stay running

[Woodie1]

We have a sedan that the engine was rebuilt for last year. It has about 1000 miles on the engine now. For some reason, every once in awhile the engine will quit when you come to a stop. I noticed last night that when I try to restart it acts like the battery is almost dead. It shows a charge all the time driving & it cranks over good when it's been setting for a time. I'm starting to think that the reason it stops running is because the battery is losing its charge. I had found last week that the bolts for the muffler clamp were loose. I have also been running with the idle a little faster than I would like because it quits running on occasion. The fuel level in the carb seems about right. I also removed some sediment from the gas filter on the firewall as well as in the bottom of the carb. I checked the jets to make sure they were clear also. Any ideas would be appreciated. It started running rough last night too. I'm headed out now to see what I can find.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

I would come closer to believing you have a wire connection that is loose. This could be anywhere from the starter switch, to the terminal box, to the ignition switch, -or even inside the distributor. Too many things to try to diagnose here without being able to visually scan the vehicle to see how it is equipped however just remember that if the charging system (generator or alternator) is working properly, then it should supply enough current to keep the engine running even if the battery were to become disconnected.

[katy]

I noticed last night that when I try to restart it acts like the battery is almost dead. It shows a charge all the time driving & it cranks over good when it's been setting for a time.

When you try to start it and it acts like the battery is almost dead try the hand crank and see if it cranks over normally or is very stiff.

[Woodie1]

At the present time the engine is very stiff. Not many miles on it.

[Purdy Swoft]

If the timing is a little too advanced the starter will kick back and act like the battery is almost dead when it is warm but will crank over good when the engine is cold .Chech initial timing and points gap .

[Jacksonlll]

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Make sure your spark lever is up when you try to restart. My guess is, you have an intake manifold , or carb flange air leak.

[Woodie1]

I always start with the spark rod up & move it down about half after it starts. I had both manifolds machine flat as a unit when I put the engine back together last year. I did find the manifold clamp loose last week & tightened that up. I was going to check the carb gaskets again this morning but I need to get away from it for awhile. I've chased air leaks before with no success. I've soaped a lot of the connections looking for bubbles but didn't find any. I did reset the timing again today, replaced the points due to a loose rub block & put another rotor on since the spring end was looking worn. I also removed wires in the connection box & cleaned corrosion & checked connections behind the dash panel. No loose connections anywhere.

[Jacksonlll]

With carb off, take a big file and clean up both flanges. Shiny everywhere. They do warp and let air in.

[Woodie1]

I will check the flanges.

[Purdy Swoft]

Vacume leaks at the manifold or carb flanges can cause the engine to stop running but won't cause the starter to drag when warm. The next time that the starter drags, turn the ignition switch off and see if the starter still drags . Of course the engine won't start with the switch turned off but if the starter doesn't drag , that will be a sure sign that the battery isn't the problem . If the distributor has been fooled with , the timing or points gap are probably the culpret . Factory specs for points gap is anywhere from eighteen to twenty two thousants. If the points gap is more than twenty two thousants it will have an advancing effect on the timing and can cause the starter to kick when warm and will sound like the battery is almost dead . I set initial timing with the trailing edge of the rotor tip pointing directly at the number one contact in the distributor cap with no clockwise backlash .

[Woodie1]

Sounds good Purdy Swoft.

[Farrell In Vancouver]

Check the pedal arms are not rubbing through the insulation and shorting out your power when you apply brakes or disengaged the clutch

[Railcarmover]

You say the engine is 'stiff'...try taking your hand crank and with the key off hand crank the engine when its cold.Then,try it when its hot,key off.If the effort to hand crank it when its hot is a lot harder than when its cold its possible you have something going on that's not electrical or fuel related.

[Woodie1]

We just got back from a 22 mile drive with the "A". It didn't quit when we got home but it was trying. I spent time yesterday leveling the carb mating surfaces using sand paper on a pane of glass. It didn't seem too bad as far as warpage. I also did the surface where the carb fastens to the intake manifold. I put all new gaskets in too even though I did them last summer. At this point I can't say for sure what was causing the engine to quit but it looks like all that I did has helped. Thanks for all the suggestions on what to check folks. Hopefully it won't give any more problems for a long time.

[aermotor]

Originally Posted by Woodie1

I always start with the spark rod up & move it down about half after it starts. I had both manifolds machine flat as a unit when I put the engine back together last year. I did find the manifold clamp loose last week & tightened that up. I was going to check the carb gaskets again this morning but I need to get away from it for awhile. I've chased air leaks before with no success. I've soaped a lot of the connections looking for bubbles but didn't find any. I did reset the timing again today, replaced the points due to a loose rub block & put another rotor on since the spring end was looking worn. I also removed wires in the connection box & cleaned corrosion & checked connections behind the dash panel. No loose connections anywhere.

You won't find bubbles from a vacuum leak. Spray starting fluid and listen for an increase in engine speed. Don't forget vacuum sucks and pressure blows.

John

[redmodelt]

How far do you have the GVA open? You could among other things be running too lean. You might need to be running with the GVA open more with a tight engine.

[old31]

Aside from starting fluid you can check for leaks with a propane torch. Flame off of course!

Turn on the torch aim it around the gaskets and flanges and if the rpm increase you found the culprit.

[Woodie1]

aermotor, thanks for the heads up about a vacuum. Didn't think of that.

[Woodie1]

Old31, I tried the propane trick & did not get any increase in rpms. The car quit a number of times on us today. I replaced the condenser when we got home. I feel like the coil or ignition switch are next in line.