Window regulator mechanisms

[Vanspeed]

Are there any ways of finding these parts for original regulators? They are at the end that attaches to the glass channel. One of the 4 coned washers turns, the rest are froze solid. Appears there were originally springs under them and they are pretty shot as well. Other than that, the regulators are in pretty good shape. What have you guys done?

[rich b]

I usually use another less desirable regulator (like 4 door rears) as a donor for repair parts, or buy a better regulator and use the original as a donor for other regulator repair.
One thing to watch for; there were sometimes multiple OEM suppliers besides the aftermarket replacements, so sometimes the parts are different. For the same reason
other make regulators such as Dodge and Plymouth may also have matching parts.

[G.M.]

Get in touch with Regulator Roy in New Jersey. Someone on here
may have his address. G.M.

[Drbrown]

Here is Roy ..... Regulator Roy - Window Regulators (856) 478-2527 New Jersey. Happy cranking !

[Vanspeed]

Just checked his web site and all he sells are NOS regulators. I really want to keep these, the price of 35-7 pickup regulators is pretty pricey. I know the easy way is to replace but I want to fix these. Has anybody repaired theirs?

[flatford8]

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As rich b said, if you dont want to replace them, you're going to have to get creative and use parts and pieces from other vehicles or make stuff yourself. I've found spring assortments in older hardware stores if there is any in your area. Good luck.....MARK

[325w]

The regulator it self is rusty. Soak it in vinegar for a few days. Brush it from time to time with a small metal Brissel brush. It will look like new in a few days. As said before get another regulator to get good parts of.

[rich b]

In the past, I bought a pair of NOS rear door regulators from Roy; and promptly used the springs, one winder gear and three of the track washers and springs to fix my early '35 coupe door regulators. Cheaper than one used driver's door regulator and I still have spare parts. Need to look at the big picture.

[SofaKing]

Originally Posted by Vanspeed

Just checked his web site and all he sells are NOS regulators. I really want to keep these, the price of 35-7 pickup regulators is pretty pricey. I know the easy way is to replace but I want to fix these. Has anybody repaired theirs?

I had bent/ twisted arms, rollers, and window tracks, rust was not a major issue on the regulators. I have never tried molasses, but would be willing to were it not for having already bought evaporust. I bent everything back into shape and made sure the rollers were perpendicular to the arms and in the same plane so they stay in the tracks; they seem to work well, awaiting new glass right now but they worked with the broken panes fine.
To straighten the rollers I used a wrench, socket and hammer. The wrench is used as an anvil to straighten the roller edge.

Once you get the rollers free you may be able to wind new springs around them. The repair kits I saw had a roller axel that is held in with a nut rather than swaged. Seems like they would eventually come loose.

[johnboy34]

It only takes a little grinding on the back staking to drive those pins out, then fix or replace the springs and washers ( thats where other regulators come in handy ). Clamp them back in and spot weld the back of of the pin.

[Ken/Alabama]

Would like to see a picture of the whole regulator I have two army foot lockers full of regulators,mostly Ford . I might have one.

[russcc]

Also you may want to check with Ray Helgers, he has quite a collection of them, and he is always reasonable. 401 635 4849, RI

[nospartsman]

Originally Posted by Vanspeed

Just checked his web site and all he sells are NOS regulators. I really want to keep these, the price of 35-7 pickup regulators is pretty pricey. I know the easy way is to replace but I want to fix these. Has anybody repaired theirs?

I have as many of those rollers as you need for free, but I think if the photo you show is the regulator you need them for, you are going to have quality of gear issues. Does it cycle through its full range of motion?
Depending on the price you were quoted for NOS 1935-37 Pickup window regulators, I sold my last pair of NOS for $150 pr, in 2016 I wouldn't call that pricey. I now only have one NOS passenger side. Although if you're 30 years old or younger with family obligations I would agree $75 for a window regulator could be expensive.
Based on your photo that regulator looks to be scrap, someone on the FB would probably give you a cleaner used pair.
The book shown is a copy of the hardware and trim book, it shows all the window regulators from Model A thru 1938, and a lot of other small parts. Available from all the repro dealers.
I forgot to mention, in the second photo the piece of tape is pointing to a small notch that is unique to the 35-37 PU window regulator, the 1935 passenger car regulator looks similar with a much larger notch in that location.

[Tom Walker]

Has anyone tried the regulator repair kits from Then and Now Automotive (div. Of Antique Parts Cellar)?
I need new rollers etc fir the 32. Their kits look like they are NOS, and are $19.99.
They came up top of google search.

[Vanspeed]

Yes the regulators travel through their full motion. They are not bent just have some rust on them. I would not call them scrap at all. I am in my 30's and do not make much money so whenever I can save money I try to.

[Kurt in NJ]

I have a conv sedan, the regulators--and latches are less common than most, even though i patched up the gears ,winders and springs I didn't stop looking for NOS, i got the trim and hardware book so i would know what exactly I was looking for buying NOS in the 25--35$ range at Hershey, Ebay, -----then I sold the repaired and worn parts for more (the bidding got so high on one of the used parts it paid for all the NoS ones)

no matter how much you work on "fixing" a used regualtor or latch they won't work as smooth or effortlesly as a regreased NOS one

[nospartsman]

Originally Posted by Vanspeed

Yes the regulators travel through their full motion. They are not bent just have some rust on them. I would not call them scrap at all. I am in my 30's and do not make much money so whenever I can save money I try to.

When a regulator is moved on the work bench under no load is a whole different situation then when it's got to work pushing up with the weight of the glass and the binding of the channels.
I did agree in my comment, that depending on your family situation a NOS $75 window regulator could be considered expensive.
Window regulators and door latches are the two most used mechanical items after the drive train. Door latches lend themselves to repair, window regs not so easily. The teeth wear to a sharp point causing slippage, welding and reshaping each tooth falls into the category of "Pennywise and Pound foolish".
My window regulator is not for sale, I'm not trying to sell my parts, in fact I offered to give you all the rollers you need for free and they're from NOS regulators. I hope your repair turns out good.

[SofaKing]

Free is as cheap as it gets; very decent of you Nospartsman. Assuming I have this assembled correctly, (39PU), {I never laid eyes on one before 2 months ago and have never seen it assembled}, the roller appears to carry no weight. It looks to me that the stud simply skids along inside the track and the roller keeps it under spring tension so it does not fall out. So if Vanspeed's can be cleaned of rust sufficient for the stud and roller to be installed on the track, it ought to work. Given the corrosion on the spring, (and roller), replacement would not be a waste in my opinion, especially if they are free. A fine wire spring cannot afford to lose much cross section to corrosion.

[nospartsman]

Originally Posted by SofaKing

Free is as cheap as it gets; very decent of you Nospartsman. Assuming I have this assembled correctly, (39PU), {I never laid eyes on one before 2 months ago and have never seen it assembled}, the roller appears to carry no weight. It looks to me that the stud simply skids along inside the track and the roller keeps it under spring tension so it does not fall out. So if Vanspeed's can be cleaned of rust sufficient for the stud and roller to be installed on the track, it ought to work. Given the corrosion on the spring, (and roller), replacement would not be a waste in my opinion, especially if they are free. A fine wire spring cannot afford to lose much cross section to corrosion.

That arm doesn't look installed correctly, the roller should be inside of the track of the window channel. The arm and roller are slid in on one end of the channel, then the other arm is slid in from the other end. When installed properly you can't pull the arms away from the channel. If I am interpreting your photo correctly.

[SofaKing]

Originally Posted by nospartsman

That arm doesn't look installed correctly, the roller should be inside of the track of the window channel. The arm and roller are slid in on one end of the channel, then the other arm is slid in from the other end. When installed properly you can't pull the arms away from the channel. If I am interpreting your photo correctly.

I don't want to hi-jack this thread but it seems we are still, more or less, on topic. I took another picture that better shows how I assembled the stud and roller into the track. It was the only way I found they could be assembled, the roller won't fit in the track. It's possible I have the wrong parts that came with the truck or that I just did it wrong. Both sides look alike and both windows did not crank up/down. I assumed the bent regulator arms were a result of the stud/roller coming out of the track and someone trying to muscle it.

If this is the correct installation, then Vanspeed's regulators are not necessarily beyond repair, at least at the roller end.