Miss -Collective wisdom

[Karl]

Finally got the 34 back after I put a fan blade through the radiator and broke the valve cover. All back together but has developed an annoying miss worse at speed. On our trip we had 1800 miles of trouble free motoring (right up until the fan blade incident) No hint of a miss. My initial thought was an air leak when we replaced the valve cover . However vacuum gauge is steady at 17 inches with no movement and no evidence of any leak when I listen with my stethoscope.

My next option is the coil. The fan blade took out Skips coil top -and I replaced the coil with my old coil. Although this coil seemed ok before I wonder if this is at fault or alternatively installing it has altered the points in some way. I've epoxied up Skips coil and will reinstall this.

Any other ideas ? Karl;

[moefuzz]

Yes, coils should be air and water tight.

[petehoovie]

broke the "valve cover"???

[JSeery]

Think he might mean timing cover?

Note: Think Mart is it correct in the post below!

[Mart]

I think Karl is using the term "valve cover" for the inlet manifold. I'm not sure, but that may have been the term that Ford use in the parts manuals. They refer to the cam followers (lifters) as "pushrods". Another example of non intuitive naming.

Mart.

[Joe Immler]

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My bet is on the coil also. Can't beat Skips.

[JSeery]

I looked it up, 6520 Cover (valve chamber). So, not quite valve cover, but close.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Also, look into the distributor caps...they may contain some leftover water, anti-freeze, or dried tracks from the disaster.
I'd also hose out the innards of the distributor point area with brake cleaner for the same reason.
Yep, if you read the catalog you will find we have not only a valve cover but pushrods as well...

[Karl]

Thanks Bruce it would make sense that some water could have got into the distributor as there was a lot of water and steam floating round ! Tonight I will change out the coil and condensor and clean up the distributor caps and see how we go after that -Karl

[39topless]

You may as well go ahead and remove the distributor. Then do as Bruce suggested. With the distributor out you can easily rotate the rotor and, with the caps in place, make sure these all important connections are accurate.

[Karl]

I think I found it -The distributor looked ok. I replaced the coil /condensor with no improvement . Then I remembered from time to time I would get a very similar miss when the battery isolator switch on the battery post would vibrate loose and intermittently break connection. Although the switch appeared ok and tight it was very dusty from all the dirt roads we travelled on tour and I suspect that it was not making good contact despite being tight -Anyway removed it and the problem seems to be gone. Will just see how we go over the next few days

[scooder]

Karl, what elevation are you at? I'm asking due to your 17" vacuum reading. At sea level on a nice stock flathead I like to see 20-21". Glad you found the culprit for the miss. I'd be sending a coil to skip, then your ride should remain miss less.
Martin.

[Karl]

Originally Posted by scooder

Karl, what elevation are you at? I'm asking due to your 17" vacuum reading. At sea level on a nice stock flathead I like to see 20-21". Glad you found the culprit for the miss. I'd be sending a coil to skip, then your ride should remain miss less.
Martin.

Actually reading about 19 when I read the gauge correctly . We are at sea level I suspect that the timing might just be a tad retarded and advancing it a bit might help with the readings However up until now has been running so well I've left it alone

I've epoxied up Skips coil and reinstalled it -I have another coil on the way to him to do -In the meantime one of his coils damaged but repaired is still better than anything else I can use -Karl