Engine Oil Drain PLug Flathead V8 1946-47-48 Engine

[Ramblin Reck]

This looks like to be my engine oil drain plug on my Flathead. It almost looks like a cap????? Being my first time changing the oil, this Newbie needs guidance . Is this what it should look like???? I have never seen an oil plug that looks like this!



I was able to successfully change the transmission oil. Now that type of plug is what I expected to find on the oil pan. To make sure I got the correct 2.5 pints into it, i removed the shifter and poured directly into the transmission!

[Ford Freak]

Yep-that be it!

[tubman]

I think they were made that big to be able to drain the big chunks of sludge that accumulated in the engine from using non-detergent oil.

[FortyNiner]

Yup. Pipe wrench works great on it.

[Ramblin Reck]

Thanks to all who responded! I had read that there might be rust flakes and even sand from the block! Is there any sort of a tool to use to scrape out any sludge found other than one's finger?

[Bored&Stroked]

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Originally Posted by Ramblin Reck

Thanks to all who responded! I had read that there might be rust flakes and even sand from the block! Is there any sort of a tool to use to scrape out any sludge found other than one's finger?

There is really no reliable way other than to pull the pan and clean it out. It isn't that big of a job - just a bit messy. This also gives you a chance to clean out the oil-pump screen and if your oil pressure is really low, throw in a new pump. I highly recommend this on any older engine . . .

[Ramblin Reck]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

There is really no reliable way other than to pull the pan and clean it out. It isn't that big of a job - just a bit messy. This also gives you a chance to clean out the oil-pump screen and if your oil pressure is really low, throw in a new pump. I highly recommend this on any older engine . . .

Thanks Good point Have not yet changed the oil so don't know if I have a lot of sludge or not. In any case, I hope there are "videos" out there view before I take on such a project.

[Tim Ayers]

I would suggest using high temp epoxy to secure a high strength magnet to the center of the drain plug. Cheap insurance to catch any metal flakes floating around in there.

Almost every swap meet, you can find an aftermarket plate steel wrenches that fit this plug. Many are "mutlitools" with sizes for brakes, etc., but one is generally for the drain plug.

[farmertom]

hey Ramblin Reck, about your eng oil drain plug, for my '37 I purchased a large 2" drive socketyou can also get a reducer so to use a 3/8"drive rachet which is alot easier than an adjustable crescent wrench or a pipe wrenchbecause your going to be changing oil quite often. more than you modern daliy drivers. just remember not to use alot of torque,snug.make sure if there is not a large fiber/paper or copper sealing washer attached to drain plug,get one. there will be some oil goobers drain out of your oil pan drain hole,warm engine good and hot then drain wright away to get alot of that sludge to drain. as far as using a tool to scrape out sludge not advisable you don't want to damage the oil pickup,which is very close to floor of oil pan.probly finger only. when i first got my '37 i changed the oil every 500mi.now about 800-1000 mi.oreillys 10w30conventional oil 3.99 a quart. hope this helps.Tom.

[Ramblin Reck]

Originally Posted by farmertom

hey Ramblin Reck, about your eng oil drain plug, for my '37 I purchased a large 2" drive socketyou can also get a reducer so to use a 3/8"drive rachet which is alot easier than an adjustable crescent wrench or a pipe wrenchbecause your going to be changing oil quite often. more than you modern daliy drivers. just remember not to use alot of torque,snug.make sure if there is not a large fiber/paper or copper sealing washer attached to drain plug,get one. there will be some oil goobers drain out of your oil pan drain hole,warm engine good and hot then drain wright away to get alot of that sludge to drain. as far as using a tool to scrape out sludge not advisable you don't want to damage the oil pickup,which is very close to floor of oil pan.probly finger only. when i first got my '37 i changed the oil every 500mi.now about 800-1000 mi.oreillys 10w30conventional oil 3.99 a quart. hope this helps.Tom.

Thanks I might want to get a new "washer" before I start. Also smart not to insert anything into the pan, using only a finger so as not to break something in there. All good advice. I am sure grateful that all y'all are here to guide this Octogenarian newbie.

[marko39]

Be careful the first time you remove plug as the oil can come out with a vengeance. Magnet is good idea. No need to epoxy it as it will stick where you put it.

[Ramblin Reck]

Originally Posted by marko39

Be careful the first time you remove plug as the oil can come out with a vengeance. Magnet is good idea. No need to epoxy it as it will stick where you put it.

Magnet is an aftermarket product or is it built into the drain plug? I have found some small (nickel size) and extremely powerful magnets inside of old computer hard drives that i destroyed. Should I use that? In Joe's Antique Auto catalog, the big drain plug looks concave or convex whichever is correct term.

[SoCalCoupe]

Originally Posted by farmertom

just remember not to use a lot of torque,snug.

Can't help but ask another elementary question. How much torque? Anyone have a number? I've seen so many threads ruined by mechanics who tighten "by feel," especially oil pans.


Use a torque wrench, tighten by feel. When it strips, back off 5 ft-lb. Don't like that procedure very much.

[19Fordy]

Ramblin Reck: farmertom's advice is well worth following. If you try to dislodge sludge particles you will inadvertently be loosening up small bits and pieces that will be free to contaminate your oil and possibly damage your bearings. Let it be until you have the time and patience to remove your oil pan.

On the 40-48 transmission there should be a drain plug on the bottom and a fill plug on the side. The same is true of the rear end differential case. You fill it with fluid until it starts to drip out of the fill plug. It is possible to change drain plug styles as shown below. I think it requires a 3/8 drive. Last photo shows rear gear ratio numbers stamped on case.

You shouldn't have to remove the transmission shift cover to fill your transmission.

[JayChicago]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

There is really no reliable way other than to pull the pan and clean it out. It isn't that big of a job - just a bit messy.

I thought R & R the pan from an engine in the car was a big job. Am I wrong?

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by JayChicago

I thought R & R the pan from an engine in the car was a big job. Am I wrong?

NO. Not in my humble opinion.

[farmertom]

hey ramblinreck,i agree with 19Fordy about the fill and drain plugs in trans and rear diff. i purchased all 4 plugs new from macs or c andg.they are easy to remove with 3/8" drive extention or just the ratchet i find a 2"ext. works best. the 85 yr old plugs were some odd size so first time service for me i ground down an old 1/2"ext. to get the origs.out. Tom.

[19Fordy]

Originally Posted by JayChicago

I thought R & R the pan from an engine in the car was a big job. Am I wrong?

If you have a lift, it's not a big job. If you don't have a lift, it's messy and disconcerting because you are working on your back. Here's why.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148101

More reading about it here:
https://www.google.com/search?q=remo...hrome&ie=UTF-8

[Clem Clement]

Be careful with you finger in the sump. The threaded edge can be sharp. Snug the plug just a bit past tight. If it does not leak, you are good. most of us change our own oil as the zippy-fast shops love to crank that plug down tight.