Water Pump Removal

[Jack Shaft]

To prevent thread galling and insure easy removal use neverseize on the bolt threads.

[chap52]

Or you could just remove the hood and while you have it off do other little projects and clean-ups that are easier to get to. Chap

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by Fred K OR

It also may depend on the type of radiator you have. My radiator is a heavy duty one and the water pump nut up front if 1/8 inch from the radiator. But never had it overheat!

Excellent point, I didn't think about how thick your core is. My Berg core is as big as would fit, not a lot extra room left. That explains a lot of differing experiences.

[John Dayhuff]

Just replaced mine a couple of weeks ago and removed the hood completely since I wanted to do the pump and some other things under the hood. I put in a leak less pump and so far it is just that, not a drop of water and I love it. I did have to undo the two rods from the radiator and got it forward just enough and the pump came out no problem.

[Bruce of MN]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

When I did it years ago I loosened the rods, used a short piece of wood to support the hood (from head to hood), simple.
Paul in CT

Apparently, I copied you:

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[aojo]

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Im with Russ/40 as I have about 5/8" clearance between the radiator and the pump shaft. I run a 4 blade fan and there is no way on my car to remove it to replace the pump without disconnecting the radiator support rods, disconnect the upper radiator hose, and loosen the radiator mounting nuts. Only then could I pull the radiator forward to give enough clearance to remove the fan and pull assembly to get to the pump..

[Jeff M]

What’s the best way to remove the pump studs for the fake bolts? Tried the double nut but it didn’t work.

[Russ/40]

That's a job best done when the head is off, but that convenience exists rarely. Try. A good penetrating oil soak overnight. Then try a pair of vice grips. Pray they come out without breaking. Heat helps a lot too.

[larrys40]

Originally Posted by Russ/40

I cant imagine that. Removing the stud/bolts will not totally eliminate the need to tilt the radiator forward, as the impeller needs to clear the head.

I have done many, countless pumps and in my opinion after doing several hundred and more the newfake bolts really don’t effect if the head clears or not as the pump needs to come out to clear the impeller even on the pivot the pump itself has already cleared the studs for that to happen. Some A’s have more clearance between radiator and fan than others . I agree that the hood should be removed of you need to pull the radiator forward .

If it has a4 blade that is a riveted I have posted this before but it is much less evasive to the car (electrical wiring and more) so I use a sawzall to cut the pump in half. A towel and air compressor blow gun can be used for quick cleanup.
Trust me, it works well, and my customers appreciate my charging less for doing it so quickly. You would be replacing the pump with a new one and new 2 blade fan so no big deal.

Larry Shepard