Looking for a drawing / Blueprint of a pinion puller

[steve hackel]

I am looking for a blueprint or good drawing of a pinion puller that I can use as a father & son project so he can log some time on the Bridgeport and lathe.
Anything that I can teach to him, at this point ,will probably stay with him for the rest of his life and this would be an excellent project that we would be using as soon as it is finished. Yes, I know I can buy one, but he already knows how to use his credit card and I am trying to break him of that habit!
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve

[Synchro909]

Is it possible to further enhance the lesson by designing the tool between the two of you? Who knows, you may both learn something and get an even greater sense of achievement.
BTW, I borrowed a tool for this job a while ago and found that getting a grip on the drive shaft was the hard part,

[davehc]

This idea from a guy on Jalopy Journey site may help , also try Google Images for a lot of info also .
http://www.homemadetools.net/homemad...on-gear-puller

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by davehc

This idea from a guy on Jalopy Journey site may help , also try Google Images for a lot of info also .
http://www.homemadetools.net/homemad...on-gear-puller

Dave, that really won't work too well on a Model-A because the A driveshaft is too long.


Steve, I would see if you can find two pieces of 2"T x 3-4"W x 3-4L cold rolled and make something like this steering shaft puller below. Begin by setting them up in the vise and flycutting one surface on each piece to become a matched mating surface. Next poke four or six 3/8" holes in one piece along the edge. Then use the lathe to make a transfer punch that has the 0.375 OD and a point one end. Use the transfer punch to layout the holes for the mating piece. Poke holes in the 2nd piece of bar stock, -then drill and thread each hole in that one.


Next, clamp the two pieces together with the bolts and mount them in the vise to flycut each of the edges to clean them up. When that is complete, remove the two halves and 'sandwich a piece of heavy manila paper between the blocks to act as a spacer. Now, mount the entire block (both halves together) in a four-jaw chuck on your lathe and indicate it in. Teach him the trick on how to indicate opposite corners up by the chuck jaws, and how to use a dead-center on the tailstock end to indicate that end holding the dead-center with a live-center on your tailstock. Then drill a hole all the way through the center of the two pieces (-still bolted together) and follow-up by boring the ID until it is the same diameter as the driveshaft. Once you remove it from the lathe, unbolt the two halves of metal and remove your paper. Now whatever the compressed thickness of that paper was will now be the amount of crush the blocks will have on the driveshaft when the puller block bolts are tightened.

Next, use three or four bolts about 2½" long and thread those bolts equally into the torque tube mating flange on the differential (banjo) housing. Slide your puller down the driveshaft until the block of metal is resting on the heads of the bolts. Then tighten the bolts in the blocks effectively clamping onto the driveshaft. Now begin twisting each of the bolt about ¼ turn each in a circular pattern which will begin putting pressure only the shaft and cause it to pull the race out of the housing. If you run out of threads, rethread them back into the housing, then loosen the bolts on your puller and lower it back onto the bolt heads. 'Rinse & repeat' this process about 3-4 times and the race should be out of the housing. Good luck and best wishes with your project.


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[steve hackel]

Thanks for all the information. Thanks for the detailed build Brent, I used something like that for the steering shaft & worm gear installation that James Rogers sent to me a few years ago - Thanks again James - I still need the basic lay out of the puller and its parts in order to build one. I dropped several large pieces of bar stock off at a friends that has a surface grinder and he will true them up a little for me before we attempt the shaft grabber, so things will move forward from here on out.
Thanks again, Steve

[KR500]

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Pinion puller/ replacer. Here hopefully are some photos of an original Snap-On pinion puller/replacer and photos of one I built.

[KR500]

I've posted some photos of a pinion puller/replacer I built as an apprentice tool maker. If interested I can take down and post or PM you the dimensions. There is a sufficient amount of mill work (machining the yoke and the three T bolts) plus a sufficient amount of lathe work with learning internal cutting of threads. There is also a circular thrust ring which attaches to rear axle center section to keep from embedding the pull bolts into housing. Let me know your thoughts. This tool can be used with driveshaft left installed or removed.

[RUNNERBUN]

Follow this link to Santaanitaas by Tom Endy http://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-conte...-Pictorial.pdf
Should give you enough detail to fabricate your own. You will require a Lathe.

[Tom Endy]

Thank you for posting the link. I tried to attached the exact file, but it would not attach. I don't know how to attach a link.


The key to this puller is the steel block that clamps to the drive shaft. When we made it, it was a solid block of steel. We bored a hole through it slightly smaller in diameter than the drive shaft, then cut it in half. It must clamp tight to the drive shaft without slipping.


The design also allows the pinion assembly to pulled without disturbing the two large nuts that maintain a pre-load if one is still there. Some of the pullers on the market require the outer nut to be removed to be used to attach the puller. This destroys the pre-load setting.


Tom Endy

[Afordman31]

Runnerbun, thank you for the link to the pinion puller!


Tom, thank you for posting your puller design and description!

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by KR500

Pinion puller/ replacer. Here hopefully are some photos of an original Snap-On pinion puller/replacer and photos of one I built.

So this kinda opens the door for a few more questions. I agree that the machine time in making one of these for 'friends & family' is taxing at best. So let me pose this thought.


I have a CNC Plasma that cuts 0.375 plate very nicely -and 0.500" plate OK however with flame marks & dross on the sides. Therefore if I were to cut it from 0.375" thick plate where Bridgeport-style T-nuts could be used in the slots, and one of the pinion nuts to anchor the plate to pull against, do you think 0.375" plate would be substantial enough for most home-hobbyist's use?


Yes, we could use the same CAD drawing and outsource it having it cut on a laser out of 0.500" however the price would likely double, and I am guessing it would make those here wanting one cost prohibitive. Maybe another option is to draw it up and send a DWX file to those that want to have one made locally? Then again, not even sure how many here would even want one for their tool box. Thoughts??

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[CarlG]

I bought one from Mitchel Mfg that worked very well. Wasn't all that expensive either.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by CarlG

I bought one from Mitchel Mfg that worked very well. Wasn't all that expensive either.

I thought they were like $100 or so. Am I wrong??

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

I thought they were like $100 or so. Am I wrong??

$85 including postage.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[steve hackel]

Actually, the figure of 85 to 100+ is far less than the time involved in machining & cutting all the parts to build one, not counting the time and expense of the materials.
The father son time will still be blended into the good & bad - dirty & fun projects that every car presents.
Go ahead Brent, I am behind you.....

[KR500]

When I made mine, I wasn't considering cost or time. I've often worked for myself very cheaply. More than anything I wanted the experience which I believe is what the father wanted for his son. Many of our purchased or made tools may be sold by our widows for next to nothing or tossed and some great stuff will have vanished. Where is all the great babbitting and machine tools that once were used extensively?