Lost my points spark

[g8t gr&dads A]

I have lost the spark at my points. I have been using Les Andrews troubleshooting book to figure it out and one step calls for checking continuity between the movable point arm and ground. My results show a closed circuit. Following it back the lower plate also shows a closed circuit between the ignition cable and ground. The only way I can get rid of this closed circuit is to unscrew the ignition cable from the distributor. The ignition cable and switch passes all the tests out lined in the Andrews book. It seems to me the problem should be in the lower plate and ignition cable area but I can't find it. Any ideas what I am missing? Thanks!

[John Butts in CT]

I had a very embarassing moment a few years ago. Have you checked to make sure that the coil to distributor wire is SECURELY connected at both ends? Make sure that the distributor "pigtail" is not grounding out, and that the ignition switch cable is not screwed too tightly into the distributor.

Also... be sure that your ignition switch is on. It's amazing what a few keys on the "wrong" side of the ring can do. (Don't ask me how I know)

Good luck. Let us know what you discover.

[Preacher]

sounds like you are screwing the ignition cable into the distributor too far. when doing a rebuild I ALWAYS glue a 1 inch square piece of rubber inside the casting to help prevent this.

[Model A Speedster]

You might try isolating the ignition switch and wiring around it with a "jumper" wire. Do this several times - if you have spark, then you have found the problem. How about the condenser? Those things are like politicians; you can't trust them. Maybe the coil? Ignition problems can be a bear to diagnose, but YOU CAN DO IT! You just have to keep trying.

[Ray A from PA]

I agree with Preacher, had the same problem at one time, give it a try.

[Mitch//pa]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

if you have an inline fuse make sure it is not blown

[Purdy Swoft]

If you are using the so called modern points, I would bet that is where the problem is. All of the vendors have a load of them and the pressure is on to use them by some.

[g8t gr&dads A]

Thanks to all the great people who replied. Gives me new ideas. I think the rubber pad would be a good place to start, it sounds simple enough. Along this line in Andrews Mechanics Handbook Vol I on page 1-106, step 14 it states: "After the distributor has been locked in place, place a small piece of paper between the point contacts (insulator). With an ohmmeter check continuity from the point arm to the upper plate (or any ground point). There should be no continuity (open circuit)." I have assumed that this is done with the ignition off because it does not say to turn it on and then in the next step 15 it is stated to turn it on. But as I look at how the switch works doesn't it actually ground the points when it is off? So, this test should show continuity (closed circuit)? Am I missing something here? Thanks for helping me get this straight.

[700rpm]

Unscrew your ignition cable from the dist., turn the key on, and scratch the ignition cable contact end on a head bold. If you get spark, you know the problem is somewhere in the distributor. I suspect you have unintentionally grounded it somewhere inside. If you have another distributor, try that one and see if you get different results.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by g8t gr&dads A

Thanks to all the great people who replied. Gives me new ideas. I think the rubber pad would be a good place to start, it sounds simple enough. Along this line in Andrews Mechanics Handbook Vol I on page 1-106, step 14 it states: "After the distributor has been locked in place, place a small piece of paper between the point contacts (insulator). With an ohmmeter check continuity from the point arm to the upper plate (or any ground point). There should be no continuity (open circuit)." I have assumed that this is done with the ignition off because it does not say to turn it on and then in the next step 15 it is stated to turn it on. But as I look at how the switch works doesn't it actually ground the points when it is off? So, this test should show continuity (closed circuit)? Am I missing something here? Thanks for helping me get this straight.

You are correct, the original popout switch DOES ground the points in the off position.