The Ford Barn

shew01 · 01-23-2021, 08:04 AM

Dirty carburetors tend to be a frequent theme on this site. Many folks post about cleaning them out to get better performance.

I remember in the late 1970s and 1980s, Citgo gas tended to plug up carburetors in my area. (I’d have to use aerosol carb cleaner to cure hesitation in my cars back then fairly frequently. I switched to BP and Exxon, and I stopped having that particular problem so often. If I recall correctly, I think these are called top tier brands and are supposed to keep the carburetor cleaner.)

Murphy (at our Walmart gas station) sells ethanol free gas, and I always add Marvel Mystery Oil when I fill up. So far, I’ve had my Model a for about a year and a half, and I don’t seem to have any carburetor issues.

I suppose not having an air filter would allow the carb to suck up more dirt. (I know there has been a lot written about the virtues and perils of running or not running an air filter.)

Was a dirty carburetor a common issue in the 1930s and 1940s?

Have you noticed one brand or type of gas causing more issues than another?

What are some ways to keep carburetors from getting dirty in the first place?

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wwirz · 01-23-2021, 08:26 AM

I cleaned my carburetor last fall and at the same time cleaned all the jets and replaced the gaskets. The GAV was not up to the mark so I replaced that assembly. The carb was indeed dirty but I do not know when the last time was that it was cleaned either. TO me, cleaning the carb and jets "baselined" the carb for me. I also run my A with the engine pans.
Other member in my club do not run with air filters. I try to purchase Ethanol Free when and where I can get it.
Compared to the 30s and 40s most roads are paved now....with the exception of the 600 yard long dirt road I live off of. :-)
I am not expecting carb cleanliness to be a big issue. If I have to clean it once a year after driving less than 1000 miles...so be it. A labor of love.
But I will report back at some point about how clean my carb remains. Planning, still on doing some driving at the MAFCA NH tour in June.

old31 · 01-23-2021, 08:40 AM

The key is to make sure you have all the proper filters installed.

Pencil filter in the tank, sediment bowl screen and filter and carb filter.

With todays roads a carb air filter is probably not going to make much difference as far as filtering more particles.

Jacksonlll · 01-23-2021, 08:57 AM

When you have those carburetors off to play with them, make sure that top flange is flat. Hit it with a large file to make sure.

McMimmcs · 01-23-2021, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old31

The key is to make sure you have all the proper filters installed.

Pencil filter in the tank, sediment bowl screen and filter and carb filter.

With todays roads a carb air filter is probably not going to make much difference as far as filtering more particles.

I totally agree with your assessment. Good common sense. Wayne

Mike Peters · 01-23-2021, 09:07 AM

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I suspect that dirty carburetors were indeed an issue back in the 1930's. Otherwise, why are there so many Tillotson and other aftermarket carburetors on Model A barn finds? Back in the day, it was easier to replace the Dirty Zenith with a nice new Tillotoson for 5 bucks, or whatever the price was back then.

shew01 · 01-23-2021, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Peters

I suspect that dirty carburetors were indeed an issue back in the 1930's. Otherwise, why are there so many Tillotson and other aftermarket carburetors on Model A barn finds? Back in the day, it was easier to replace the Dirty Zenith with a nice new Tillotoson for 5 bucks, or whatever the price was back then.

That’s an excellent point. I hadn’t consider that.

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shew01 · 01-23-2021, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old31

The key is to make sure you have all the proper filters installed.

Pencil filter in the tank, sediment bowl screen and filter and carb filter.

With todays roads a carb air filter is probably not going to make much difference as far as filtering more particles.

I don’t know if there is a pencil filter in my tank or not, but I’ll probably need to replace my fuel shutoff and check on that filter when the weather gets warm. It’s starting to weep just a bit.

I presume my glass sediment bowl has a screen. It seems to be collecting a little bit of dirt. There isn’t much in the bowl yet. I’ve heard they are prone to leaking; so, I’ll probably wait a while before I break it open.

The previous owner installed a carburetor filter, and the filter does collect dirt. I’ve changed it once.

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65f100 · 01-23-2021, 10:39 AM

does anyone use an in line filter bettween sediment bowl and carb?

JayJay · 01-23-2021, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shew01

I don’t know if there is a pencil filter in my tank or not, but I’ll probably need to replace my fuel shutoff and check on that filter when the weather gets warm. It’s starting to weep just a bit.

I presume my glass sediment bowl has a screen. It seems to be collecting a little bit of dirt. There isn’t much in the bowl yet. I’ve heard they are prone to leaking; so, I’ll probably wait a while before I break it open.

The previous owner installed a carburetor filter, and the filter does collect dirt. I’ve changed it once.

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To see if you have a pencil filter, climb up on the running board and shine a flashlight down the filler neck. You need to stretch a bit but the fitting on the bottom of the tank is pretty easy to see. You can look at the float on your gas gauge wire at the same time to see it it’s falling apart.

Before you remove your sediment bowl, get a new cork gasket so you can replace it. Sometimes the gasket comes off partially stuck to the glass and rips, not much good then. Worth a buck to just plan to put a new one on. Put a towel, bowl or something underneath it to catch the fuel as you loosen the bail. And turn off the gas valve at the tank first (DAHIK)!

JayJay

Tacoma Bob · 01-23-2021, 11:30 AM

I tried every bit of advice and was collapsing the "micro filter" inside the sediment bowl. Someone suggested that these motors get angry when over filtered. I tend to agree. To each his own but the best combination for my car has been the pencil filter and a wix brand #33039 inside the sediment bowl. That's it other than the useless (imho) filter inside the carb itself.

Patrick L. · 01-23-2021, 11:39 AM

I spent a lot of time in years past cleaning carburetors, carburetors of all sorts. I don't think its too much of an issue today.
It does seem to be a pretty big topic here though. Once a carburetor is properly cleaned and adjusted they should bullet-proof for along time.
As for an 'A' carb, whatever type it is, I run different ones at different times just for the heck of it. An 'A' is an 'A', they don't much care. In mine I run all the old stale gas I have hanging around from the mowers, weedeaters, outboards, chainsaws, etc. It doesn't care. But, I do use non-ethanol in those engines. When I pull in to a station for fuel with the 'A' I use the cheap ethanol stuff, there isn't much that can hurt our carburetors.
I'm one that uses an air filter and an in-line fuel filter.

shew01 · 01-23-2021, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayJay

To see if you have a pencil filter, climb up on the running board and shine a flashlight down the filler neck. You need to stretch a bit but the fitting on the bottom of the tank is pretty easy to see. You can look at the float on your gas gauge wire at the same time to see it it’s falling apart.

Before you remove your sediment bowl, get a new cork gasket so you can replace it. Sometimes the gasket comes off partially stuck to the glass and rips, not much good then. Worth a buck to just plan to put a new one on. Put a towel, bowl or something underneath it to catch the fuel as you loosen the bail. And turn off the gas valve at the tank first (DAHIK)!

JayJay

Really? I’ll need to check that out when my tank is low again.

And, I’ll need to order a cork gasket. I recently ordered a replacement shutoff valve, a pencil filter, and some spare gas lines (in case I need something up when I eventually take it apart in warmer weather), but I didn’t think about the sediment bowl.

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shew01 · 01-23-2021, 11:49 AM

Does a carburetor tend to get dirty (on its own, maybe with corrosion of some sort) if it’s just sitting for a few years? That might help explain the frequent topic—often the posts are related to awakening a Model A from a long “sleep.”

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Mike Peters · 01-23-2021, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shew01

Does a carburetor tend to get dirty (on its own, maybe with corrosion of some sort) if it’s just sitting for a few years? That might help explain the frequent topic—often the posts are related to awakening a Model A from a long “sleep.”

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I recently resuscitated a car that had been asleep for the past 11 years. Dry gas tank. After replacing the points and getting spark, I poured fresh gas in the tank and she fired right up and ran fine. B carburetor. The float valve leaked, so I replaced that. The car had been stored in a tight, dry garage. A car sitting in a damp environment might be more prone to rust build up in the carburetor?

1928Mik · 01-23-2021, 12:15 PM

I bet dirty carbs were commonplace back in the day. With no air filters or bad gas it probably took it's toll. I take mine apart about twice a year and spray carb cleaner thru it, then check all the filters and spray them out including the sediment bowl if needed. Doesn't take much time and seems to help keep things running smoothly.

old31 · 01-23-2021, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 65f100

does anyone use an in line filter between sediment bowl and carb?

No, that is something you really don't want to do. You don't need more points of failure next to the exhaust, plus it looks goofy.

I have had better luck with Snyders vs the wix brand #33039.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...earchByKeyword

shew01 · 01-23-2021, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1928Mik

I bet dirty carbs were commonplace back in the day. With no air filters or bad gas it probably took it's toll. I take mine apart about twice a year and spray carb cleaner thru it, then check all the filters and spray them out including the sediment bowl if needed. Doesn't take much time and seems to help keep things running smoothly.

I’m curious. Roughly how many Model A miles do you drive in a year?

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old31 · 01-23-2021, 03:49 PM

I do about 4,000 miles per year.

wwirz · 01-23-2021, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacksonlll

When you have those carburetors off to play with them, make sure that top flange is flat. Hit it with a large file to make sure.

Yes. I saw your video on YOUTUBE

Synchro909 · 01-23-2021, 04:10 PM

I am of the opinion that a lot of our carburettor issues these days can be traced back to the differences in fuel. Petrol (or gas as you guys call it) is a mixture of several hydrocarbons. There is a very wide range of them cracked out of crude oil. Back when these cars and their carburettors were designed, fuel chemists chose a group of hydrocarbons with similar boiling points etc so that hot or cold, any brand, they all performed pretty much the same. As demand for fuel rose, more and more hydrocarbons were included in the mix. Some had higher boiling points, some had lower. Then there are the additives for higher compression engines to maintain a high enough octane rating and "burn clean" additives. The demand these days is so high that fuel as we know, doesn't last long before it spoils and if left to evaporate, it leaves behind an oily residue. The more volatile hydrocarbons contribute to such problems as vapour lock, the lower ones to incomplete vaporisation and subsequent sluggish (lean) running. Fuel in those days more closely resembled aviation fuel of today than what we buy for our cars. Even though a Model A does not need anywhere near the high octane rating of Avgas, if the carburettor on your car is good, you will not believe how much better the car behaves on it. Sure Avgas is expensive but if you understood what I have written above, you will understand why and understand what a burden running a car in those days was for your average working Joe.
Computer controlled engines with variable cam shaft timing, fuel injection etc etc have made today's fuels acceptable in a modern engine but it is not so good in an old one.

Gene F · 01-23-2021, 06:09 PM

Was just our in my A and noticed it cruises nicely, but when I push the accelerator down to the floor "it falls on it's face". Let up a tad, and it's fine and pulls again.

I had the gas gage out a few weeks back, and the pencil filter looked fine when I shined a flashlight in there. Likely causes? I think I ran a coat hanger through the fuel line last time I had it off (no more than 1 1/2 year ago).

Any likely places to start? I'll likely do the fuel line from the firewall, and the carb inlet screen, since they are the easiest to do. What else in order of likelyhood please?

Synchro909 · 01-23-2021, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gene F

Was just our in my A and noticed it cruises nicely, but when I push the accelerator down to the floor "it falls on it's face". Let up a tad, and it's fine and pulls again.

I had the gas gage out a few weeks back, and the pencil filter looked fine when I shined a flashlight in there. Likely causes? I think I ran a coat hanger through the fuel line last time I had it off (no more than 1 1/2 year ago).

Any likely places to start? I'll likely do the fuel line from the firewall, and the carb inlet screen, since they are the easiest to do. What else in order of likelyhood please?

Try doing that again and open the GAV. I suspect it will get up and go.

Gene F · 01-23-2021, 06:32 PM

I did open it some, before I posted that.

Gene F · 01-23-2021, 06:33 PM

B carb, by the way

ericr · 01-23-2021, 06:38 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 65f100

does anyone use an in line filter bettween sediment bowl and carb?

I do.....

Patrick L. · 01-23-2021, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericr

I do.....

It was one of the first things I did. I use a filter in the line inside the car so its less noticeable. Many say that doesn't/won't work, so, just don't tell my car that. Its been running fine like that since 1975 so I don't want it to get any bad habits.

Herb Concord Ca · 01-23-2021, 07:47 PM

I run an inline filter also have since 1993. The one I use was used for VW bugs.

Ruth · 01-23-2021, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tacoma Bob

The best combination for my car has been the pencil filter and a wix brand #33039 inside the sediment bowl. That's it other than the useless (imho) filter inside the carb itself.

I run the Wix 33039 filter in the sediment bowl also.

Ernie Vitucci · 01-24-2021, 03:12 PM

Good afternoon...Some of us in the desert simply put a good sized magnet in the glass bowl and let it pick up the rust as it comes through. It is easy to see when the magnet is full of 'stuff' and you need to open the fuel filter and wipe off the magent and clean the bowl...works well...doesn't cost much...Ernie in Arizona

Gene F · 01-24-2021, 03:21 PM

Well this morning I dropped the bowl section off the B carb. Blew it out and all. I did hear a little "pop" when I ran a small wire through one of the jets. Coat hanger through the fule line. Dropped firewall sediment bowl screen, and it was crystal clear, as I expected. Compressed air through carb, and fuel line. It is better, but still not 100% even when opening GAV abt 2 turns.

The float is just a tad high. meaning that the toe of it is just barely upward with relation to the mating flange on the carb. I was taught if your gonna go one way or the other go a bit high. Otherwise when ya drive around the corner the car will stall.

I guess the only other thing I can think of is 1) change the pencil filter in the tank anyways.... 2) I

Gene F · 01-24-2021, 03:25 PM

2) Is it possible the carb was assembled the last time with he wrong jets? 3) put my Zenith back on the B manifold, and see if the problem goes away.

I have the big valves, Brumfield head, and the IB-330 cam, so if I don't solve this I kinda feel like I am leaving some potential on the table. I have an overdrive, but when I go up a hill I want that torque.

Any ideas?

Jacksonlll · 01-24-2021, 04:04 PM

The first thing you have to check is the end of your fuel line where it goes into the carb. If there is too much of the tube extending past the ferrule, the tube can be blocked when the tube end hits the horizontal filter in the carb. Happens a lot. Circumcise the tube a bit.

Gene F · 01-24-2021, 05:35 PM

I checked that, thinking there is a screen in there. None, cause I pulled that fitting and looked in there with a light. No screen in there. However, that's a good point. Easy to do, so I'll pull that off and check. If it's long beyond ferrell I'll cut it off a bit. Easy to do. Nice tip. Thanks. Lotta times its something simple...

01-23-2021, 08:04 AM	#1
shew01 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Roanoke, VA USA Posts: 1,908	Dirty Carburetors Dirty carburetors tend to be a frequent theme on this site. Many folks post about cleaning them out to get better performance. I remember in the late 1970s and 1980s, Citgo gas tended to plug up carburetors in my area. (I’d have to use aerosol carb cleaner to cure hesitation in my cars back then fairly frequently. I switched to BP and Exxon, and I stopped having that particular problem so often. If I recall correctly, I think these are called top tier brands and are supposed to keep the carburetor cleaner.) Murphy (at our Walmart gas station) sells ethanol free gas, and I always add Marvel Mystery Oil when I fill up. So far, I’ve had my Model a for about a year and a half, and I don’t seem to have any carburetor issues. I suppose not having an air filter would allow the carb to suck up more dirt. (I know there has been a lot written about the virtues and perils of running or not running an air filter.) Was a dirty carburetor a common issue in the 1930s and 1940s? Have you noticed one brand or type of gas causing more issues than another? What are some ways to keep carburetors from getting dirty in the first place? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

01-23-2021, 08:26 AM	#2
wwirz Senior Member Join Date: May 2020 Location: Corning NY Posts: 244	Re: Dirty Carburetors I cleaned my carburetor last fall and at the same time cleaned all the jets and replaced the gaskets. The GAV was not up to the mark so I replaced that assembly. The carb was indeed dirty but I do not know when the last time was that it was cleaned either. TO me, cleaning the carb and jets "baselined" the carb for me. I also run my A with the engine pans. Other member in my club do not run with air filters. I try to purchase Ethanol Free when and where I can get it. Compared to the 30s and 40s most roads are paved now....with the exception of the 600 yard long dirt road I live off of. :-) I am not expecting carb cleanliness to be a big issue. If I have to clean it once a year after driving less than 1000 miles...so be it. A labor of love. But I will report back at some point about how clean my carb remains. Planning, still on doing some driving at the MAFCA NH tour in June.

01-23-2021, 08:57 AM	#4
Jacksonlll Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Michigan-- Member of Oakleaf of MARC Posts: 1,686	Re: Dirty Carburetors When you have those carburetors off to play with them, make sure that top flange is flat. Hit it with a large file to make sure.

01-23-2021, 09:07 AM	#6
Mike Peters Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: South East Wisconsin Posts: 1,279	Re: Dirty Carburetors Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I suspect that dirty carburetors were indeed an issue back in the 1930's. Otherwise, why are there so many Tillotson and other aftermarket carburetors on Model A barn finds? Back in the day, it was easier to replace the Dirty Zenith with a nice new Tillotoson for 5 bucks, or whatever the price was back then.

01-23-2021, 10:39 AM	#9
65f100 Member Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Alamogordo NM Posts: 39	Re: Dirty Carburetors does anyone use an in line filter bettween sediment bowl and carb?

01-23-2021, 08:40 AM	#3
old31 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 2,094	Re: Dirty Carburetors The key is to make sure you have all the proper filters installed. Pencil filter in the tank, sediment bowl screen and filter and carb filter. With todays roads a carb air filter is probably not going to make much difference as far as filtering more particles.

01-23-2021, 11:30 AM	#11
Tacoma Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 1,025	Re: Dirty Carburetors I tried every bit of advice and was collapsing the "micro filter" inside the sediment bowl. Someone suggested that these motors get angry when over filtered. I tend to agree. To each his own but the best combination for my car has been the pencil filter and a wix brand #33039 inside the sediment bowl. That's it other than the useless (imho) filter inside the carb itself.

01-23-2021, 11:39 AM	#12
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Dirty Carburetors I spent a lot of time in years past cleaning carburetors, carburetors of all sorts. I don't think its too much of an issue today. It does seem to be a pretty big topic here though. Once a carburetor is properly cleaned and adjusted they should bullet-proof for along time. As for an 'A' carb, whatever type it is, I run different ones at different times just for the heck of it. An 'A' is an 'A', they don't much care. In mine I run all the old stale gas I have hanging around from the mowers, weedeaters, outboards, chainsaws, etc. It doesn't care. But, I do use non-ethanol in those engines. When I pull in to a station for fuel with the 'A' I use the cheap ethanol stuff, there isn't much that can hurt our carburetors. I'm one that uses an air filter and an in-line fuel filter.

01-23-2021, 11:49 AM	#14
shew01 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Roanoke, VA USA Posts: 1,908	Dirty Carburetors Does a carburetor tend to get dirty (on its own, maybe with corrosion of some sort) if it’s just sitting for a few years? That might help explain the frequent topic—often the posts are related to awakening a Model A from a long “sleep.” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

01-23-2021, 12:15 PM	#16
1928Mik Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Zanesville Ohio USA Posts: 267	Re: Dirty Carburetors I bet dirty carbs were commonplace back in the day. With no air filters or bad gas it probably took it's toll. I take mine apart about twice a year and spray carb cleaner thru it, then check all the filters and spray them out including the sediment bowl if needed. Doesn't take much time and seems to help keep things running smoothly. __________________ 1928 Niagara Blue Phaeton 1972 Olds 442 Convertible 1979 MGB -Life's Too Short To Drive Boring Cars-

01-23-2021, 03:49 PM	#19
old31 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 2,094	Re: Dirty Carburetors I do about 4,000 miles per year.

01-23-2021, 04:10 PM	#21
Synchro909 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 7,496	Re: Dirty Carburetors I am of the opinion that a lot of our carburettor issues these days can be traced back to the differences in fuel. Petrol (or gas as you guys call it) is a mixture of several hydrocarbons. There is a very wide range of them cracked out of crude oil. Back when these cars and their carburettors were designed, fuel chemists chose a group of hydrocarbons with similar boiling points etc so that hot or cold, any brand, they all performed pretty much the same. As demand for fuel rose, more and more hydrocarbons were included in the mix. Some had higher boiling points, some had lower. Then there are the additives for higher compression engines to maintain a high enough octane rating and "burn clean" additives. The demand these days is so high that fuel as we know, doesn't last long before it spoils and if left to evaporate, it leaves behind an oily residue. The more volatile hydrocarbons contribute to such problems as vapour lock, the lower ones to incomplete vaporisation and subsequent sluggish (lean) running. Fuel in those days more closely resembled aviation fuel of today than what we buy for our cars. Even though a Model A does not need anywhere near the high octane rating of Avgas, if the carburettor on your car is good, you will not believe how much better the car behaves on it. Sure Avgas is expensive but if you understood what I have written above, you will understand why and understand what a burden running a car in those days was for your average working Joe. Computer controlled engines with variable cam shaft timing, fuel injection etc etc have made today's fuels acceptable in a modern engine but it is not so good in an old one. __________________ I'm part of the only ever generation with an analogue childhood and a digital adulthood.

01-23-2021, 06:09 PM	#22
Gene F Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,958	Re: Dirty Carburetors Was just our in my A and noticed it cruises nicely, but when I push the accelerator down to the floor "it falls on it's face". Let up a tad, and it's fine and pulls again. I had the gas gage out a few weeks back, and the pencil filter looked fine when I shined a flashlight in there. Likely causes? I think I ran a coat hanger through the fuel line last time I had it off (no more than 1 1/2 year ago). Any likely places to start? I'll likely do the fuel line from the firewall, and the carb inlet screen, since they are the easiest to do. What else in order of likelyhood please?

01-23-2021, 06:32 PM	#24
Gene F Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,958	Re: Dirty Carburetors I did open it some, before I posted that.

01-23-2021, 06:33 PM	#25
Gene F Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,958	Re: Dirty Carburetors B carb, by the way

01-23-2021, 07:47 PM	#28
Herb Concord Ca Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Concord CA Posts: 635	Re: Dirty Carburetors I run an inline filter also have since 1993. The one I use was used for VW bugs.

01-24-2021, 03:12 PM	#30
Ernie Vitucci Senior Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: Scottsdale, Arizona Posts: 611	Re: Dirty Carburetors Good afternoon...Some of us in the desert simply put a good sized magnet in the glass bowl and let it pick up the rust as it comes through. It is easy to see when the magnet is full of 'stuff' and you need to open the fuel filter and wipe off the magent and clean the bowl...works well...doesn't cost much...Ernie in Arizona

01-24-2021, 03:21 PM	#31
Gene F Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,958	Re: Dirty Carburetors Well this morning I dropped the bowl section off the B carb. Blew it out and all. I did hear a little "pop" when I ran a small wire through one of the jets. Coat hanger through the fule line. Dropped firewall sediment bowl screen, and it was crystal clear, as I expected. Compressed air through carb, and fuel line. It is better, but still not 100% even when opening GAV abt 2 turns. The float is just a tad high. meaning that the toe of it is just barely upward with relation to the mating flange on the carb. I was taught if your gonna go one way or the other go a bit high. Otherwise when ya drive around the corner the car will stall. I guess the only other thing I can think of is 1) change the pencil filter in the tank anyways.... 2) I

01-24-2021, 03:25 PM	#32
Gene F Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,958	Re: Dirty Carburetors 2) Is it possible the carb was assembled the last time with he wrong jets? 3) put my Zenith back on the B manifold, and see if the problem goes away. I have the big valves, Brumfield head, and the IB-330 cam, so if I don't solve this I kinda feel like I am leaving some potential on the table. I have an overdrive, but when I go up a hill I want that torque. Any ideas?

01-24-2021, 04:04 PM	#33
Jacksonlll Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Michigan-- Member of Oakleaf of MARC Posts: 1,686	Re: Dirty Carburetors The first thing you have to check is the end of your fuel line where it goes into the carb. If there is too much of the tube extending past the ferrule, the tube can be blocked when the tube end hits the horizontal filter in the carb. Happens a lot. Circumcise the tube a bit.

01-24-2021, 05:35 PM	#34
Gene F Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,958	Re: Dirty Carburetors I checked that, thinking there is a screen in there. None, cause I pulled that fitting and looked in there with a light. No screen in there. However, that's a good point. Easy to do, so I'll pull that off and check. If it's long beyond ferrell I'll cut it off a bit. Easy to do. Nice tip. Thanks. Lotta times its something simple...