Vibration - rumble

[Zeke3]

I have never seen a clutch hub loose by design. It looks like the center of the clutch plate may have failed also.

[Bored&Stroked]

You definitely need a new clutch disc at the very least (and probably a throw out bearing and for sure a pilot bearing). Hopefully the pilot bearing held together, or I'd also be checking out the transmission (due to the input shaft potentially wobbling around). I've seen clutch discs where the springs went to crap, but never one quite like your! LOL

[Talkwrench]

Yes I have another clutch that still in good condition so I'll use that , the pilot bearing is still good, and all the gearbox bearings good.. I will do the throw out bearing even though its only been in there a short time it does have some movement but I think its perfectly normal. I'll do another post on rebuilding the gearbox as despite all things being good and measurements ok , it was still popping out of second..

Does anyone have a link to installing the center bearing ?

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Talkwrench

I'll do another post on rebuilding the gearbox as despite all things being good and measurements ok , it was still popping out of second..

That problem is one that is not easy to fix (or absolutely know that you have it fixed). Charlie NY and I are of the same opinion that you want to have the best quality main shaft possible - with as little bearing surface wear on the front as possible (I found new main shafts - which are hard to come by these days). I test fit my main shafts with the front input shaft (with the caged bearing) - to find the tightest combination I can find (least deflection). Basically I put the front input in my lathe, add the mainshaft and caged bearing and then use a dial indicator to measure the max deflection as I wiggle the back on the main shaft. (Note - the lathe is NOT turned on!)

The other two things that seem to help are to re-bush 2nd gear with a very precision fit onto the main shaft - such that you can install it by hand, but it still has a bit of drag on it as you spin it. Make sure you have the correct "end play clearance" - on the tighter side of the assembled main shaft, 2nd gear and synchro assembly.

Lastly, add hard stops to the shifter top - such that when you shift to second, you prevent the shift fork from over-traveling past where it should. I've done all these things (and made my own cluster shaft) on my last two 39 transmissions . . . and they have stayed in gear in 2nd, even on heavy RPMs and wind-downs as such. If you need any more info, just PM me.

[Talkwrench]

Thanks B&S thats just the sort of info I need.. I will PM you soon and give you further info etc.
Thanks, Rob