess it is there so whatever you hit it will jump over and get the oil pan!

[Jpops55]

Would there be any benefit in keeping the material on the seats for patern purposes? The smell is still pretty bad and the second you touch the foam padding it disintegrates. For now I would settle for a 5 gallon bucket and a pillow for a seat.🤮 It’s probably too soon to think of reupholstering anything yet. Any thoughts?, thanks, Joe.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by jpops55

... last fall i bought a 55 ford fairlane from my next door neighbor.

- 1955 FORD F/L CLUB SEDAN 70C -