1936 ford front end

[Blastfromthepast]

I noticed that my 1936 ford front end is lower on the passenger side.
The front axle is lower about 2 inches.
Is that the norm or is there an issue with the front end.
What should I check and be looking for.
Could the spring be bad. Any suggestions?

[19Fordy]

Could be a broken spring leaf. Bent spindle?

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Blastfromthepast

I noticed that my 1936 ford front end is lower on the passenger side.
The front axle is lower about 2 inches.
Is that the norm or is there an issue with the front end.
What should I check and be looking for.
Could the spring be bad. Any suggestions?

The first thing I'd check is any obvious broken leaf's in the spring. Then, I'd disconnect the shock link on each side.
The spring can simply be very tired. However, they tend to "tire" on both sides fairly evenly. The only time I've seen one "tire" so much more on one side than the other was when a long term driver was very heavy. And that would effect the left side rather than what you are observing on the right side.

Not to be a wise guy but are the tires inflated properly? On occasion the easiest solution is the one most often over looked.

My choices remain clear:
1) broken leaf - most likely toward the right
2) shock frozen

[51504bat]

My '39 p/u sags to the driver's side. It's been that way since I got it. When I removed the front spring to repair cracks in the front cross member there were no cracks in the front spring. Added tube shocks at the same time both front and rear. I'm guessing a sagging spring but won't know until I dig into it further. But my '54 Ranch Wagon project is on top of the to do list at the moment. The truck did have a HD helper spring on the rear which I removed when installing the tube shocks so maybe the farmer who owned it in the past used and abused it. Hopefully its not a frame issue but the truck goes down the road straight arrow.

[Blastfromthepast]

Thanks fellas for all your input. I had the shock links off and it still was low on the passenger side. I’m going to take a look at the spring next. It probably is the spring.
Is the front spring hard to remove. I was told I,llalso need a leaf spread to install it.
Any advise would be appreciated. Thank you, Tony.

[cas3]

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to get the spring out, raise the frame so the shackels are horizontal, then put a chunk of 2x4 between the shackel and the axle. then jack up the axle while feeling the shackels to see when they are loose. if its a stubborn one, you can take the center bolt out of the spring and do one leaf at a time, then no spreader is needed. spring is under a little load, so i just wrap a chain around it and cut the bolt with a torch or grinder as usually you are going to want a new bolt anyway. once you get down to the single main leaf you can clamp it with a straight edge or angle iron dead center in the vise, now measure off your straight edge to the center of the spring eyes and they should be exactly the same

[drolston]

The spring can be removed easily and safely using a small floor jack, or even a old screw/scissor jack. I would not use a bottle jack.

First jack the front of the car up a few inches, not enough to lift the tires off the ground. Then support the car with two good jack stands under the frame, about in line with the front of the doors. Put the parking brake on tight.

Then remove all four shackle bolts on one side of the spring. Put your little jack under that spring eye. If the jack lift point is wider than the spring eye, use a small piece of wood or metal bar on the jack lift point so that all of the lifting is done against the spring eye and the jack does not interfere with removal of the shackles. Then apply upward pressure on the spring eye, a little at a time, until you see the tension come off of the shackle. You will be able to wiggle it with your fingers. If you get it just right, you can remove the front shackle by hand. Or you may need to pry or tap it lightly to get it off. Readjust the jack pressure until the rear shackle is loose, and remove. Lower the spring eye slowly and carefully until it is relaxed. Repeat on the other side of the spring.

Then you can remove u-bolt clamps that hold the spring to the frame. Tie the spring up or support it with a jack so that it does not drop abruptly. DO NOT remove the center bolt that holds the spring leaves together. That is another story.

For installation of the repaired/replaced spring, simply reverse the procedure.

I respectfully disagree with those that say a spring spreader is safer. The spring spreader must apply maybe ten times the force laterally against the spring eyes to get the shackles loose, and a long bar in that much compression can buckle. Also, they can not be used on a spring with reverse eyes, as are used for lowering the front end on many old Fords.

[Kube]

I respectfully disagree with those that say a spring spreader is safer. The spring spreader must apply maybe ten times the force laterally against the spring eyes to get the shackles loose, and a long bar in that much compression can buckle. Also, they can not be used on a spring with reverse eyes, as are used for lowering the front end on many old Fords.[/QUOTE]

Even though more pressure might be applied (how did you figure that math out?) the spring spreader is designed just for the one specific purpose - spreading springs. When I was young - before I could afford a spring spreader, I swapped them out as you suggest. Yep, it can be done. Safe? My God... no.
A proper spring spreader will not buckle as you suggest. One made poorly, like anything made poorly, can certainly perform poorly.
There's a member on the Barn that has a very true quotation "Just because you don't understand the laws of physics, does not mean they don't apply to you".

And, yes, a spring spreader can easily be used with reverse eye springs. It takes only a tiny bit of ingenuity. I've done as have many others. Perhaps someone has a photo???

[cas3]

i have a home made spreader, doing rear springs it is essential, and scary! front springs, with no load on them, heck you could set a spring on the floor and hold your shoe on it while cutting the center bolt with a torch. they dont explode when there is no load. coil springs are dangerous, not front leafs.i wrap a chain around it, just wrapped a few turns so i can leave my feet on the floor. done dozens, they dont jump but an inch or 3, and do not try to go thru the ceiling taking your head off on the way!. 2x4's are the perfect height to keep the shackels horizontal and then just kneeling on the spring (fronts) is enough to get the shackels back in. the dr's method sounds good too, its not a big deal, and the front spring is not a bomb. my thoughts any way

[Tinker]

You will need/enjoy a spreader to take it off and put the spring on. I have done it with bottle jacks and that can work if the engine is there on the front. I tried it without the engine weight and had to stack 5 50lbs concrete bags on the crossmember to get it to compress. It was just lifting the entire vehicle. Of course there is little to no weight on the rear.


Once the spring is out a couple big c-clamps on the spring works well to remove the center bolt (some also wrap chains also) . It's not crazy pressure (more then ya think) but it's best to be safe and make the process easy.


I found a decent one for a great price. It's a inch and a 1/2" thick solid round bar. If that bends well.... something wrong.


Nothing like the right tool for the job. Ask here if anyone is in your area that can lend you one. Be safe!!


But that's just the first fun part, then there are metal shackle bushings to be removed. Take your time, have fun.


.

[DavidG]

Something along these lines won't let you down (or knock out any of your teeth).

I had a shortened version made for '32-'34 front springs.

[19Fordy]

Read thru these threads for lots of good ideas. Rent a Port-a-Power if you can't make a spring spreader.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/searc...rchid=13314065

[Kube]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Something along these lines won't let you down (or knock out any of your teeth).

I had a shortened version made for '32-'34 front springs.

Dave, I actually made mine while still employed as a tool maker. Stress proof steel and very robust. I modeled it after a KRW spreader I had and made what I'd considered improvements in their design.
I did make an adapter to R&R rear (curved) springs on my '34 coupe.

Why Did Ford make those darn things curved? If anyone knows the answer it is you my friend.

[RalphM]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Something along these lines won't let you down (or knock out any of your teeth).

I had a shortened version made for '32-'34 front springs.

Wow!
$7.00, I’ll take two!

[19Fordy]

Here's the strongest spring spreader ever made.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Kube

And, yes, a spring spreader can easily be used with reverse eye springs. It takes only a tiny bit of ingenuity. I've done as have many others. Perhaps someone has a photo???

Here's a picture! Four short pieces of 1/8" X 3/4" angle, eight holes drilled and four short 3/8" bolts...…..done deal! Just make sure the angle is placed AGAINST the two eyes. DD