Brake questions

[gridleak]

Have a couple of question about brakes:
What are "PILLS" I see them mentioned occasionally?
When centering brake shoes mention is made about moving the roller bracket. It looks solid to me.
How far should the seal be seated into the hub?

[tbirdtbird]

they are used if the front actuating rod (the vertical rod inside the kingpin) is too short.

You will know it is too short if you are unable to set up the actuating lever correctly. It should tilt forward about 15 degrees. I like to think in terms of a clock face: The lever wants to be at the 11:00 position if you are looking at the L front brake drum; it should be at the 1:00 position if looking at the R front brake drum.
This is determined with all play out of the arm/rod)

If these arms are vertical (noon position) then you will be over-center when applying the brakes and they will not work since the long rods to the brake cross shaft won't have the correct angle.

Lots written here on this. Search Purdy's posts he has written extensively on this

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by gridleak

Have a couple of question about brakes:
What are "PILLS" I see them mentioned occasionally?
When centering brake shoes mention is made about moving the roller bracket. It looks solid to me.
How far should the seal be seated into the hub?

When centering the rear brakes, the easy way to go is by using Flathead Teds square centering pins in place of the round roller pins.These pins are listed in Snyders catalog on page A-103 , part number A-2045-FHT .You won't need the whole kit, just the pins will help a lot in centering the rear brakes and no welding of the tracks will be needed. Unless you want to center by trial and error , which is possible , for any real acuracy you will need the centering tool. Snyders brake centering tool is listed on page A-100 , Part number A-2020.

The rear hub seal needs to be pushed into the hub just far enouch to be able to install the snap ring. Most of the seals that I've seen are a too tight fit and the outer circumferance has to be reduced by sanding to even be able to install. I've had good luck by using an old rear hub bearing as a driver and hammering the the old bearing to walk the new seal in place .

[Mitch//pa]

to add to what purdy said FYI brattons just came out with a new rear hub seal driver that installs the seal properly... its not in the catalogue yet only online

[hardtimes]

Save your self the 19.95 + tax and effort, by just using a ballpeen hammer and a 1/2" rachet extension, or an old king pin. Lay the pin across the seal (on top of the seal) and tap gently/firmly , all the while turning the pin, until started. Then evenly hammer it down to hub height and to desired to install ring. Has been done easily this way forever.

[Mitch//pa]

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Originally Posted by hardtimes

Save your self the 19.95 + tax and effort, by just using a ballpeen hammer and a 1/2" rachet extension, or an old king pin. Lay the pin across the seal (on top of the seal) and tap gently/firmly , all the while turning the pin, until started. Then evenly hammer it down to hub height and to desired to install ring. Has been done easily this way forever.

yep it can be done many many ways as we all know
just putting the addtl info out there

[CarlG]

The few times I had to do this, I used one of these:

[Purdy Swoft]

Carl, Isn't that the driver for the outer seal for the axle, inside the rear end housing ?

[CarlG]

Purdy, You are correct. I did get that when I was replacing the seals/bearings in the torque tube. Same seal on the axle.

[Purdy Swoft]

Without checking, I thought that it looked like the one that I have for the axle seals .