Pressure testing a block. How many lbs?

[1crosscut]

When pressure testing a block how many pounds of pressure should one use?

[SeaSlugs]

http://enginemechanics.tpub.com/1407...e-Tests-54.htm

These guys say submerge the block in water, let it soak, and apply 40 PSI.

[Dave in MN]

I am not saying SeaSlugs link method is right or wrong.

FWIW: I test mine at 15-20 pounds. I do not submerge, I use a soapy solution of water applied to the surfaces with a spray bottle.
Good Day!

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Dave in MN

I am not saying SeaSlugs link method is right or wrong.

FWIW: I test mine at 15-20 pounds. I do not submerge, I use a soapy solution of water applied to the surfaces with a spray bottle.
Good Day!

Your way sounds just as good to me! Model A block is non pressurized cooling system so I wouldn't imagine too much psi is needed.

[100IH]

As a manufacturer representative, I used to sell the test equipment for this test procedure. Dave's post #3 has it right. No more than 30 psi is required. Toys are Us has the bubble mix solution, good for inner tubes as well.

[Tom Endy]

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Snyder's sell a block testing kit. It replaces the head and has a thick rubber gasket. Air pressure is applied through the water inlet and has a mounting device with a gauge that is supplied. I think they recommend 15 lbs. of air pressure. I have run mine up higher. The use of a spray bottle or paint brush with soapy water works well detecting cracks.

Tom Endy

[Jim Brierley]

I do the same as Tom Endy, and have used as much as 40psi.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I would limit it to 15 to 20 pounds, as Dave mentioned, especially if the block is quite rusty inside. Be ashamed to blow out a wall of a block that could have otherwise been used.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I would limit it to 15 to 20 pounds, as Dave mentioned, especially if the block is quite rusty inside. Be ashamed to blow out a wall of a block that could have otherwise been used.

Hey Tom,
Just another opinion, but I'm thinking that ANY block worth expending thousands of $ and many hours on, is not worth the powder to blow it to the junk pile...if it won't hold 40 lbs of air pressure. Of course if a fellow wants to take the chance, it is their opinion that counts there, eh .

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I would limit it to 15 to 20 pounds, as Dave mentioned, especially if the block is quite rusty inside. Be ashamed to blow out a wall of a block that could have otherwise been used.

On the reverse side, it is much better for us professional builders to find out before-hand than after the machine work is completed. Generally speaking though, when a thin area has a crack, you will find out really quickly at 40+ lbs. You, Dave, et/all are correct that it does not take a lot of pressure to find an issue.

[1crosscut]

Thanks for all of the help. I pressurized mine to 40 lbs and it held there for 45 minutes without loosing any pressure. I think I am good to go on this one.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by 1crosscut

Thanks for all of the help. I pressurized mine to 40 lbs and it held there for 45 minutes without loosing any pressure. I think I am good to go on this one.

Nice set up and did the job !
We don't need no stinking $200. special kit, eh !

[eagle]

Too high of pressure will be kind of like testing fuses, you find out that it WAS good.

[1crosscut]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

Nice set up and did the job !
We don't need no stinking $200. special kit, eh !

Simple set up. I borrowed the valve assembly off of my portable air tank, reduced it from 1/2" male pipe thread down to 1/4" male pipe thread and tapped that into a piece of 3/8" steel. Bought a 6" x 6" piece of sheet rubber from the hardware store for less than 5 bucks to use as gaskets. Capped the water inlet with another piece of the 3/8" steel and was all set. Had the pipe fittings and scrap steel already but if one would have to buy it all it could be done for less than 20 bucks or so.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by 1crosscut

Simple set up. I borrowed the valve assembly off of my portable air tank, reduced it from 1/2" male pipe thread down to 1/4" male pipe thread and tapped that into a piece of 3/8" steel. Bought a 6" x 6" piece of sheet rubber from the hardware store for less than 5 bucks to use as gaskets. Capped the water inlet with another piece of the 3/8" steel and was all set. Had the pipe fittings and scrap steel already but if one would have to buy it all it could be done for less than 20 bucks or so.

Nice job Dave ! Where there is some left over stuff and a will...there's a way !

Better your way , than to have some 'machine shop' buy the fancy made test set up, charge a guy for it to do the test....than keep the kit ! Live /learn, eh .