The Ford Barn

truesdaleg · 08-15-2018, 11:52 PM

Can a Model A connecting rod be replaced without removing the head or the engine from the car, like Tom Joad did on the 1926 Hudson in The Grapes of Wrath?

Kurt in NJ · 08-15-2018, 11:58 PM

Yes, but it does require some wiggling ---I changed out a #3 on my car using right angle snap ring pliers----most likely original centerlocks pins won't be able to be removed,
pulled the piston as far down as possible, rotate 45 degrees, by grabbing the end of the pin with snap ring pliers and wiggling in unison with the rod the pin can be moved over enough

truesdaleg · 08-16-2018, 02:48 AM

Sounds interesting. Maybe I’ll try it.

I’ve got a bad rod knock, and I have been too lazy to fix it. I’ve got another engine to rebuild and put in 29 Roadster, but no telling when I will get around to doing that. I’ve just been running it around town on three cylinders for a couple of years.

truesdaleg · 08-16-2018, 02:51 AM

Has anyone else had any experience trying to do this?

Step-down · 08-16-2018, 05:35 AM

If the rod isn’t bent , hoping the small end of the rod is Acceptable
Remove shim from rod cap

emf · 08-16-2018, 07:01 AM

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You may find it easier to remove the entire piston/rod assembly through the bottom. I had a Studebaker that had a bad rod and I removed the piston with the rod through the bottom. I had to rotate the crank a little at a time to get the piston around and out. Once the rod was re-poured, I merely reinstalled the piston and rod and all was well.

Frank

Kurt in NJ · 08-16-2018, 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by emf

You may find it easier to remove the entire piston/rod assembly through the bottom. I had a Studebaker that had a bad rod and I removed the piston with the rod through the bottom. I had to rotate the crank a little at a time to get the piston around and out. Once the rod was re-poured, I merely reinstalled the piston and rod and all was well.

Frank

the crankshaft is in the way, the piston can't even be pulled down enough to pop out the oil ring ---and the main webs are in the way with the crankshaft out

emf · 08-16-2018, 07:38 AM

I never tried my technique with an A. I know it worked with the Stude, but that's quite a different engine. In light of this news, I'd be tempted to take the head off and be done with it. With a rod being bad, better make sure it's not the crank journal.

Frank

George Miller · 08-16-2018, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by emf

You may find it easier to remove the entire piston/rod assembly through the bottom. I had a Studebaker that had a bad rod and I removed the piston with the rod through the bottom. I had to rotate the crank a little at a time to get the piston around and out. Once the rod was re-poured, I merely reinstalled the piston and rod and all was well.

Frank

How did you get the rings to go back in the cylinder.

George Miller · 08-16-2018, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truesdaleg

Can a Model A connecting rod be replaced without removing the head or the engine from the car, like Tom Joad did on the 1926 Hudson in The Grapes of Wrath?

Yes but how are you going to get the wrist pin out.
You will have to use the right under size rod.
How do you know if it fits the wrist pin right.

In the end it is always better to do things right the first time. I would pull the head and do it right. I have changed rods in a old chev 216 that way, but I would not do it now. In the end it will take as long and will not be as good.

Corley · 08-16-2018, 07:51 AM

All that manovering sure makes pulling the head sound easy... Just sayin'.

gustafson · 08-16-2018, 08:07 AM

how hard is it to pull a head?
Ran on 3 cylinders for a couple years? No chance that all the gasoline mist the fourth inhaled would wash the oil off the cylinder walls and kill the rings/bore

George Miller · 08-16-2018, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gustafson

how hard is it to pull a head?
Ran on 3 cylinders for a couple years? No chance that all the gasoline mist the fourth inhaled would wash the oil off the cylinder walls and kill the rings/bore

Most likely the engine needs a complete rebuild. All the rods rings pistons valves had traveled the same distance. So unless some thing happened to just that rod the rest are not far behind. Like I said it is always best to do it right.

emf · 08-16-2018, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by George Miller

How did you get the rings to go back in the cylinder.

I compressed the rings the same was as on top. There was enough room to get a spring compressor in above the crank. This was a LONG stroke engine...

Frank

jhowes · 08-16-2018, 09:04 AM

I had a Willys Knight engine and that is the only way to remove a piston. (through the bottom). I agree that with an A do it right and remove the head then you can also check then rest of the engine. Jack

John Stone · 08-16-2018, 09:16 AM

I have done it. Used battery terminal pliers to pull the wrist pin out far enough to remove the rod. Engine went another 3,000 miles and was rebuilt for reasons other than rods.

It is not impossible but a lot of being horizontal under the car with oil dripping on you. I did it for a good friend. Old enough now I wouldn’t do it again.

Kurt in NJ · 08-16-2018, 09:29 AM

I did it because there was no crank damage---- and I didn't want to drain the coolant -- didn't even replace the pan gasket, I had figured it "temporary", the replacement rod is 10 grams heavier, dropped 3 mph off top speed---- and I know it was just that, it was the only thing changed, and timing, carburetor not touched

That temporary repair was over 25 years ago

gustafson · 08-16-2018, 11:06 AM

"I had a Willys Knight engine and that is the only way to remove a piston. (through the bottom). I agree that with an A do it right and remove the head then you can also check then rest of the engine"
Any Knight engine is a very different beast than all the rest, no comparison

asapguy · 08-16-2018, 12:07 PM

Do what my grandfather & his brother did. They were driving across Montana in a Model T & a rod bearing went bad. They dropped the pan & cut the leather heal out of a boot, wrapped it around the crank & replaced the rod cap. He said it ran that way for 3 yrs.

truesdaleg · 08-16-2018, 12:20 PM

Thanks for all of the good advice. I knew it would be better to do it right. I was was just curios. It’s not like I’m in the middle of the desert at night with 50 cents in my pocket, like Tom.

Maybe this will get me started on my new rebuild engine project, or maybe I will just keep putting it off, and let my grandkids worry about it.

gustafson · 08-16-2018, 01:20 PM

will they even know what to do......

Ted Duke · 08-16-2018, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gustafson

will they even know what to do......

Several of my grandson could figure it out!

24ruxstel1339 · 08-16-2018, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Step-down

If the rod isn’t bent , hoping the small end of the rod is Acceptable
Remove shim from rod cap

As long as the bearing is not damaged, you can remove any shims and/or file a couple thousands off the rod cap to snug it up. I recommend about.001" at a time.
If the wrist pin is the problem, I would replace/check the piston also.

harryc · 08-16-2018, 07:35 PM

that's exactly right. Just because it might knock doesn't mean it must be replaced

truesdaleg · 08-17-2018, 03:13 AM

If I was going to do this, I thought I would just mic the crank, and if it was still mostly round, buy a rebabbitted rod the right size, and install it. Wouldn’t that work?

braol · 08-17-2018, 08:45 AM

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I have done complete bottom-end bearing jobs (crank and rods) on both a BMW M6 and a VW GTI...all done from the bottom with the oil pan off. (Plastigauge is a God-send.) I used a popsicle stick to push the old bearings out and new bearings in. That might be a problem with babbited bearings, of course.

The question at hand is about replacing the whole rod. Others have already commented that it has been done from the bottom. My take is this: Since the Model A is just a flathead design, what's the big deal with popping the head off? There's no retiming of the camshaft or anything like that to deal with. Just pull the piston out the top and be done with it. The only problem with these "engine still in the car" rebuilds is that the crank/cam isn't removed and checked for wear and you can't align bore the block...but in the world of stock 40 horsepower four-bangers it should be no big deal.

All the bearing surfaces on the crank can be inspected and everything can still be "Plastigauged" so I don't see the downside. If you are dealing with a relatively tight, well running engine there should really be no real need for align boring and all that other stuff. If you are feeling REALLY randy one could even hone the cylinders and put in new piston rings...just make sure to really wash out the engine with a good solvent so there is no metal flake on the crank and such.

Just my 2-cents...

BILL WILLIAMSON · 08-17-2018, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by emf

You may find it easier to remove the entire piston/rod assembly through the bottom. I had a Studebaker that had a bad rod and I removed the piston with the rod through the bottom. I had to rotate the crank a little at a time to get the piston around and out. Once the rod was re-poured, I merely reinstalled the piston and rod and all was well.

Frank

HOUDINI would have been GOOD at changing PISTONS/RODS---LOL
Bill W.

Hoovercw · 08-17-2018, 12:01 PM

I found really good information on rod adjustment on the model T sites. I shaved rod caps (no shims left) when the engine was in the car and eliminated all of the play apart from #2 where the crank was out of round by about .002. Still found a happy medium. It worked well. If the rings and valves hadn't been completely worn out, I would have run in like it was. It did stop the rod knock and ran well for another 2k miles before I did valves guides and rings. I did replace the rods at that time.IF you pull the head and go through the top you run the risk of the rings breaking on the ridge. One new rod may put things out of balance as they are supposed to be a matched set. If its a bandaid, I would go through the bottom just like you want, but shim/shave the rod cap instead of replacement unless you find missing Babbitt.

George Miller · 08-17-2018, 12:11 PM

If you have a crank that is .002 out of round you will end up with .004 clearance in the end. It will last for awhile but sooner or later you will have trouble.

40 Deluxe · 08-17-2018, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoovercw

I found really good information on rod adjustment on the model T sites. I shaved rod caps (no shims left) when the engine was in the car and eliminated all of the play apart from #2 where the crank was out of round by about .002. Still found a happy medium. It worked well. If the rings and valves hadn't been completely worn out, I would have run in like it was. It did stop the rod knock and ran well for another 2k miles before I did valves guides and rings. I did replace the rods at that time.IF you pull the head and go through the top you run the risk of the rings breaking on the ridge. One new rod may put things out of balance as they are supposed to be a matched set. If its a bandaid, I would go through the bottom just like you want, but shim/shave the rod cap instead of replacement unless you find missing Babbitt.

"rings breaking on the ridge"??! That's what ridge reamers are for. If you don't have one, go to your nearest AutoZone and rent one free!
Also, you're apt to break a ring land against that ridge, and need a whole new piston, not just a ring!

Hoovercw · 08-17-2018, 02:55 PM

I think the point was he is looking for a bandaid to get running and if you remove the piston through the top then yes, a ridge reamer is in order. something he is trying to avoid.

Hoovercw · 08-17-2018, 02:58 PM

5k miles in and no knock yet. I know it isn't proper, but I have an engine built for when it poops out.

larrys40 · 08-17-2018, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by George Miller

Most likely the engine needs a complete rebuild. All the rods rings pistons valves had traveled the same distance. So unless some thing happened to just that rod the rest are not far behind. Like I said it is always best to do it right.

George. I totally agree . Trying to patch at best won’t produce good results in the end. I don’t like to ad this bit By his own admittance he was lazy and trying to fix it an easy way. The easy way would be to remove the head. For the rod properly, light hone on cylinder if needed and replace as needed.

Agree the engine probably needs much more.
Larry

truesdaleg · 08-17-2018, 08:41 PM

Again I will say, I was not really thinking about doing this. I was just curious, because of the roadside experience described in Steinbeck’s book. I’ve pulled the head on my A before because of a blown head gasket, and I know how easy it is.

truesdaleg · 08-17-2018, 09:07 PM

I like ASAPGUY’z story about his Grandfather getting his T back on the road with a piece of leather cut out of a boot. You do what you have to do, sometimes.

I will get my A fixed right, like it certainly deserves, when I get around to it. The main thing is that I am enjoying having it, and playing with it. I also enjoy all the banter from you guys on this site, although I’m not as serious about it as maybe I should be.

40 Deluxe · 08-17-2018, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truesdaleg

I like ASAPGUY’z story about his Grandfather getting his T back on the road with a piece of leather cut out of a boot. You do what you have to do, sometimes.

I will get my A fixed right, like it certainly deserves, when I get around to it. The main thing is that I am enjoying having it, and playing with it. I also enjoy all the banter from you guys on this site, although I’m not as serious about it as maybe I should be.

"You're not as serious about it as you should be"? Stay that way! Have fun! Continue to enjoy it! You don't need the original air in the tires nor the original water in the radiator to have an acceptable car.

truesdaleg · 08-17-2018, 11:56 PM

40 Deluxe- Thanks. I will.

Corley · 08-18-2018, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

"You're not as serious about it as you should be"? Stay that way! Have fun! Continue to enjoy it! You don't need the original air in the tires nor the original water in the radiator to have an acceptable car.

Very well said! After all, these are just cars, and for most of us, just big boy fun...

katy · 08-18-2018, 09:11 AM

FWIW, many years ago I helped a friend re-ring the engine in his English car, don't remember what make it was. The big end of the rod was too big to go up through the cylinder. We had to pull the rod/piston assembly up and take the wrist pins out to separate the rod from the piston and then drop the rod out the bottom.

chap52 · 08-18-2018, 10:31 AM

It's yours, no matter what... I would hate to post some of the on the fly band aids we did on our cars in the 60's. I believe that it may have been the chemicals in our systems that helped us be so creative.
Enjoy the adventure. Chap

truesdaleg · 08-18-2018, 06:31 PM

Larrys40- I see you are in St. Charles, MO. I bought an A engine from a guy named Altenbernd, in St Charles, several year ago which I will eventually install in my car. It had been completely rebuilt 30 years ago my a supposedly Model A expert, but never installed. We were afraid the bearings might be stuck after all those years, so I didn’t try to turn it over. Since then, I have pulled off a couple of the connecting rod and main bearing caps, and the babbit was not stuck and everything looked fine. Since it was that long ago, I don’t know if the engine was balanced, or not (if that makes any difference). I know the right thing to do, while I have it out, would be to have someone, like Dennis Piranio, check it out and balance it. I haven’t asked what that would cost.

When I bought the engine, I asked Chris to include the little stand it was on, because I would probably just roll it around my garage for another 30 years. That was 6 years ago, so you can see I am well on my way to doing just that.

08-15-2018, 11:52 PM	#1
truesdaleg Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Allen,TX Posts: 21	Replacing A connecting rod in place Can a Model A connecting rod be replaced without removing the head or the engine from the car, like Tom Joad did on the 1926 Hudson in The Grapes of Wrath?

08-16-2018, 02:51 AM	#4
truesdaleg Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Allen,TX Posts: 21	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place Has anyone else had any experience trying to do this?

08-16-2018, 05:35 AM	#5
Step-down Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Hat City (Danbury CT) Posts: 647	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place If the rod isn’t bent , hoping the small end of the rod is Acceptable Remove shim from rod cap __________________ "I can't cry as long as I know the Lord has risen "

08-16-2018, 07:01 AM	#6
emf Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Hudson, NY Posts: 511	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) You may find it easier to remove the entire piston/rod assembly through the bottom. I had a Studebaker that had a bad rod and I removed the piston with the rod through the bottom. I had to rotate the crank a little at a time to get the piston around and out. Once the rod was re-poured, I merely reinstalled the piston and rod and all was well. Frank

08-16-2018, 07:38 AM	#8
emf Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Hudson, NY Posts: 511	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place I never tried my technique with an A. I know it worked with the Stude, but that's quite a different engine. In light of this news, I'd be tempted to take the head off and be done with it. With a rod being bad, better make sure it's not the crank journal. Frank

08-15-2018, 11:58 PM	#2
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,157	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place Yes, but it does require some wiggling ---I changed out a #3 on my car using right angle snap ring pliers----most likely original centerlocks pins won't be able to be removed, pulled the piston as far down as possible, rotate 45 degrees, by grabbing the end of the pin with snap ring pliers and wiggling in unison with the rod the pin can be moved over enough

08-16-2018, 02:48 AM	#3
truesdaleg Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Allen,TX Posts: 21	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place Sounds interesting. Maybe I’ll try it. I’ve got a bad rod knock, and I have been too lazy to fix it. I’ve got another engine to rebuild and put in 29 Roadster, but no telling when I will get around to doing that. I’ve just been running it around town on three cylinders for a couple of years.

08-16-2018, 07:51 AM	#11
Corley Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Battle Ground WA Posts: 293	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place All that manovering sure makes pulling the head sound easy... Just sayin'. __________________ Corley ----------------- Subscribed to the KISS principle!

08-16-2018, 08:07 AM	#12
gustafson BANNED Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 128	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place how hard is it to pull a head? Ran on 3 cylinders for a couple years? No chance that all the gasoline mist the fourth inhaled would wash the oil off the cylinder walls and kill the rings/bore

08-16-2018, 09:04 AM	#15
jhowes Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: upstate NY near Mass border Posts: 789	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place I had a Willys Knight engine and that is the only way to remove a piston. (through the bottom). I agree that with an A do it right and remove the head then you can also check then rest of the engine. Jack

08-16-2018, 09:16 AM	#16
John Stone Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wichita, Kansas Posts: 710	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place I have done it. Used battery terminal pliers to pull the wrist pin out far enough to remove the rod. Engine went another 3,000 miles and was rebuilt for reasons other than rods. It is not impossible but a lot of being horizontal under the car with oil dripping on you. I did it for a good friend. Old enough now I wouldn’t do it again.

08-16-2018, 09:29 AM	#17
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,157	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place I did it because there was no crank damage---- and I didn't want to drain the coolant -- didn't even replace the pan gasket, I had figured it "temporary", the replacement rod is 10 grams heavier, dropped 3 mph off top speed---- and I know it was just that, it was the only thing changed, and timing, carburetor not touched That temporary repair was over 25 years ago Last edited by Kurt in NJ; 08-16-2018 at 10:19 AM.

08-16-2018, 11:06 AM	#18
gustafson BANNED Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 128	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place "I had a Willys Knight engine and that is the only way to remove a piston. (through the bottom). I agree that with an A do it right and remove the head then you can also check then rest of the engine" Any Knight engine is a very different beast than all the rest, no comparison

08-16-2018, 12:07 PM	#19
asapguy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Snohomish Wa. Posts: 389	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place Do what my grandfather & his brother did. They were driving across Montana in a Model T & a rod bearing went bad. They dropped the pan & cut the leather heal out of a boot, wrapped it around the crank & replaced the rod cap. He said it ran that way for 3 yrs.

08-16-2018, 12:20 PM	#20
truesdaleg Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Allen,TX Posts: 21	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place Thanks for all of the good advice. I knew it would be better to do it right. I was was just curios. It’s not like I’m in the middle of the desert at night with 50 cents in my pocket, like Tom. Maybe this will get me started on my new rebuild engine project, or maybe I will just keep putting it off, and let my grandkids worry about it.

08-16-2018, 01:20 PM	#21
gustafson BANNED Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 128	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place will they even know what to do......

08-16-2018, 07:35 PM	#24
harryc Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: CA Posts: 206	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place that's exactly right. Just because it might knock doesn't mean it must be replaced

08-17-2018, 03:13 AM	#25
truesdaleg Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Allen,TX Posts: 21	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place If I was going to do this, I thought I would just mic the crank, and if it was still mostly round, buy a rebabbitted rod the right size, and install it. Wouldn’t that work?

08-17-2018, 08:45 AM	#26
braol Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Endeavor, WI Posts: 119	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I have done complete bottom-end bearing jobs (crank and rods) on both a BMW M6 and a VW GTI...all done from the bottom with the oil pan off. (Plastigauge is a God-send.) I used a popsicle stick to push the old bearings out and new bearings in. That might be a problem with babbited bearings, of course. The question at hand is about replacing the whole rod. Others have already commented that it has been done from the bottom. My take is this: Since the Model A is just a flathead design, what's the big deal with popping the head off? There's no retiming of the camshaft or anything like that to deal with. Just pull the piston out the top and be done with it. The only problem with these "engine still in the car" rebuilds is that the crank/cam isn't removed and checked for wear and you can't align bore the block...but in the world of stock 40 horsepower four-bangers it should be no big deal. All the bearing surfaces on the crank can be inspected and everything can still be "Plastigauged" so I don't see the downside. If you are dealing with a relatively tight, well running engine there should really be no real need for align boring and all that other stuff. If you are feeling REALLY randy one could even hone the cylinders and put in new piston rings...just make sure to really wash out the engine with a good solvent so there is no metal flake on the crank and such. Just my 2-cents... __________________ "I have not yet begun to defile myself." -Doc Holliday '31 Tudor, '69 F100, '66 Mustang, '11 Ford Flex

08-17-2018, 12:01 PM	#28
Hoovercw Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 63	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place I found really good information on rod adjustment on the model T sites. I shaved rod caps (no shims left) when the engine was in the car and eliminated all of the play apart from #2 where the crank was out of round by about .002. Still found a happy medium. It worked well. If the rings and valves hadn't been completely worn out, I would have run in like it was. It did stop the rod knock and ran well for another 2k miles before I did valves guides and rings. I did replace the rods at that time.IF you pull the head and go through the top you run the risk of the rings breaking on the ridge. One new rod may put things out of balance as they are supposed to be a matched set. If its a bandaid, I would go through the bottom just like you want, but shim/shave the rod cap instead of replacement unless you find missing Babbitt.

08-17-2018, 12:11 PM	#29
George Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NC Posts: 2,975	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place If you have a crank that is .002 out of round you will end up with .004 clearance in the end. It will last for awhile but sooner or later you will have trouble.

08-17-2018, 02:55 PM	#31
Hoovercw Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 63	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place I think the point was he is looking for a bandaid to get running and if you remove the piston through the top then yes, a ridge reamer is in order. something he is trying to avoid.

08-17-2018, 02:58 PM	#32
Hoovercw Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 63	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place 5k miles in and no knock yet. I know it isn't proper, but I have an engine built for when it poops out.

08-17-2018, 08:41 PM	#34
truesdaleg Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Allen,TX Posts: 21	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place Again I will say, I was not really thinking about doing this. I was just curious, because of the roadside experience described in Steinbeck’s book. I’ve pulled the head on my A before because of a blown head gasket, and I know how easy it is.

08-17-2018, 09:07 PM	#35
truesdaleg Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Allen,TX Posts: 21	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place I like ASAPGUY’z story about his Grandfather getting his T back on the road with a piece of leather cut out of a boot. You do what you have to do, sometimes. I will get my A fixed right, like it certainly deserves, when I get around to it. The main thing is that I am enjoying having it, and playing with it. I also enjoy all the banter from you guys on this site, although I’m not as serious about it as maybe I should be.

08-17-2018, 11:56 PM	#37
truesdaleg Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Allen,TX Posts: 21	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place 40 Deluxe- Thanks. I will.

08-18-2018, 09:11 AM	#39
katy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Red Deer, Alberta Posts: 5,043	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place FWIW, many years ago I helped a friend re-ring the engine in his English car, don't remember what make it was. The big end of the rod was too big to go up through the cylinder. We had to pull the rod/piston assembly up and take the wrist pins out to separate the rod from the piston and then drop the rod out the bottom. __________________ If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn!

08-18-2018, 10:31 AM	#40
chap52 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Marana Arizona Posts: 1,776	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place It's yours, no matter what... I would hate to post some of the on the fly band aids we did on our cars in the 60's. I believe that it may have been the chemicals in our systems that helped us be so creative. Enjoy the adventure. Chap

08-18-2018, 06:31 PM	#41
truesdaleg Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Allen,TX Posts: 21	Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place Larrys40- I see you are in St. Charles, MO. I bought an A engine from a guy named Altenbernd, in St Charles, several year ago which I will eventually install in my car. It had been completely rebuilt 30 years ago my a supposedly Model A expert, but never installed. We were afraid the bearings might be stuck after all those years, so I didn’t try to turn it over. Since then, I have pulled off a couple of the connecting rod and main bearing caps, and the babbit was not stuck and everything looked fine. Since it was that long ago, I don’t know if the engine was balanced, or not (if that makes any difference). I know the right thing to do, while I have it out, would be to have someone, like Dennis Piranio, check it out and balance it. I haven’t asked what that would cost. When I bought the engine, I asked Chris to include the little stand it was on, because I would probably just roll it around my garage for another 30 years. That was 6 years ago, so you can see I am well on my way to doing just that.