Removing Paint from Radiator

[dmaxweb]

What's the best way to remove paint from a radiator?

[MikeK]

Paint stripper. After dousing the radiator with the stripper, put it in a plastic garbage bag and let it work overnight. Then hose it down.

[dmaxweb]

Originally Posted by MikeK

Paint stripper. After dousing the radiator with the stripper, put it in a plastic garbage bag and let it work overnight. Then hose it down.

Any particular brand?

[H. L. Chauvin]

Get grease off first then apply "Savogran Liquid Kutzit" which is about as popular as "Bayer" aspirin.

Don't be surprised if you find a second coat of grease under the first coat of paint ...................... & a second coat of paint under the second coat of grease, etc.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

I have a hot caustic tank that we run in the 180 degree range at times, and I have often wondered how a radiator would react in that environment. The caustic is "Hydes" on paint however it is also tough on soft metals too. I would suspect the solder would have a difficult time surviving but maybe not. Thoughts??

[Tom Wesenberg]

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I think the solder would be history.

The radiator came clean on the inside with my 3 day Cascade and then the 30 day vinegar treatment. I was worried about the radiator and head gasket, but they did OK. I'm sure the radiator wouldn't survive the caustic tank however. I used to use a hot tank at my job in the 80's, and it did a great job on cast iron and steel parts, but not for any bearings and soft metals.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I think the solder would be history.

The radiator came clean on the inside with my 3 day Cascade and then the 30 day vinegar treatment. I was worried about the radiator and head gasket, but they did OK. I'm sure the radiator wouldn't survive the caustic tank however. I used to use a hot tank at my job in the 80's, and it did a great job on cast iron and steel parts, but not for any bearings and soft metals.

Yes, that has pretty much been our experiences too. Mike's thoughts are likely the best solution for most hobbyists.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi dmax,

Humble opinion & FWIW, whether for improving radiator cosmetics, or radiator function:

1. About (2) or more coats of heavy oil base paint on the "outside" of a Model A radiator, including said paint on tops & bottoms of all of the thin metal exterior radiator fins, is more harmful for reducing radiator cooling capacity than having approximately the same mil thickness of grease, dirt &mineral deposit build up on just the "insides" of the radiator tubes.

2. Even though time consuming, removing "all" of the old thick paint on "all" of the radiator's exterior, (tube & fins), & providing a very thin coating, (similar to "Eastwood's" thin radiator paint), can increase a Model A's radiator's cooling ability.

3. Also, in humid areas, to avoid future rust & having to paint the rusted steel radiator frames twice or more later, not a bad idea to prepare & paint all exterior "steel" frame work around the radiator with a far more permanent coating such as POR 15.

4. For a Model A radiator project like this, cleaning, flushing, removing old paint, & removing & reinstalling the radiator consumes about 99.5% of one's time.

5. Applying the exterior coatings consumes about 0.5% of one's time -- very quick; hence, it may appear prudent to some Model A owners to apply the best proven exterior coatings only "once" in one's life time which can last for generations to come.

6. Personally, I am not at all a fan of doing such time consuming chores twice in my life time when it can be avoided by spending just a few bucks more to obtain better materials to do it once, as opposed to "trying" some old rattle can paint stuff on one's shelf -- then one can go fishing, driving one's Model A or whatever & leave that particular radiator project alone.

Hope this helps someone in the future.