05-03-2018, 10:23 AM | #1 |
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Tool advice
I need suggestions and help on the best tool to remove stabilizer links in shock links on my 47 Ford. I had a couple of tools that are used in the past for popping ball joints, but it doesn’t cut it on this one because these link heads are too narrow. Does anyone have any suggestions for the best tool for the job?
Last edited by Rustedjunk; 05-03-2018 at 10:34 AM. Reason: Pictures |
05-03-2018, 10:37 AM | #2 |
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Re: Tool advice
Ultimately, only a BFH worked. Since mine were not going to be reused, cutting them made removing them a bit easier.
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05-03-2018, 10:41 AM | #3 |
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Re: Tool advice
I have never failed to get them off with a big hammer. Might need to put the sway bar in a vice to get a solid hit on it, after removing the end attached to the axle.
A little heat can do a world of good also. |
05-03-2018, 10:49 AM | #4 |
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Re: Tool advice
Hammer or any heavy steel on one side of the loop diameter and hit with hammer on the other side of the loop diameter.
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05-03-2018, 01:33 PM | #5 |
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Re: Tool advice
Common tie rod end removal tool worked like a champ on the rusted shock links on my '41.
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05-03-2018, 01:45 PM | #6 |
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Re: Tool advice
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05-03-2018, 02:07 PM | #7 |
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Re: Tool advice
What 51merc & DD931 said.
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05-03-2018, 03:47 PM | #8 |
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Re: Tool advice
X 2
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05-03-2018, 04:54 PM | #9 |
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Re: Tool advice
I remember the first time I was shown how to do this. It was in a salvage yard, trying to remove a tie-rod. The owner came over and said, let me show you how to do that, a young me in my early teens.
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05-04-2018, 12:24 AM | #10 |
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Re: Tool advice
Son of a gun. Never too old to learn a new trick!
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05-04-2018, 10:19 AM | #11 |
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Re: Tool advice
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05-04-2018, 10:21 AM | #12 | |
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Re: Tool advice
Quote:
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05-04-2018, 11:03 AM | #13 |
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Re: Tool advice
You need to hit it hard enough to distort the female part momentarily. Backing up the hammer with a HEAVY piece of iron on the other side is key.
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05-04-2018, 11:05 AM | #14 |
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Re: Tool advice
Just striking the side is not enough, there has to be a suitable heavy steel hammer or block of steel held against the opposite side while striking.
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05-04-2018, 11:31 AM | #15 |
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Re: Tool advice
A pickle fork has always worked for me.
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05-04-2018, 03:51 PM | #16 |
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Re: Tool advice
To add to what others have posted, sometimes on really stubborn ones, a little heat helps. It is a bit on an art to figure out how this works, but you will get it.
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05-04-2018, 09:06 PM | #17 | |
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Re: Tool advice
Quote:
I've seen this method of shock link removeal mentioned here many times, and others usually chime in to say "yeah, x2, that's the way I do it", etc., but I've never seen this method demonstrated, or at lest a picture showing how/where a piece of heavy steel is placed, and how/where the other side is struck with a big hammer, and exactly what is considered to be "the loop diameter". Apparently, rustedjunk didn't fully understand this explanation either, since he wasn't able to make it work. I think it would be very helpful if someone could post some pictures here showing exactly how this is done. Or if there is a previous post that demonstrates this, please post a link to that.
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05-04-2018, 10:04 PM | #18 |
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05-04-2018, 10:42 PM | #19 |
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Re: Tool advice
Oh, Yee of little faith!! I have done this a number of times myself on a Model A when I was about 60 years younger. The socket (called "loop" by 51 Merc) is the part that the taper fits into. It is a forged part and will distort a small amount when struck to "spit" the taper out, but is elastic enough to return to its proper shape. Never a problem putting a new taper in. The secret is to have a big solid piece of steel - I like a five pound mall - on the opposite side. You do not want the part being hit to move. That's why you need the inertia of the heavy BFH on the backside while you hit it with another BFH on the front. And yes, heat never hurts.
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05-05-2018, 03:55 AM | #20 |
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Re: Tool advice
I have used a small track rod end tool like pictured above, successfully. I have also used the two big hammers method less successfully.
I wonder, though, how one would tackle a 37-40 type rear shock link where it attaches to the rear spring perch. You can't really get both sides of the hole for the hammers, the tool won't fit, so I suppose it would come down to the back the nut off and give it a good whack with a hammer, or a pickle fork tool. If I were to use the hit the nut directly type technique I would try and find an acorn nut or closed end lugnut so I could hit it without hitting the threads. Mart. |
05-05-2018, 07:54 AM | #21 | |
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Re: Tool advice
Quote:
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John "Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein Last edited by JM 35 Sedan; 05-06-2018 at 09:22 AM. |
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05-05-2018, 09:38 AM | #22 | |
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Re: Tool advice
Quote:
Possibly, this picture may help clear-up the "two hammer" method. The "loop" is the tapered female part in the equation. Don't be afraid to whang the piss out of it with your "hammer-hitting" technique. DD |
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05-05-2018, 10:17 AM | #23 |
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Re: Tool advice
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05-05-2018, 10:35 AM | #24 |
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Re: Tool advice
I got them out, but it took some heat to do it. I had to pound them out by hitting the stud. The parts were almost 60+ years old based on the condition.
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05-05-2018, 08:29 PM | #25 |
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Re: Tool advice
8 I don't recall ever needing to use heat to remove the tapered shafts of a shock link, based on using the method I described in my previous post on this thread, but then maybe I've just been lucky all these years of owning and working on early Fords
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John "Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein Last edited by JM 35 Sedan; 05-06-2018 at 09:18 AM. |
05-06-2018, 02:45 PM | #26 |
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Re: Tool advice
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05-06-2018, 05:15 PM | #27 |
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Re: Tool advice
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05-06-2018, 06:39 PM | #28 |
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Re: Tool advice
The idea of the hammers is great, but often times there is not enough room to swing. This is what I have been using for years for Ford tapered seats like tie-rod ends, shock links and stabilizer connectors. This is a KD 3916, ball joint separator available through multiple sources like Sears, Amazon etc. Works every time, often with an assist from the blue wrench. For all the use I have given it, for $25., it has be the best tool money I ever spent.
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05-06-2018, 07:50 PM | #29 |
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Re: Tool advice
ttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Pickle-Fork-Set-including-Air-Hammer-Adapter/352342068517?hash=item5209394d25:g:jRMAAOSwWxNatu4 A
Here is a tool that sometimes works for me. Bruce
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05-06-2018, 09:56 PM | #30 |
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Re: Tool advice
I've had good luck placing a block of wood between the frame and the link. loosen the bolt a turn or two and smack the stud . they usually pop loose. I also coat the taper with anti-seize when reassembling.
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