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Old 08-04-2020, 09:39 AM   #1
FL&WVMIKE
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Default Engine Break In

This came up in another thread, but thought it deserved a wider audience, as it applies to much more than the scope of that thread. This is a comprehensive post about break in. Ring seal is BIG. Lake Speed from Total Seal is an oil specialist and piston ring guy. Excellent resource.

Break In Oils
Lake Speed at Total Seal goes over the in/outs of break in oils. There's more to it than ZDDP. Some additives are NOT good for break in. They do not recommend a specific brand, but let you know what is GOOD for break in, and what is NOT. They also show a link for test results of a bunch of oils commonly used for break in, as well as specific break in oils. VERY good watch.

This is the link to the oil analysis. Below that is a video showing what oil is good and bad for break in, and below that is a video on proper break in procedure.

https://www.speediagnostix.com/s/Bre...il-Report1.pdf

Dos and Don'ts of Break-In (oils, etc)
https://youtu.be/teDgJgPeeeU

Proper break in procedure
https://youtu.be/6XEYJrSqHtw

Driven BR40 Break-In Oil $7.99/qt
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jgr-03706?rrec=true

Lucas 30W Break in oil $31.99/5 quart jug ($6.40/qt)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luc-10631-1
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Old 08-04-2020, 10:46 AM   #2
Tim Ayers
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Default Re: Engine Break In

Wow. Thank you so much for this!
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Old 08-04-2020, 03:11 PM   #3
supereal
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Default Re: Engine Break In

At our shop we do a run in on all rebuilt engines in our test jig. We use Shell Rotella oil to protect the new bearing surfaces with extra zinc, and hold a steady speed to aid the bearing surfaces until they are run into tolerance. High revs of a tight engine will cause
serious damage.
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Old 08-04-2020, 04:47 PM   #4
FL&WVMIKE
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Default Re: Engine Break In

Quote:
Originally Posted by supereal View Post
At our shop we do a run in on all rebuilt engines in our test jig. We use Shell Rotella oil to protect the new bearing surfaces with extra zinc, and hold a steady speed to aid the bearing surfaces until they are run into tolerance. High revs of a tight engine will cause
serious damage.
Running it in without a load for too long will keep the rings from properly seating. They need the heat/cylinder pressure to properly break in, and not just glaze over. Improper break in on the rings will keep the cylinder from ever sealing properly. You'll see a lot more blow-by.

High rpm and low load is the worst way to do it. Moderate load and rpm is key. A test stand is good for initial warm up, and to check for leaks, issues, etc. But, the engine needs installed in a vehicle and put under load as soon as possible for best results.

The guys in the videos are at the top of their field. I'm not just stating my opinion... I'm relaying good advice from those who know best.

Good Luck
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