The Ford Barn

gearloose · 02-22-2018, 09:32 AM

What is the best way to reinstall the engine/transmission. Trans/ bell housing first then engine or engine/ transmission as a unit?

Big hammer · 02-22-2018, 10:17 AM

Body off, one unit! Body on separate!

katy · 02-22-2018, 10:20 AM

If you have them both out, then install them as a unit.

gearloose · 02-22-2018, 10:34 AM

NO, I am NOT pulling the body off to put the engine in. I do have them both out to change the transmission to the new synchronized one from Michell and change the clutch/pressure plate plus a new ring gear. I took it out as a unit so the best way is to install it the same way? Any tips to help make it a smooth one man job?

daveymc29 · 02-22-2018, 10:55 AM

If I am working alone, one at a time. If two or more as a unit.

Dave in MN · 02-22-2018, 01:38 PM

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If working alone and the body is on the frame, I find it easier to install them separate. Two tapered studs made from a 3/8 x 2.5" bolt, help to align the flywheel housing to the bellhousing as it is coming together. To make the studs, cut off the head of the bolt and taper the cut end. (Round the cut end at a minimum.) Install one stud in the flywheel housing closest to the rear engine mount on each side.

As the motor is being worked into place, slip the stud into the proper bellhousing hole. The studs will cause the two parts to align when the margin of space is equal all the way around the mating components. I raise the bellhousing and transmission with a floor jack to help align the parts. Once aligned, a slight rotation of the crankshaft will allow the splined shaft to align with the clutch disc. Further in, turn the crankshaft some more and the transmission input shaft stub will slip into the pilot bearing.

I remove and install about two engines a month by myself and find this method the least effort. I will add some photos later (when I get to my shop this evening) to help you understand the stud shape and placement
Good Day!

Great Lakes Greg · 02-22-2018, 01:58 PM

I put them in as a unit. This is about as resolving as what kind of oil to use, isn't it?

Tom Wesenberg · 02-22-2018, 02:11 PM

I do them separate also.
While the flywheel is off and you are installing a new clutch, be sure to set the pressure plate fingers to 11/16" while it's all on the bench.

tinkirk · 02-22-2018, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearloose

NO, I am NOT pulling the body off to put the engine in. I do have them both out to change the transmission to the new synchronized one from Michell and change the clutch/pressure plate plus a new ring gear. I took it out as a unit so the best way is to install it the same way? Any tips to help make it a smooth one man job?

Patience slow and easy and if the torque tube is all in place, more patience and watch your fingers when aligning up the drive shaft

Terry

gearloose · 02-22-2018, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I do them separate also.
While the flywheel is off and you are installing a new clutch, be sure to set the pressure plate fingers to 11/16" while it's all on the bench.

Are you sure on 11/16? The books I have say 5/8", Les Andrews, vol 1, pg 1-148, the info sheet that came with the rebuild pressure plate, and the gauge to check them from Bratton's, all 5/8".

700rpm · 02-22-2018, 04:38 PM

Pack your universal with lots of grease before installation.

denniskliesen · 02-22-2018, 07:03 PM

Done it by myself as one unit. Leave the accelerator linkage off when going in until engine is in the mounts.

nhusa · 02-22-2018, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by denniskliesen

Done it by myself as one unit. Leave the accelerator linkage off when going in until engine is in the mounts.

This is what I did all by myself.
I am 73 yeas old and it took a bit of persuasion to get the motor mounts in but it worked.

Don’t listen to the by the book guys. Just do it

gearloose · 02-22-2018, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhusa

This is what I did all by myself.
I am 73 yeas old and it took a bit of persuasion to get the motor mounts in but it worked.

Don’t listen to the by the book guys. Just do it

I am doing it two parts with the guide studs after I pack the U joint. I am also 73 and I got the car in 1960.

DJ S · 02-22-2018, 08:07 PM

Either way is a pain in the ass... I would install them separately, less weight you have to wrestle when trying to get the motor into the mounts.

tinkirk · 02-22-2018, 09:39 PM

Looks like you just need to use your own opinion and install it however you feel will work for you
Everybody has a better way in there eyes how to do things and that's what makes the world go round and round

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

George Miller · 02-22-2018, 09:50 PM

I do it like Dave except I jack up one of the rear wheels. Then put it in high gear turn the wheel real slow until it picks up the transmission spline. Just put the engine with my home made overhead in my roadster today.

midgetracer · 02-23-2018, 03:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearloose

Are you sure on 11/16? The books I have say 5/8", Les Andrews, vol 1, pg 1-148, the info sheet that came with the rebuild pressure plate, and the gauge to check them from Bratton's, all 5/8".

Where is this measurement made? From where to where?

Tom Wesenberg · 02-23-2018, 07:42 AM

The clutch measurement for the 6 fingers is from where the throw out bearing contacts the fingers to a straight edge laid across the face of the pressure plate.

11/16" is the Ford spec., and I've also heard or read where some call for 5/8" and 3/4". I'm sure you'll get by with those 2 dimensions, but I like to go by what Ford called for.

See picture in replay 48 in this link.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...e+tools&page=3

midgetracer · 02-23-2018, 09:11 AM

Thanks Tom

02-22-2018, 09:32 AM	#1
gearloose Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: South Berwick,Maine Posts: 59	Engine install What is the best way to reinstall the engine/transmission. Trans/ bell housing first then engine or engine/ transmission as a unit?

02-22-2018, 10:17 AM	#2
Big hammer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Land of Lincoln Posts: 3,127	Re: Engine install Body off, one unit! Body on separate! __________________ Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done

02-22-2018, 10:20 AM	#3
katy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Red Deer, Alberta Posts: 5,042	Re: Engine install If you have them both out, then install them as a unit. __________________ If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn!

02-22-2018, 10:34 AM	#4
gearloose Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: South Berwick,Maine Posts: 59	Re: Engine install NO, I am NOT pulling the body off to put the engine in. I do have them both out to change the transmission to the new synchronized one from Michell and change the clutch/pressure plate plus a new ring gear. I took it out as a unit so the best way is to install it the same way? Any tips to help make it a smooth one man job?

02-22-2018, 10:55 AM	#5
daveymc29 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Danville, CA Posts: 1,553	Re: Engine install If I am working alone, one at a time. If two or more as a unit.

02-22-2018, 01:38 PM	#6
Dave in MN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Jordan, MN Posts: 1,411	Re: Engine install Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) If working alone and the body is on the frame, I find it easier to install them separate. Two tapered studs made from a 3/8 x 2.5" bolt, help to align the flywheel housing to the bellhousing as it is coming together. To make the studs, cut off the head of the bolt and taper the cut end. (Round the cut end at a minimum.) Install one stud in the flywheel housing closest to the rear engine mount on each side. As the motor is being worked into place, slip the stud into the proper bellhousing hole. The studs will cause the two parts to align when the margin of space is equal all the way around the mating components. I raise the bellhousing and transmission with a floor jack to help align the parts. Once aligned, a slight rotation of the crankshaft will allow the splined shaft to align with the clutch disc. Further in, turn the crankshaft some more and the transmission input shaft stub will slip into the pilot bearing. I remove and install about two engines a month by myself and find this method the least effort. I will add some photos later (when I get to my shop this evening) to help you understand the stud shape and placement Good Day! Last edited by Dave in MN; 02-22-2018 at 01:53 PM.

02-22-2018, 01:58 PM	#7
Great Lakes Greg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,369	Re: Engine install I put them in as a unit. This is about as resolving as what kind of oil to use, isn't it?

02-22-2018, 02:11 PM	#8
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Engine install I do them separate also. While the flywheel is off and you are installing a new clutch, be sure to set the pressure plate fingers to 11/16" while it's all on the bench.

02-22-2018, 04:38 PM	#11
700rpm Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 5,902	Re: Engine install Pack your universal with lots of grease before installation. __________________ Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole. Last edited by 700rpm; 02-23-2018 at 12:30 AM.

02-22-2018, 07:03 PM	#12
denniskliesen Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: SoCal Posts: 877	Re: Engine install Done it by myself as one unit. Leave the accelerator linkage off when going in until engine is in the mounts.

02-22-2018, 08:07 PM	#15
DJ S Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Southwick, MA Posts: 590	Re: Engine install Either way is a pain in the ass... I would install them separately, less weight you have to wrestle when trying to get the motor into the mounts.

02-22-2018, 09:39 PM	#16
tinkirk Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: SouthWest Michigan Posts: 363	Re: Engine install Looks like you just need to use your own opinion and install it however you feel will work for you Everybody has a better way in there eyes how to do things and that's what makes the world go round and round Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

02-22-2018, 09:50 PM	#17
George Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NC Posts: 2,975	Re: Engine install I do it like Dave except I jack up one of the rear wheels. Then put it in high gear turn the wheel real slow until it picks up the transmission spline. Just put the engine with my home made overhead in my roadster today.

02-23-2018, 07:42 AM	#19
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Engine install The clutch measurement for the 6 fingers is from where the throw out bearing contacts the fingers to a straight edge laid across the face of the pressure plate. 11/16" is the Ford spec., and I've also heard or read where some call for 5/8" and 3/4". I'm sure you'll get by with those 2 dimensions, but I like to go by what Ford called for. See picture in replay 48 in this link. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...e+tools&page=3 Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 02-23-2018 at 08:02 AM.

02-23-2018, 09:11 AM	#20
midgetracer Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bismarck ND Posts: 1,189	Re: Engine install Thanks Tom