Throw out bearing spring replacement

[ossieandgeorge]

My 1929 Model A throw out bearing does not pull back all the way when I release the clutch. It moves back freely by hand when I move it through the inspection plate.
Can I replace the spring through the inspection hole?

[Jacksonlll]

Yes, but that might not pull it all the way up. Take a good look at it before you take things apart.

[ossieandgeorge]

I also greased the throwout bearing slider and it moves freely

[Tom Endy]

It can be done. I have a pair of long nose vice grips. The difficulty is looping one end of the spring through the hole in the transmission front bearing retainer. the vice grips will ensure you don't drop it. Hooking the spring to the throw out bearing collar is the easy part.

Tom Endy

[GRutter]

It can be done. You will likely drop it several times before getting it hooked.
Loop a string to it through one of the coils before you start, so you can easily retrieve it and start again. After hooking on the bearing retainer and throw out bearing collar, just pull the string back out.

[ossieandgeorge]

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Thanks folks. Any other pointers welcomed. Until I get the spring swapped out, no clutch adjustment is possible because the slider returns to random spots upon releasing the clutch petal. Off to pick up a new spring.

[Patrick L.]

' havoc(and expense). '

???????

[GRutter]

You might want to check your clutch linkage while you're at it.. especially the adjustment shaft & trunion. Look for wear in the clutch pedal where the trunion fits. It's not uncommon to see the holes in the clutch pedal where the trunion fits completely worn out. Adjust the linkage for approximately 1" of free pedal play before the throwout bearing engages with the clutch fingers.

[ossieandgeorge]

Thank GRutter. I just picked up parts as a lot was worn(new main pedal shaft and pedal bushings, spacer washer, new collar, new trunion and shaft).
QUESTION: How much up and down travel/movement should the clutch arm on the bell housing have when moved manually(with adjusting rod/shaft disconnected)??

[GRutter]

Glad you checked your linkage. With everything disconnected you will have a lot of travel of the clutch arm. You are just moving (rotating) the forks at this point. When you put it all back together you will adjust the trunion so that you have approx 1" of pedal travel before engaging the clutch release fingers.

[Patrick L.]

There should not be too much 'up and down' bushing clearance movement. I think thats what your asking. The pedals should work fully and freely. Those bushings shouldn't be too loose, but, should still work fine if they are a bit sloppy. It is a lot of work to change them.
I'd recommend installing the spring, adjusting the free-play to 1.0-1.5", greasing the bushings and see how it works.

[ossieandgeorge]

Thanks guys. Tomorrow I will get back at it. Not sure how to pull the pin that holds the Brake/Clutch Pedal Shaft in place. My shaft is highly worn so I think I should replace it.
Looks like the mushroom head holding pin is pushed in from the top with no way to drive it out from underneath. Tricks for that one???
Sorry for all the questions...I'm only 3 weeks into ownership.

[Patrick L.]

If I remember correctly the pin is tapered. Look at the new one.

[larrys40]

The reproduction springs have too long a tail on them.
Do yourself a favor and cut the tails shorter before you try to install. Otherwise you will be fighting it tremendously . I use a heavy cutter or you can hack off some with a cutoff wheel
Larry Shepard

[chrs1961815]

To replace the pedal shaft you will have to have the trans out of the car. You have to have access to the inside as the pin will probably have to have heat put to it and it might need to be driven out from the outside depending on how it was put in. A bandaid to a worn pedal shaft is to put new bushings in your pedals which will take up some of the wear if you don't ream them. Just a fix until the winter.

[ossieandgeorge]

Yes, the new one is tappered

[ossieandgeorge]

Thanks Larrys40. They did look long. I will cut them back as suggested.
I really hope the weak old spring is what's causing for the clutch adjusting issue(throw out bearing slider never returning all the way back after clutching)
The loose petals/bushings are probably not the main issue but we will see.

[larrys40]

Make sure your pedals and hub are free . If there’s lots of old grease and or gardeners grease take a little brake clean and spray around the clutch hub ( pedal depress) toward the back end. Do what you can to make sure hub is sliding freely and put dress grease into hub .
If you drop the spring don’t despair , have a magnet ready .
God luck !!
Larry

[Patrick L.]

Drop the spring ?
As Tom said, vise grips.
Don't trust the vise grips ?, add a string.

[ossieandgeorge]

So the good news. The new spring is installed!!!! Used the string for safety, hooked the back end on by hand and the front end using vise grips. I did have to cut a bit off the front hook to get it on. The new spring helped a lot to pull the throw out bearing slider all the way back allowing for a better clutch adjustment. The old spring was spent.
All your suggestions were very helpful!!! I could not load pics. into the tread. I added them to my profile.
Bad news is there is still a lot of play/wobble on the clutch pedal where it is attached to the clutch/brake shaft. It causes the pedal to bind up a bit when I release it not allowing it to return to its adjusted "resting" position when not being used.
I cannot get the pin out that holds the shaft collar in place to put new bushings in.
Tapping out(as hard as I dare hit it) did not move it. I also cut off both ends of the pin flush with collar and tried to tap it out again without success. ugh... Ideas???