Reinstalling the distributor

[Tom in SW VA]

I sent my distributor off to be rebuilt and now I am ready to reinstall it.

I have a couple of questions:

1. I was told that I should not turn the engine over until the distributor is reinstalled. In other words, the cam should remain in the same position it was when it was removed. Is that correct?

2. When installing the distributor, how do you match the distributor insert with the cam slot? How can I turn the distributor insert if the cam slot is not to be moved? Can I rotate the rotor in the distributor?

I am thanking you in advance for your help.

Tom

[Tom in SW VA]

Note: It is a four bolt, helmet-type distributor.

[Joe AZ]

What I do is to loosely bolt the distributor on, so the distributor tang just makes contact with the front of the cam. Then, with mild pressure on the front of the distributor, rotate the rotor until the tang engages in the cam. This ensures proper indexing.
Joe

[Brendan]

turn the rotor, be shure that you got the notch into the grove of the cam before you tighten it up. also make shure that the distributor sits flush on the timing cover

[ford3]

if im badly mistaken the slot in the front of the cam is off set like the tang on the dist, it is also off set, so you cant install it out of time

[JM 35 Sedan]

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Another suggestion I have read here, but have not tried yet, is to temporarily use two studs in place of distributor bolts to guide distributor in place while you turn rotor enough to align tang into camshaft slot. Then put one bolt in place to hold distributor while you remove each stud and replace with other two mounting bolts. I think this would work really well. If you are not worried about originality, the three mounting bolts could be replaced with studs and nuts. This would probably make distributor removal/installation a snap.

[Terry,OH]

You can turn the engine over without the distributor, but there is no need to, when installing the distributor. JM suggestion of using studs is a good idea. They don't have to be too long, 3-4" . Look at the slot on the front of the cam and see if you can determine where the off set slot is at and rotate the tang of the distributor to match as close as possible. Put the gasket on the studs and then slide the distributor on the studs. Then do what Joe AZ suggest. The distributor should fall into the slot without force, remove one stud at a time and install bolts.

[4dFord/SC]

Good advice from all of the above. I would only add be patient and RELAX--it's really not hard to do

[Frank Miller]

Not turning the engine over applies to a top mount distributor you have removed and will replace and have marked the rotor position so that it is timed approximately close to where it will start. Many experienced mechanics are not familiar with the front distributor installation. In a few years many mechanics will not be familiar with any distributor installation.

[ken ct]

Originally Posted by Frank Miller

Not turning the engine over applies to a top mount distributor you have removed and will replace and have marked the rotor position so that it is timed approximately close to where it will start. Many experienced mechanics are not familiar with the front distributor installation. In a few years many mechanics will not be familiar with any distributor installation.

LOL,LOL Frank read his second post. He has a 4 bolt Helmet job. They can be installed 180 off by a Dum,Dum,result BROKEN HOUSING. ken ct. Happy NY.

[ken ct]

Originally Posted by Frank Miller

Not turning the engine over applies to a top mount distributor you have removed and will replace and have marked the rotor position so that it is timed approximately close to where it will start. Many experienced mechanics are not familiar with the front distributor installation. In a few years many mechanics will not be familiar with any distributor installation.

Not many younger people 20-40 yrs. old know what a Carburetor is. All they know is fuel injection. LOL ken ct.

[jimTN]

Ken has it right, you can get it on wrong and break it. It would not go easily but when forced, pow. Do as explained above and I find it easier to twist the dist back and forth a little to seat it up. It should fit absolutely snug without bolts when it is correctly aligned.

[sunshine]

Take a couple of bolts the same thread as your dist. bolts cut the heads off to about 2 inches round off cut ends.. Insert them in dist.bolt holes . slide the dist. on these studs ,if the dist. tang is not aligned with cam it will not go up flush , now turn the dist. rotor until the dist, goes up flush.install the bolts in the empty holes remove the alignment bolts , install the remaining bolts. SUNSHINE

[Tom in SW VA]

Thanks, everyone. Does anyone know the exact size of the distributor to block bolts? I need to buy another one anyway. (Fine or course thread?)

[Andy]

Threaded holes in cast iron will always be course thread. That fact come in handy sometimes. I think they are 5/16".

[ford38v8]

The temporary studs need to be long enough to access easily with the distributor in place. JM suggests that studs could be used permanently here, but there is a very good reason why the bolts are better:

Consider changing out a distributor by the side of the road in cold wet weather at night. Nuff said?

[uncle max]

These are special shouldered bolts to maintain exact timing!

Originally Posted by Tom in SW VA

Thanks, everyone. Does anyone know the exact size of the distributor to block bolts? I need to buy another one anyway. (Fine or course thread?)

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by Tom in SW VA

Thanks, everyone. Does anyone know the exact size of the distributor to block bolts? I need to buy another one anyway. (Fine or course thread?)

Uncle Max is correct, the bolts that hold the distributor to the timing gear cover are special shouldered bolts, Ford part number 48-12148, 5/16"-18 threads x 0.90" long. The aligning shoulder diameter is 0.316" - 0.320".
If studs were used, as I mentioned in an earlier post, they should be 5/16"-18 threads at each end with a non threaded aligning center section having a diameter of 0.316" - 0.320". Total length would need to be determined.

[Tom in SW VA]

Originally Posted by uncle max

These are special shouldered bolts to maintain exact timing!

Uncle Max: Where do I get these shouldered bolts? What is a good source?

Tom

[V8COOPMAN]

Try Roy Nacewicz @:

http://www.fordscript.com/ford_bolts/products.html