1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

[cmbrucew]

Chris
What are you planning to use for mud flaps?


Bruce

[sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Chris,


If in the end you replace the reflector with the enlarged hole in it, please do not let anyone convince you that chrome plated reflectors are as good as silver-plated ones as that is simply not true. There is a reason that they were silver plated to start with. Silver plating has become expensive these days, but there's no substitute when it comes to non-sealed-beam head lamp reflectors.

David,
Thanks for the information on the silver plated reflector. Just got the distributor working way better than it was. Still needs rebuilt with new bushings later. But made some farmer improvements and some other tweaks inside per David Renner! So I think I may be able to sleep tonight!
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Originally Posted by cmbrucew

Chris
What are you planning to use for mud flaps?


Bruce

Bruce,
The old ones were not good. any suggestions?? I probably could get local ones from Rogers brothers they have been building custom trailers for about 100 years.
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
Grandson Mike came over and he and I worked on the timing and distributor. Also took a couple test drives.


Being a lead service tech for local shop this was a learning experience, like stepping into a way back machine! He did real good and helped me understand some things also. Found I have a lot of play in the cam gear, and or drive features that drive the distributor. Not sure this is in any way contributing to the way it runs? But this stuff is 90 years old!


I think he really liked the truck!




Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Ford Folks,
So I was wondering how much slop is acceptable in distributor rotor movement? There may be wear in the drive gear meshing with the cam shaft gear and wear in the slots of the drive pin from distributor shaft to the drive gear? And will this slop or wear cause issues when timing and or running??
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

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Likely, yes, especially wear in the slots and mating tongues from the distributor down to the drive gear. Wear would tend to retard the spark.

[sugarmaker]

David, Folks,
I will check for slop in the fit up and try to tighten those connections up, even as simple as they are. Probably wont hurt anything. Will also review the cam shaft gear driver. that is not in the engine (extra) just to recall its features. Then retime the engine again and run it a little and check with a timing light. We are in rain delay mode here so it will be some 32 shop time this afternoon. Have a local guy that has several model B engines coming out to take a look and listen to this engine in the next week too. That may be a great hands on learning experience for me too.
Regards,
Chris

[drolston]

My grandfather bought this BB '32 stake body truck for his farm in 1932. He built a camper for the back and drove his bride out across Canada and back through the great National Parks of our West. After that, it was a working farm truck for 30 years, getting an overhaul about every six or seven years. I drove it on the farm many times. After his death in 1961, it ended up as a shelter for hunting in the mountains west of Harrisonburg, VA. My brother retrieved and completely restored it, but the engine had seen one too many overhauls, and had to be replaced. Otherwise, all original. It drives better with an engine that has compression, and brakes that actually work.

I post this as encouragement for your restoration efforts. If you come across any thorny problem, PM me and I will call my brother. He will know, but doesn't follow the Barn.

[sugarmaker]

drolston,Folks,
Those are awesome pictures! It looks to be new! Your brother has done a wonderful job with your family truck! He can be very proud. Hope he lets you drive it also. I have only drove this ragged ol truck of mine 10+ miles. I can not imagine driving across country! It is rather stiff and rough compared to anything with creature comforts of today. The camper would have softened the ride a little?

My engine seems to have compression and the brakes are ok.

I appreciate the support! and encouragement. May not seem like it, but I needed that today!
I was working on the truck a couple hours and had to take a break.
Electrical is not my strong point. I would like to use any or all, of the switches that were in the truck for things like lights and turn signals. Some of these are aftermarket items that the original owner had installed, not period correct for the truck, but may be able function as it was when the truck was moved to storage 70 years ago.
The story goes that this AAB truck, belonged to a township first, and then was purchased for a water well drilling business. It hauled pipe and water for the drill rig.
It would have been his big pickup truck, or daily work truck.

Were these the biggest Ford trucks built in these years? I never hear of larger ones?

I found the drive unit for the oil pump and the distributor from Engine #1. It is not in good shape. I used the best one I had in the rebuilt engine.


I tightened the joints up as much as I could and re-timed the engine, again! Getting pretty good at that too, I must say! With timing light, the mark on the pulley seems fairly stable now at approx. 20 degrees advanced, near idle. At higher rpm it shows to be advancing about 5 degrees. Which as I have been told is about normal.
I couldn't wait, and took it for a spin up and down the road in front of the house in a gentle mist. The neighbors already know I am nuts so this truck adds icing to the cake! I am for sure getting more comfortable with the old Ford. A unique experience for sure!

I began to look at the wiring. Most of it will have to be removed as it is thread bare and totaly unsafe.


This dimmer switch has been gently cleaned and tested and will be used for the headlights. I dont really like the position under the clutch pedal but thats is probably where it will reside with all new wiring.


Also prototyped the headlight upgrade. Might work OK? Should be at least as bright as original factory issue.


I need some clips for holding the glass and some gasket material for the lens to set against on the passengers side. Will look to Snyder's for those items. I am assuming the are same or similar to the 31 lights? So a glimpse of a new Ford look coming to a backroad near you!


As the weather is getting cold and wet, Days may be few and far between when I get to take the 32 out for a drive. Other winterizing projects need to be done outside and in the shop. But this old moonshine running engine from Mid Tenn. has met and exceeded my expectations for getting a running moving truck!

Grandson Nic, will be back to work on the shop wiring next Friday, and we will begin on the rest of the ceiling lights. The LED's are super to improve the work areas! Having a work area like this is brand new to me! First winter with it fully heated! Could it be heaven? Maybe?

Thanks for checking in on me! The Ford Barn, Friends, and Family continue to help me on this truck project!

Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,
\
With sincere respect, why would you even consider re-using that distributor/oil pump drive gear, housing and sleeve when it performs not just one but two vital functions necessary to achieve something approximating the engine's design capabilities? The gear teeth are worn and pitted and the sleeve at the other end is already partly corroded away. One can only imagine what the gear shaft looks like when withdrawn from the housing.

There are places where money can be saved in these endeavors and others where it should not even be an alternative.

You stepped up for an all-new valve train and now it is time to replace those three components along with the slotted shaft that connects to the bottom of the distributor. Snyder's has all four for $59. Your main and rod bearings will thank you as all of that corrosion on those components is finding it way into your oil pan only to be picked up by the pump and scattered throughout your engine where it will do no good.

[cas3]

I would also replace the fiber timing gear on the cam with an aluminum gear. Old gears tend to fall apart after they get woken up from a long sleep, and the new fiber gears fall apart because they are new junk. Plastic hardware store lights on the rear I was refering to before, not your cool period correct arrow lights on the front

[sugarmaker]

David G.
Your observation is right on! That part is junk. I replaced the shaft and checked for and improved the fit of the slots on the driven components.
edit: Forgot to say that the one in the engine is in much better shape. Back lash is there but acceptable I think, considering 80 years of wear on the gear teeth engagement. I have gotten some pretty good used stuff over the years for some of my projects like tractors refurbs.

Cas3,
Too late for this Tenn. engine till it blows. Yes I could spend lots of time and dollars replacing everything. And if I do build my other engine that will probably happen. This timing gear looked way better than the one on engine #1. So it was chosen to go back in as a decent used part for this engine refurb, along with a lot of other good used parts. Could it fail, sure. If it does I will learn even more.

I did a Allis tractor a couple years ago. I took me 2 years. Engine block was cracked in 6 places. All new! All detailed! Yes it runs and pulls good.

I may not have 7 years to complete a truck and have had more fun with it already, than a show truck. Yep even if it fails tomorrow. And we must remember it's only nuts and bolts!

Those plastic lights on the back? Well they were put on at least 50 years ago. Guess it must have been a good design?
I have the same arrow ones that are for rear only , that could go on the back. But not sure I would get the visibility ?? Will think more on that. Thinking of yellow bulbs in the turn signals?
This truck in its current patina is about like driving a stealth bomber. I just blends into the shadows!
Not sure that the one brake light in the rear is enough. But I do like the neat factor of the old arrow turn signals. Thanks to John K. For those
Speaking of, and I know a lot of folks are cringing on the headlights. But I did get them both functioning with non period lights. The reflectors are not very good. So the actual driving visibility at night, might be greatly reduced. I want those headlights for visibility, even during the day. I run my lights on all the time in everything I drive.
Anyway the headlights are in the final stages of prototype. I even tested the old foot operated dimmer. Seems to work great.!
Regards,
Chris

[cas3]

Foot operated dimmer ?

[sugarmaker]

cas3,
Third picture above. Maybe I did not use the right terms for the item in question? Or if you don't know then you might be dating yourself! Just sayin!
Regards,
Chris

[Bob C]

The foot operated dimmer was added. Originally the lights were operated by the switch at the bottom of the steering gear.

[sugarmaker]

Bob, Folks,
Yes this was added at some time by the previous owner. I have not done the research to see if this feature would still be operational through the steering column. So Cas3 may have been questioning why this was on the truck when it was supposed to have the feature in the column? I can only assume it may not function in the steering column. Again more research on my part and then a decision on what to fix or use to do the task.

Local Model A guy met with me today. He gave me some tips on setting the timing. Suggested the valves need re set to about .015 gap and the carb need to be cleaned as it seems to be running a little rich. All in all a good meeting with Don H.

Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
Reset the valve lash per Don's suggestion (he recommended .015) I got real close to that. That was kind of a challenge, but not too bad with the adjustable lifters. Just a bunch of engine turning. Still better than grinding valve length.

Cleaned the carb and adjusted the float to be more level. it was tipped up a bit which would have meant the fuel level would have been a little higher in the bowl. Don felt this engine running was a little rich. I dont have a good feel for that yet.

Took the GAV needle out of the carb and looked at it closely. Found a broken thread which may have been causing it to be tough to rotate the needle valve. Installed the carb. and the fuel pump. I did put a inline filter in the gas line and getting lots of rust from the tank. Doesnt surprise me.

Also revamped my battery hold down. It was touching the ground terminal, which negated the battery disconnect switch. All good now for that issue.

So the lifter adjustment and the carb float re set were the changes today. I like to change one thing at a time, if I can, but it will be fine. Don felt the reason #1 and 4 plugs were not reacting to grounding was due to the valve lash gap being too small. I will be able to check that by grounding each plug and determine if that changes the engine running condition.

Will try to fire this truck up again tomorrow.

Oh almost forgot! You folks get the good and bad news too. While I had the valve cover off I saw small amount of water in the galley. Yea not good. Will add another shot of the K&W block sealer tomorrow and get it warmed up good. Keep your fingers crossed. Yea I know this doesn't look good for the old Tennessee block. Just what it is!

Hope things are good in Ford Barn Land!
Thanks for checking on me!
Regards,
Chris

[Pat L]

Cool truck!

[Tinker]

Chris, Can I still add my opinion on the wiring choices. It's usually one of the first thing I do to an old ford outside of the radiator (if I'm lucky). Go with an original looking wire harness or wires that look like correct.


Just looked at my go to bulk wire dealer and they just offer new stuff. So maybe never mind. times change.


When doing electrical, grounds are your friend. Certainly when dealing with headlights and tail lights. It's not unusual to run a bucket ground wire on the passenger side or tall lights.


Looking great!

[sugarmaker]

Tinker, Folks,
Your always welcome to add to the information exchange. I have gleaned so much good information from the Ford Barn thread on this old truck.
Wiring: Yes I have lots of choices to make. I really need to begin the clean up and evaluation of the cap at the base of the steering column and its contents of electrical connections and function. I dread that more than tearing into a old engine!

Separate but related note: I think it may be time for me to have the machine shop going on the block from engine #1. It could be pressure tested. sleeved and bored to .080 over. (I have the pistons and rings in hand), This would get new rods and insert type bearings to replace the babbit. Also the crank and caps would be machined for new bearing inserts too. That would have new hardened valve inserts installed.
I could move the valves, guides, springs keepers and adjustable tappets from this #2 engine. Would need complete gasket set,
Maybe splurge and get a new cam? They are a little pricey. Also new cam gear to drive the pump/ distributor.
So I would end up with basically an updated "B" short block. Transfer the fuel pump, manifold and carb. head, and distributor, and water pump, front cover, rad hose outlet, and any other items from this now running truck.

So was it worth it to get this running and moving? I think it was! I was able to a bunch of system checks and evaluations and many prototype projects.

Off to dump some block sealer in the old truck!
Regards,
Chris