U-joint Play (again!)

[Buford40]

Thanks everyone for your comments. I reckon I'll be getting a NOS u-joint. Since I've included pics and measurements of what "bad" looks like, I plan to include pics and measurements of what "good" looks like once I have it....

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Buford40

My washer looks way different. I reckon that's because of the design difference between the OEM Ford and the Bob Drake LZ u-joints. Regardless, I'm aiming to get a NOS u-joint and bolt and washer...

I have a Ford one too. I just couldn't find it.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by tubman

From what "Kube" said ("convex side"), it sounds like the washer should be slightly cupped. THe one in the picture doesn't appear to be. Is it just that it's so slight that it doesn't show?

The authentic washer was "cupped" as you state.
Prior to retirement, I made numerous dies that produced these Belleville's in about as many sizes and pressure as a guy could imagine.
That repop washer depicted in your post does not appear to be correct. Will it function properly? Me? I wouldn't chance it.
Plus, it's obvious it has never been heat treated so how exactly is it to have a memory?
I just don't envision that one working as Ford designed.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Kube

The authentic washer was cupped as you state.
Prior to retirement, I made numerous dies that produced these Belleville's in about as many sizes and pressure as a guy could imagine.
That repop washer depicted in your post does not appear to be correct. Will it function properly? Me? I wouldn't chance it.

Ray was a smart guy, took great pride in his products and used what he made. I seriously doubt he would put something out there that wasn't correct.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

tubman: Could it be that the little tab on the washer shown above is bent so as to provide needed compression? Notice the downward indent on the tab which is suppose to hold the washer in place. Wonder why they just didn't make a cupped washer like the original?

There's a lot more that goes in to manufacturing a Belleville spring than the "cup". There are designed load specifications at specific heights of deflection, hardness ratings, etc.

[Kube]

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Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Ray was a smart guy, took great pride in his products and used what he made. I seriously doubt he would put something out there that wasn't correct.

Roy, (not RAY) was a very close and personal friend. I was fortunate to have spent a lot of time with the man.
You are welcome to doubt this particular part. In fact I suggest you install it in your car.

[19Fordy]

Anyone care to tackle my "How to tell if a U joint is good" question? Thanks. JIM

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Kube

Roy, (not RAY) was a very close and personal friend. I was fortunate to have spent a lot of time with the man.
You are welcome to doubt this particular part. In fact I suggest you install it in your car.

Kube,

I apologize for my typo. I knew it was Roy. I lost my good friend this morning over the virus. I'm not in a good place emotionally right now I'm going to step away for a bit.

If you last comment was a snarky response, I totally don't appreciate it.
If I'm reading more into your intended tone, then I apologize in advance.



Thanks,

Tim

[Mart]

Sorry to hear that Tim. Awful things are happening right now.

In response to 19Fordy.

If you take the joint and try and rotate the two ends relative to each other and can feel negligible play, while still having an ability to slide freely sideways on both sides of the cross piece, then (I would say) the joint is serviceable.

Any rotational play or looseness between the bushings and the yokes means keep looking.

Mart.

[aussie merc]

just thought why not fit a spacer behind the yoke this is the way eaton keep their yokes tight. [ works just about every heavy truck trans uses this method]

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Kube,

I apologize for my typo. I knew it was Roy. I lost my good friend this morning over the virus. I'm not in a good place emotionally right now I'm going to step away for a bit.

If you last comment was a snarky response, I totally don't appreciate it.
If I'm reading more into your intended tone, then I apologize in advance.



Thanks,

Tim

Apology accepted.

[Buford40]

Originally Posted by Buford40

Thanks everyone for your comments. I reckon I'll be getting a NOS u-joint. Since I've included pics and measurements of what "bad" looks like, I plan to include pics and measurements of what "good" looks like once I have it....

I got a rebuilt original u-joint from Mac VanPelt. It is as Hal had measured--it has a 1.5" long yoke. When I put this u-joint on my tranny, it sticks up about 1/8" (vs the Bob Drake unit being too short). Also, the washer that I got from Mac is similar to what Tim had posted earlier. It actually nestles into the yoke a little, plus the tab locks it into one of the slots in the yoke.

So, this solves my u-joint play problem. As for why Drake makes/sells units that are so short, I'll let someone else figure that out.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Buford40

As for why Drake makes/sells units that are so short, I'll let someone else figure that out.

I'd venture a guess that "Bob's boys" have likely "never heard of that problem before".

[Hal Beatty]

Now that's the way it's supposed to look!

[19Fordy]

Buford40: Here's a helpful thread.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...sal+joint+bolt