The Ford Barn

MyTwOfOrDs · 12-23-2021, 09:44 AM

Hey Guys. Got to use an acrylic to paint a door on my 46. My latitude is now around freezing. I have no problem with heating shop to 70 plus degrees to paint and shop will hold that for few hours after painted but then the most is 45-50. What about if I hang a SMALL heat lamp high over door to keep temp up or is that stupid? Or is 45-50 OK to cure after 3-4 hrs of 70 plus?

THANKS

51 MERC-CT · 12-23-2021, 10:13 AM

Temperature is just one consideration.
Relative humidity is another and is what can cause the worst problems when the temperature is not kept high enough for long enough to prevent 'blushing'. (formation of liquid on surface)

MyTwOfOrDs · 12-23-2021, 10:17 AM

I got the handle on dry. You can strike a match ANYwhere. So past a few hrs at 70+ would 50s or 60s do? This stuff is aparently the collision centers friend. After a fix they usually tell me come get in minus 20 and road salt

19Fordy · 12-23-2021, 10:19 AM

Best bet would be to contact the company that makes the paint. I would think that it's best to have the car in a warm temperature environment for at least a day after painting so as to get the chemical solvents in the paint "gas out" and allow the paint to cure to a smooth finish for buffing. What 51MERC said makes sense.

Perhaps I am missing something. Please clarify your response when you said:
"I got the handle on dry. You can strike a match ANYwhere. So past a few hrs at 70+ would 50s or 60s do? This stuff is aparently the collision centers friend. After a fix they usually tell me come get in minus 20 and road salt"

deuce_roadster · 12-23-2021, 12:01 PM

I hope you realize you need to have fans blowing the overspray out of your paint area and "new" air coming in all the time you are spraying. Can you exhaust the vapors and overspray and pull in air from the 70 degree area? Will your heat source keep up with the air exchange needed as you blow warm exhaust out of your paint area? I have painted lots of cars and this issue keeps me from painting this time of year. My latitude is near 47 degrees. They make different catalysts for colder or hotter (faster or slower) for dealing with temperature only. As mentioned above "blush" is real, as moisture condenses on your new paint. Also drain the water out of your air compressor before you start and have good moisture traps like Motor guard "toilet paper" filters and a new small disposable one at the gun. Good luck and be safe, catalyzed paints can be lethal.
If you use the faster catalyst and keep it at 70 degrees for a few hours I think it would be fine.
PS I have one of those infra red lamp/heaters for forcing paint on a door or small parts. If you get it at the right distance so not too hot that can be a big help.

PSS If you have the door standing up like on the car when you paint it, less dust and crap will settle on it while the paint is tacky. I paint all around the edges while it is upside down and flat, then have it suspended so it is like on the car to paint the outside.

wga · 12-24-2021, 01:05 PM

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x2 what Deuce Roadster says. You need the surface the correct temp, plus the air. Get a temp gun to measure the surface temp, you might need to heat that metal for a day.
'Collision center's friend', that stuff is quick dry single stage.
If you bring your car in close to paint booth ready, what would a shop charge you? Consider your time and expenses, plus the hassle factor times the PIA multiplier when
making your decision!

12-23-2021, 09:44 AM	#1
MyTwOfOrDs BANNED Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 54	Painting the 46 Hey Guys. Got to use an acrylic to paint a door on my 46. My latitude is now around freezing. I have no problem with heating shop to 70 plus degrees to paint and shop will hold that for few hours after painted but then the most is 45-50. What about if I hang a SMALL heat lamp high over door to keep temp up or is that stupid? Or is 45-50 OK to cure after 3-4 hrs of 70 plus? THANKS

12-23-2021, 10:13 AM	#2
51 MERC-CT Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: East Hartford, Ct Posts: 5,898	Re: Painting the 46 Temperature is just one consideration. Relative humidity is another and is what can cause the worst problems when the temperature is not kept high enough for long enough to prevent 'blushing'. (formation of liquid on surface) __________________ DON'T RECALL DOING SOMETHING FOR MYSELF BASED ON SOMEONE ELSE'S LIKES OR DISLIKES

12-23-2021, 10:17 AM	#3
MyTwOfOrDs BANNED Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 54	Re: Painting the 46 I got the handle on dry. You can strike a match ANYwhere. So past a few hrs at 70+ would 50s or 60s do? This stuff is aparently the collision centers friend. After a fix they usually tell me come get in minus 20 and road salt

12-23-2021, 10:19 AM	#4
19Fordy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Coral Springs FL Posts: 10,942	Re: Painting the 46 Best bet would be to contact the company that makes the paint. I would think that it's best to have the car in a warm temperature environment for at least a day after painting so as to get the chemical solvents in the paint "gas out" and allow the paint to cure to a smooth finish for buffing. What 51MERC said makes sense. Perhaps I am missing something. Please clarify your response when you said: "I got the handle on dry. You can strike a match ANYwhere. So past a few hrs at 70+ would 50s or 60s do? This stuff is aparently the collision centers friend. After a fix they usually tell me come get in minus 20 and road salt"

12-23-2021, 12:01 PM	#5
deuce_roadster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Shelton, WA Posts: 3,800	Re: Painting the 46 I hope you realize you need to have fans blowing the overspray out of your paint area and "new" air coming in all the time you are spraying. Can you exhaust the vapors and overspray and pull in air from the 70 degree area? Will your heat source keep up with the air exchange needed as you blow warm exhaust out of your paint area? I have painted lots of cars and this issue keeps me from painting this time of year. My latitude is near 47 degrees. They make different catalysts for colder or hotter (faster or slower) for dealing with temperature only. As mentioned above "blush" is real, as moisture condenses on your new paint. Also drain the water out of your air compressor before you start and have good moisture traps like Motor guard "toilet paper" filters and a new small disposable one at the gun. Good luck and be safe, catalyzed paints can be lethal. If you use the faster catalyst and keep it at 70 degrees for a few hours I think it would be fine. PS I have one of those infra red lamp/heaters for forcing paint on a door or small parts. If you get it at the right distance so not too hot that can be a big help. PSS If you have the door standing up like on the car when you paint it, less dust and crap will settle on it while the paint is tacky. I paint all around the edges while it is upside down and flat, then have it suspended so it is like on the car to paint the outside. Last edited by deuce_roadster; 12-23-2021 at 12:18 PM.

12-24-2021, 01:05 PM	#6
wga Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Yorba Linda, CA Posts: 900	Re: Painting the 46 Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) x2 what Deuce Roadster says. You need the surface the correct temp, plus the air. Get a temp gun to measure the surface temp, you might need to heat that metal for a day. 'Collision center's friend', that stuff is quick dry single stage. If you bring your car in close to paint booth ready, what would a shop charge you? Consider your time and expenses, plus the hassle factor times the PIA multiplier when making your decision! __________________ Henry Ford designed the flathead without the aid of a computer.