Any one have success with a repair??

[rockfla]

Has anyone successfully repaired a fuel pump stand either welding, JB Weld, Devcon????

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by rockfla

Has anyone successfully repaired a fuel pump stand either welding, JB Weld, Devcon????

[deuce_roadster]

If you can get it clean enough a good TIG welder can probably fix that. If that is poor quality pot metal, there is a silver solder type product for pot metal that should work.

[36and63]

Originally Posted by rockfla

Has anyone successfully repaired a fuel pump stand either welding, JB Weld, Devcon????

I tried repairing one with JB-Weld and it failed once I tightened, I think with a gasket it allowed it to flex just enough to fail.


Pat

[Jack E/NJ]

To try to avoid ruining it with solders or welds, I'd probably use high temp acrylic super glue just to get the two pieces back together like a busted piece of china. Then I'd probably try to strengthen it by smearing JB Weld on a steel el from Home Depot. Paint it and probably wouldn't notice it much.

[Lawson Cox]

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I've got one that needs repair myself. Been thinking about PC7.

[Pete]

It can be TIG welded.

[tubman]

May not be the same, but I had a good result using the pot metal brazing rods available online to repair a pot metal headlight bezel from my '68 Corvette about 30 years ago. It was still holding fine when I sold the car 5 years ago.

I think it's a crap-shoot depending on the original material composition and how lucky you are that particular day.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by tubman

May not be the same, but I had a good result using the pot metal brazing rods available online to repair a pot metal headlight bezel from my '68 Corvette about 30 years ago. It was still holding fine when I sold the car 5 years ago.

I think it's a crap-shoot depending on the original material composition and how lucky you are that particular day.

That stuff works pretty good. You can TIG weld with it also.

[Tinker]

I might have one on the shelf that's not broken, depending on yr. PM me. You could braze it. It's a pot metal though.

The usual issue that warps these ears on the pump is the order you put it together. Certainly on the earlier motors with the baffle insert. The baffle goes in after the gasket.


If you look at the bottom early pump stands they have a recess to fit the outer tube baffle. If you put the baffle under the gasket the gasket creates a hump and bends the ears and stresses the cast when cranking it tight. Popmetal and aluminum alloy is not very forgiving to being bent like iron.



They do take a pounding too.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by rockfla

Has anyone successfully repaired a fuel pump stand either welding, JB Weld, Devcon????

I guess I understand your wanting to 'save' that piece, as I believe it's a relatively obscure 1932 piece, and likely hard to find, and harder yet to fork-over the cash for.

I'm not sure there is a GOOD fix for that. You already know that the cheap-ass pot-metal material it's made from is garbage, and not even of current-day manufacturing quality. The biggest problem with those stands is the fragility of the engineering and shape of those things at the base. It ls obviously thin, and it has no swoopy risers or ribs transitioning that 90º angle to lend support. On top of that, ALL of those thin flanges on the bottom of those stands appear to NOT be flat across the bottom, but with an ever-so-slight arc built-in. This leads to the casting being stressed when bolted-down, the tension of such lending to bending the two ears downward, stressing the exact area where yours cracked.

One more very important consideration is the constant pounding that the cam puts on those two ears every cycle of the pushrod as it applies pressure to pump the diaphragm, like maybe as many as 1,500 cycles per minute while just going down the highway at a fair clip. I just can't imagine a "dependable" way of repairing one of those. DD





.

[Jack E/NJ]

>>> I just can't imagine a "dependable" way of repairing one of those. DD>>>


Yep, if it were mine & if I cared about looks, I'd fake it with glue and an electric pump hidden away somewhere. 8^)

[D. Jones]

I suspect that it is a zinc based casting which would make it very difficult to TIG weld as the zinc wants to boil off creating a porosity problem plus zinc fumes are not good for you.

If I were to try that repair I would look for one of the welding rods made for zinc/pot metal repair and use an OA torch.

[19Fordy]

If you could copper plate each piece, you could then solder it together at the break adding enough solder material to make a nice fillet to beef up the area. A GOOGLE search may help. Read thru all of this info, especially the Jeff Lilly posting. It may give you some ideas.
https://www.google.com/search?q=can+...hrome&ie=UTF-8

I wonder if you could use 3D Printing to make a model of your base and have it cast.
Or is there a way to encapsulate your base at the break so as to reinforce it?

[dean333]

I have an extra from a 34 if it’s the same.

[FlatheadTed]

Get a piece of 1.5 to 3 mm bit of stock cut it to the shape of the base ,get some exhaust tube or fabricate something the same size as the inside of pump cut a 2" or so hole in the stock base and two stud holes weld the tube on the inside to the base stock were it wont interfere .Slide the arrangement up inside the pump ,mark around the tube were the hole is in the side ,cut that out with a hole saw .Glue it altogether and inside , say PC7 or block repair mix ,Glue the tube inside also ,You might be able to screw it inside somewhere , File it all tidy and you wont see much dont over tighten it should be good to go

[DavidG]

I would think that he would also have to add the same amount to the fuel pump push rod.

[Ian NZ]

Those castings can not be welded satisfactory, I have a brass spare fuel pump stand here chrome plated which I had cast many years ago it needs parts from another one to finish it of.

[Charlie ny]

Robert....send it with the other parts, I think I can make the repair.
Charlie ny

[FlatheadTed]

Yes good catch ,

Originally Posted by DavidG

I would think that he would also have to add the same amount to the fuel pump push rod.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Charlie ny

Robert....send it with the other parts, I think I can make the repair.
Charlie ny

...

[Eagle43]

If I couldn't find a replacement and it is indeed is made of pot metal, I would grind off a sixteenth or an eighth off the bottom and make a 1/16 or 1/8 steel "gasket" to replace what I ground off and glue it in place with JB Weld. Paint it and it will look original and will not break again.

As for the suggestion to 3D print one and cast it - this is doable but would involve a lot of work and skill. First you would need to make a CAD drawing, save it as an STL file and print it in PLA. Then you would cast it in aluminum using the "Lost PLA" method. Many hours of work compared to the 30 minutes or so involved in doing my suggested fix.

[19Fordy]

Eagle43: Thanks for the feedback about 3D printing and casting.

How about lost wax casting?

[rockfla]

Thanks everyone for all of your input, I maybe Have a line on a replacement BUT the fight, thrifty-ness and the repairman in me STILL would like to SAVE it.

CharileNY - IF it’s okay can I call you??? I have an idea, my machinist can drill me some small holes for “pinning” it with some 1/32 or 1/16 roll pins both for lateral strength AND alignment BEFORE any welding or any kind of Epoxy type repair is attempted.

19Forty - Yes the exact pump and year you posted!

Dean333 - Thank you for the potential Offer of your extra pump BUT I think IF your pump is in fact a 1934, it would be a completely different pump. Doesn’t your Mount to the oil filler tube on the side, same as 1935?? “OR” shouldn’t it?? Thanks for the thought and kind offer.

I will keep all posted of my success (or failure)

Thanks again everyone!!

[Charlie ny]

Robert,
My spin is to hi jack Ted's idea....I'd use .062 gauge stock whittled to the same
shape as the base flange then flame 'toughen' to resist bending. The broken ear can
be mimicked with a chunk of extruded aluminum (quite tough integrity wise) machined
like a recess clamp that will trap a flat machined on the broken area.....I'm in the
weeds now trying to articulate. Guess I'm better with a milling machine than English.
Since the pump and stand are one I'd add a .062 disc in the p/r cup of the

pump arm.
Charlie ny

[rockfla]

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I’ll send it up along with another pump. Thank you “CAS”!!!

[Eagle43]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Eagle43:

How about lost wax casting?

You can buy wax filament and print your model with that. It's not very common and more expensive than PLA but is designed for the purpose. Filament is normally sold in 1 kg spools. The process of casting is the same.