Oil/gear oil leak

[Gino]

Hi I sure could use some advice on the dreaded oil leak. Please forgive my poor use of this web site. My email is [email protected] thanks Gino

[Aok]

Try this link
http://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.c...RMAINLEAK.html

[Gino]

Hi, thanks for the reply. Don't want to sound like an experienced Model A Mechanic, but the info listed in the link you suggest is bland at best. Most rear main leaks are due to poor workmanship, ( over use of rtv, poor observation of shims, uneven surface of block and rear bearing cap, bad gasket instalation, and most important end play in the crank shaft.) I don't believe this to be my problem. After swapping the engine for one that has no end play, good babbit, and proper shims, the leak seems to be coming from the bolts that attach the sway bars to the trany. This a new leak and a bit of a set back after all the work I did swapping engines twice! Hope I'm not coming across the wrong way here, I'm very new at this and I don't have many connections, thanks

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Gino,

Unless missing something, or misinterpreting your concern, it appears the sway bars you see may be the two (2) radius rods extending from the front axle & attached to the flywheel housing with (2) bolts at the radius rod socket, in front of the transmission.

If so, usually oil leaks at this location are an indication of engine oil leaking out of the rear main bearing, & again if so, AOK's reply no. (2) above may be on target & maybe worth looking at again.

[Mikeinnj]

Gino,

When you join the Fordbarn Forum you have a wealth of connections, and many of those members have a vast knowledge and experience working on Model A Fords and are here to help anyone with questions related to the hobby.

Is it leaking while running or when stopped.? How much of a leak is there ? Did the engine builder use the correct gasket/sealer between the rear of the engine, particularly around the end surface of the camshaft, and flywheel housing ?

[Gino]

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Thanks everyone, I do need help here. I'm lucky to have blindly purchased a Model A Ford Coupe just two years ago but quickly learned I must learn to work on it. Please know I love this car. I'm 56 years old. Any way the leak is where the radius rods attach to the bell housing (I'm now looking at Les Andrews Hand book so I can be more coherent) now the horrible leak I had been dealing with came out of the large cotter pin located at the bottom of the fly ( fly wheel housing, sorry I can't find the nomenclature of this part quickly). So, in the event of a rear bearing cap leak, I'm curious as to how the oil can by pass the cotter pin drain and then come out of the radius rod cap. Also the texture of the oil seems to be very thick. should you folks drive to Cape Cod I'll buy you a lobster!

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Gino, Dog here,
Bill's friend had his new engine out 3 times, fussin' with a "rear main" leak afore' he discovered it was a front trans leak! Feel, smell, & taste the oil to see what it is. Iffin' you got a Dog, he'll help you.
Buster T.

[Jazzjr]

I'm curious as to how the oil can by pass the cotter pin drain and then come out of the radius rod cap

Gino, when you learn more about Henry Fords (Better Ideals from Ford) thats the way he Designed it to leak out the Rear Main to Lube the Radius Rod Socket from the Large Cotter Pin. I Wish he would have put a good rear main seal on the crank and a grease fitting on the Raduis scoket.

Now back to your Excessive rear main Leak, Mine was Like Yours, I had the Motor out 3 different times. Crankshaft in and out, checking the bearing Clearances, pulling shims until I got it close to specs. Putting the rear main cap back on and trying to seal it and the Bolts with different sealers each time. The only thing that worked for me to finally stop the Leak. I had the Slinger turned off and Used the Burtz Seal, that failed after about 200 miles of Driving. I replaced it with the 2 Piece Felt Seal,
and littery used #2 Permatex on Block, Cap ends and around the bolts and Nuts. Before I used ATV no luck. the only place I now use it is around the back of the Alum rear main seal. My rear main leak is now Cured, Thank the Lord!! Good Luck to You.

[afuncar]

you could be seeing trans fluid that may be coming from the shifter rods. You can purchase a horseshoe shaped plug from a parts supplier that fits inside bellhousing to stop leak.

[Gino]

Wow, lots of info for this rookie to absorb, but I'll try. I think I'll attach a bath tub to the underside. I'll post something here when I get it all sorted out. Thank you all

[1crosscut]

Bill just very well may have it as you say that it is very thick oil. Have you checked the level of your transmission to see if it is going down? How big of a puddle is it leaving? I think that there is a dye marker of some type that can be put into the transmission to check for leaks. Others will chime in on that I hope. Might be a good way to rule that out.
Dave

[Gino]

I drove around town, about 15 miles. When I went out to look at her, oh maybe two hours later there was about a table spoon of oil or what ever. Today I'm going drain a bit of both oil and gear oil, give em a taste, lol, compare the the two to the stuff that leaks. But good idea I'll try to keep an eye on the gear oil level thanks

[George Miller]

Rear main leaks are one of the most common problems. They did not leak from the factory like some say. Maybe a drop or two no more. There are many places that cause the leak. I can not tell you how to fix here. Would need to be there to check every thing.
Example plugged return pipe, most of the time with Babbitt, oil return pipe screwed in to far and blocking the oil return hole, remain cap not flat, rear oil retainer in block not right or installed wrong, to much crankshaft end play, number one problem on most engines, leaking at the rear camshaft bearing or the bolts at the cam shaft on each side of the hole. On some engines the holes go into the block. Then the oil can leak by the bolts, especially if lock washers were used to hold the flywheel housing on. There are more things, but this should keep you busy for a while.

[Mikeinnj]

Originally Posted by Gino

Thanks everyone, I do need help here. I'm lucky to have blindly purchased a Model A Ford Coupe just two years ago but quickly learned I must learn to work on it. Please know I love this car. I'm 56 years old. Any way the leak is where the radius rods attach to the bell housing (I'm now looking at Les Andrews Hand book so I can be more coherent) now the horrible leak I had been dealing with came out of the large cotter pin located at the bottom of the fly ( fly wheel housing, sorry I can't find the nomenclature of this part quickly). So, in the event of a rear bearing cap leak, I'm curious as to how the oil can by pass the cotter pin drain and then come out of the radius rod cap. Also the texture of the oil seems to be very thick. should you folks drive to Cape Cod I'll buy you a lobster!

Gino, you better save your lobster money up, because the 2013 Model A Ford New England Meet is coming to Hyannis, Cape Cod,Ma. this September. Should be several hundred cars...

[Tom Wesenberg]

Make sure the 1/8" hole on the rear side, half way up on the shift tower, is open. I hold a vacuum cleaner hose next to the hole while I twist a drill bit in it to suck out the junk plugging the hole.

[JBill]

My really bad leak turned out to be exactly what the "bland" Antique Engine Rebuilding advice said it might be, a plugged oil cap.

[c125bob]

An overfull transmission (600wt), overfull radiator or an overfull engine (your choice of oil) can make leaks "terrible". Like you, I'm learning Model A's. When I got mine I made sure that all fluids were full up to the marks. After learning that these cars like to run a little low on engine oil and radiator water-antifreeze I found levels that the car was happy with. The transmission vent was stopped up and created a similar leak that you are experiencing. Unstopped it, leak settled down. Proper levels on engine and radiator got those under control as well. I still leak a little engine oil but not enough to worry about or make a big mess.

You could have a different situation, being there and seeing it first hand would help identify the source. I'd try to find a club close by and get an experienced Model A person to help you. When I did that my life (and the cars life) became much more pleasant. Good luck and keep us posted !

[Tom Endy]

It is very common for oil to leak from the rear of the transmission housing where the cluster gear shaft and the idler gear shaft exit the housing. When rebuilding a transmission it is prudent to install both shafts with those that have been modified with O-rings. A stop gap measure can be accomplished without removing the transmission from the car. Some suppliers carry a cast assembly that bolts over the ends of the two shafts that form a dam to prevent an oil leak. Reference Bratton's part number 10500, page 48 in their catalog.

Tom Endy