Bronze Bushings, removing and installing professionally

[34FordFabricator]

Here is how I remove and install bronze bushings. I have 35 years as a machinist and have done this thousands of times with perfect results. The photos I used are of a piece of machinery but this can be applied to any antique auto water pump, distributor, or generator starter end plate where bronze bushings are used. I never ever use a hammer, punch, drift, bushing driver, or slap hammer. These tools can damage a casting and are not necessary to do a quality job. The bushing I am pulling had a 5/8" inside dimension and has 8 thousands wear. So its shaft moves from side to side in the bushing. Bushing needs to be replaced. First to remove the bushing I use a tap to thread the bushing half way through. For a 5/8" inside dimension bushing I use a 11/16"-11 tap to do the job. Next I thread in my homemade puller into the threads I made in the bushing. See my second and third photos. Next I rotate the nut and the top of the tool and it just pulls the bushing straight out. See the fourth and fifth photo. Because of the way the tool is made the bushing comes out straight and smooth. The new bushing must have a 2-1/2 thousands interference fit. I use the next tool I made to pull the bushing in. The tool should have a loose fit in the bushing and have hefty washers on either end. Hold one nut with a wrench and turn the other and it will push it in nicely. Do not put oil on the bushing before you pull it in as it must have a good friction fit so it does not move after installation. My last photo shows it pulled in to place flush with the top. After done you may have to ream it to size because it may collapse just a bit and that is very normal. I hope this helps in the restoration of your car. There is no need to pay a machine shop lots of money when you can do this yourself.
Bill Monzo

[19Fordy]

Thanks for posting that info.
Wish I had a lathe.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Thanks for posting that info.
Wish I had a lathe.

I used to as well, and ended up buying a Chinese made "mini-lathe" for about $800. I spent a lot of time making my selection, and it paid off well. The unit I bought has an eight inch "swing" and can handle pieces up to 17" long. It will handle anything I want to do with ease. I posted about this on the H.A.M.B. when they had a "Lathe Thread" going and everybody ignored me. Not all of us have the floor space for a used South Bend, nor do most of us have 3 phase power in their shop. I have had mine for two years now, and it can do anything my limited skills can throw at it.

To the O/P : Have you ever had the puller pull out of the threaded bushing instead of the bushing itself being pulled out? It sounds like a neat way to do it, but that would worry me.

[34FordFabricator]

Because of the tap size I used it bites very well into the bronze bushing. It always pulled the bushing out straight away.
Bill

[texas webb]

I like it,thanks.

[alchemy]

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I'm thinking even a guy with no lathe could make these tools. Nice bolts and thick washers could be used for a majority of the puller and pusher.

34 Fab, do you have any tricks to make sure the bushing goes in straight? Lots of times I find the new bushing is so very tight, and using no oil would make it even harder to go in.

[Ian NZ]

What is the best way to lubricate oillite bushes, I usually fit the bush and then block one end of the bush and fit a bit of flat rubber over the bush and then hydraulic the oil into it with the thumb and leave it overnight full of oil .

[34FordFabricator]

Alchemy, the bushing must not have any more than a 2-1/2 thousands interference fit. Second if the two heavy spacers are machined parallel and concentric they will automatically push the bushing in straight.
Bill

[Fordors]

If a bushing is in fact an Oilite bushing it will have had oil impregnated in it during the manufacturing process. Oilite is made by a sintered metal process where powdered metal is compacted to a low density leaving porosity that will hold and retain oil. When the bushings exit the sintering furnace they will be cooled then placed in a vacuum and oil will fill the voids in the bushing. If the bushing and mating shaft is running cool only a small amount of oil is at the surface, but as the surfaces heat up more oil comes out of the pores to lube things and then it is drawn back in as things cool. Also keep in mind that sizing an Oilite bushing with reaming could close the pores and affect the lubricity.

[burnette]

very clever ! thanks for showing.

[34fordy]

Originally Posted by 34FordFabricator

Alchemy, the bushing must not have any more than a 2-1/2 thousands interference fit. Second if the two heavy spacers are machined parallel and concentric they will automatically push the bushing in straight.
Bill

Does the diameter of the bushing have a relationship to the amount of interference?

[fortyfords]

Thanks for the good tip

[JM 35 Sedan]

Bill, thank you for sharing your information for replacing bronze bushings.
I have used a similar procedure for replacing throttle shaft bushings when rebuilding carburetors.

[burnette]

you can also put new bushing in a deep freezer ,it will help a bit.

[1948F-1Pickup]

Originally Posted by 34fordy

Does the diameter of the bushing have a relationship to the amount of interference?

In my experience, the type of bushing material and the thickness of the
bushing material can definitely have an effect. What you're pressing the bushing into has an effect too. (if the body is cast iron 3 inches thick, it's
different than pressing a bushing into a chunk of aluminum)

[russcc]

How about pushing or drawing a bushing in the blind hole of a generator end plate ?