12 volt starter solenoid

[1963turnerjohn]

Does anyone know of a 1941 factory looking 12volt starter solonoid?

I am converting my 41 to 12v and had the factory 6v generator changed to 12v using the original case to preserve the look, and would like to carry through as much as possible in all components.

Thxs
John

[Joe AZ]

Don't know about a '41, but I converted my '40 to 12 volts, and use the original 6 volt solenoid. I was told it would work, and haven't experienced any issues.
Joe

[Kahuna]

As Joe has mentioned, use the original. My 39 has been converted for 23 years to 12 volt using the original solenoid. No issues

[1963turnerjohn]

Are you both using the 6v starter still? I do plan on retaining the 6v starter forvthevtime being.

Thxs for the advice

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by 1963turnerjohn

Are you both using the 6v starter still? I do plan on retaining the 6v starter forvthevtime being.

Thxs for the advice

Can't speak for both of them but I have been using the same 6 volt starter and solenoid on 12 volts for the last 20 years.

[Joe AZ]

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I'm still using the 6 volt starter as well.
Joe

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

I used 6volt solenoids with 12 volt on quite a few my old toys, BUT, I've had 2 of them stick and started kept running, had to disconnect batt, SO, I use 12 noids from now on. Walt

[34PKUP]

Originally Posted by Walt Dupont--Me.

I used 6volt solenoids with 12 volt on quite a few my old toys, BUT, I've had 2 of them stick and started kept running, had to disconnect batt, SO, I use 12 noids from now on. Walt

Back when I had my '47 Merc. I had the solenoid stick while on 6 volts.
How can that be explained?

[Flat Ernie]

Originally Posted by Walt Dupont--Me.

I used 6volt solenoids with 12 volt on quite a few my old toys, BUT, I've had 2 of them stick and started kept running, had to disconnect batt, SO, I use 12 noids from now on.

The 6V starter relays are actually heavier duty than the 12V ones. What causes them to stick is the higher current draw of the 6V starter running on 12V. The 6V contacts were likely dirty, pitted and aged, which causes resistance to build up internally and they can stick like an arc welding rod because of the arcing just prior to the contact...the 12V ones will do it too eventually. I've had 12V ones do it on 12V cars even - again, it's more a function of the condition of the contacts internally.

If you're really bored, you can drill the rivits out of the old starter relay and dress the contacts internally and bolt it back together with small screws. Done this in a pinch.

What I like best about the original starter relays is the button on the bottom most of them have - so I can bump the engine from in the engine bay without having to get out the remote starter switch or use a screwdriver.

Also, when you switch to 12V starter relay, if you use the garden variety $5 model, you'll have to change your starter button to supply power, either through a relay or directly. There is an agricultural variant that works on a ground, but if you leave the 6V one in there and connect the cables the same way, it'll work without any changes.

One more thing I'll add about using a 6V starter on 12V is that some folks have broken bendix springs. I lost a bolt (came out, not broken) and replaced one of mine with those one-piece bendix units -works great and no broken springs.

[packyusmc]

My '38 had been converted to 12v before i got it. The solenoid begain to stick (wouldn't disengage the starter) some while back so i went looking. The regular outlets had some but they were like $40.+++. Went to a mom and pop starter/ generator shop and got the right thing for about $15.00. Be sure to get the switch with 2 big terminals on the sides where the battery cables go and with ONE small terminal, not two. The small wire goes straight to the starter button on the dash.