Restarting a model A after 64 years of sitting.

[M. Philips]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Do they check the bore and stroke when you register it? How would they know if you bored it to stock Model A specs?

Mike

Normally you can't bore a 2.2 to 3.2 ore less, because the cilinder wall isn't thick enough. So I have heard

[1930artdeco]

Oh, I thought it was the same block just bored differently.

[M. Philips]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Yes, if youy remove the bearing caps to inspect. Also look at the cam lobes for signs of rust, while the oil pan is off.

The engine will look more original if you buy the choke rod, correct carb, coil wire, and spark plug straps.

Thanks Tom, I will keep that in mind.
So the Zenith carb is the original carb also for the smaller engines?

[M. Philips]

No no you can see it at the exterior cilinder walls that they are smaller, again so I have been told.

[Brentwood Bob]

Stored car in belgium

If you do these things one at a time you can better control the outcome. I would concentrate on cleaning it up, I would find an expert thru a model a club to help you thru this. I would omit 5 and 6 for now.
pull pan and valve chamber cover and clean the oil galley, and the pan. Why was the car stored? might be a mechanical issue lurking.
use a known good distributor and known good zenith carburator to get it running.
look at the cooling system. see our recent discussions about cleaning the block, and radiator.
replace the wire harness if it is bad, I would look at this before I put power(hook up a new battery) to the car.
There are many things that can go wrong and you want to stiffle the urge to jump in and do a bunch of things all at once.
I have followed up after these guys and usually we went back to reinstalling the original stuff and proceed in a logical manner to work thru the condition of the car and be in control of the outcome.
Be careful disturbing the head, broken studs result.
Bob

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Originally Posted by M. Philips

Thanks Tom, I will keep that in mind.
So the Zenith carb is the original carb also for the smaller engines?

Good question. I have never worked on the small engine and don't know what they used for the carb.

[Bob C]

This link has some info on the small engine.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106566

Bob

[juke joint johnny]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Do they check the bore and stroke when you register it? How would they know if you bored it to stock Model A specs?

Mike

Mike it's a different block casting You can't bore it out to 3 7/8"
The smallbore engine used a normal Zenith carb but with smaller jets and venturi.

John Cochran

[M. Philips]

Hey Bob

The guy I bought the car from also has a 1928 5 window coupe, and he just lives the village next to mine. So I c

[M. Philips]

Hey Bob

The guy I bought the car from also has a 1928 5 window coupe, and he just lives the village next to mine. So I can always go to him for information. But I am also going to check the model a club here in Belgium.
I am just 23 years of age but I have realized in previous projects to always get your focus on one thing at the time. And never to rush into a solution when you are working on older car's ore motorcycles. But she will test my abilities that I am certain of.

[tbirdtbird]

LOve the car, love the patina!! Other than getting the mechanicals straightened out to me the car is worth more unrestored...it is in such good shape. They are original only once. I had a '28 Chevy Coupe all original 70K miles, loved it.

Good luck! Take it slow. Def. drop the pan, it will be full of crud, also the valve cover as mentioned. Then follow the advice already given above. Do not be in a big hurry to turn that crank just yet

[Tudortomnz]

That is a rare Model A & you should endeavour to find out all about French Assembled ones. You do not want to throw an item away that may be original to the car.
The Tudor should have been produced at Trafford Park plant in Britain & exported LHD to Europe.They were assembled & had French content added [ lights etc] at Asnieres near Paris. Check on the firewall data plate, it should confirm this. All the local items & assembly [ required by Govt's in Europe] added to the final cost & Fords became more expensive than the local made small cars which was the whole point of the exercise.
I notice it has a boss on the intake manifold for the RHD pivot arm for the distributor spark control ; I have never seen that on a LHD before; it must be because of English RHD manufacture.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I hope it has the 4:44 to 1 rear end gears, it'll need them! They were great drag racing gears. They were used in V-8 60's & late '30's & early '40's factory 4 cylinder pickups. Our shop truck at the wrecking yard was a PEE Green '40 4 cylinder, perfect truck, after I restored the damage from an engine gas fire.
Bill W.

[Brother Hesekiel]

Fantastic car. When you have it sorted out and are bored, post a photo of the left headlight in detail. I'd love to see the French setup.

[M. Philips]

Originally Posted by Tudortomnz

you should endeavour to find out all about French Assembled ones.

Where should I find more information about the french assembled ones?

[1930artdeco]

There was an article in the Restorer this year about French Model A's. Or it was here on the Barn.

Mike

[swo4rd]

Clean it up using conservation materials...clean it out with a vacuum cleaner, get the mechanical working and move the dogs and the kids in and get on with life.
Swoff