The Ford Barn

Roadster Rich · 04-09-2017, 08:52 AM

I have had an FS electronic distributor on my Roadster for about 12 years. It is the older one, not the one that resembles the Model A distributor. I had the head off for some work a while ago and reassembled. Timed the distributor with a timing light at 3 degrees advanced at a low idle. But the starter barely turns over the engine. With the switch off it spins fast (normal) but with the switch on it barely gets "over the top". I think this means that the firing is early. But running over the road feels just right and based on the way they say to time it, it is just right. Any ideas?

Probably most of the ideas will be to replace it with the original and in fact I think that I will order the parts to rebuild one of my old ones. May be the time to go back to what I remember.

Rich

George Miller · 04-09-2017, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roadster Rich

I have had an FS electronic distributor on my Roadster for about 12 years. It is the older one, not the one that resembles the Model A distributor. I had the head off for some work a while ago and reassembled. Timed the distributor with a timing light at 3 degrees advanced at a low idle. But the starter barely turns over the engine. With the switch off it spins fast (normal) but with the switch on it barely gets "over the top". I think this means that the firing is early. But running over the road feels just right and based on the way they say to time it, it is just right. Any ideas?

Probably most of the ideas will be to replace it with the original and in fact I think that I will order the parts to rebuild one of my old ones. May be the time to go back to what I remember.

Rich

Sounds like it is really more than 3 degrees. Re check your timing mark.

MikeK · 04-09-2017, 10:05 AM

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Centrifugal advance dizzys behave in an artificially retarded manner when dirt, dryness, and friction come into the picture, especially at low speed.

Disassemble the entire advance assembly and clean and lube every contact and pivot point. Without the drag from the points follower it should go from one extreme to the other with a light two finger twist on the cam. You should easily and smoothly feel the resistance increase/decrease as the springs attempt to return the weights to zero while you twist it back and forth.

Polish the cam by hand with some simichrome or your fav metal polish, lube it with cam lube, and try a new set of points with a fresh, unworn follower.

You can time it statically, just like the original. Find TDC with the pin. Use a meter or test light across the points to set the opening at that point. You will need to physically hold (twist) the upper cam shaft to the full retard limit when doing this.

Remember, if it worked OK before, but not now, something changed.

04-09-2017, 08:52 AM	#1
Roadster Rich Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alpharetta, Georgia (Atlanta) Posts: 272	FSI Distributor I have had an FS electronic distributor on my Roadster for about 12 years. It is the older one, not the one that resembles the Model A distributor. I had the head off for some work a while ago and reassembled. Timed the distributor with a timing light at 3 degrees advanced at a low idle. But the starter barely turns over the engine. With the switch off it spins fast (normal) but with the switch on it barely gets "over the top". I think this means that the firing is early. But running over the road feels just right and based on the way they say to time it, it is just right. Any ideas? Probably most of the ideas will be to replace it with the original and in fact I think that I will order the parts to rebuild one of my old ones. May be the time to go back to what I remember. Rich

04-09-2017, 10:05 AM	#3
MikeK Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Windy City Posts: 2,919	Re: FSI Distributor Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Centrifugal advance dizzys behave in an artificially retarded manner when dirt, dryness, and friction come into the picture, especially at low speed. Disassemble the entire advance assembly and clean and lube every contact and pivot point. Without the drag from the points follower it should go from one extreme to the other with a light two finger twist on the cam. You should easily and smoothly feel the resistance increase/decrease as the springs attempt to return the weights to zero while you twist it back and forth. Polish the cam by hand with some simichrome or your fav metal polish, lube it with cam lube, and try a new set of points with a fresh, unworn follower. You can time it statically, just like the original. Find TDC with the pin. Use a meter or test light across the points to set the opening at that point. You will need to physically hold (twist) the upper cam shaft to the full retard limit when doing this. Remember, if it worked OK before, but not now, something changed. Last edited by MikeK; 04-09-2017 at 10:39 AM.