Door lock repair

[rlh37ford]

Need help with repair of my passenger side door lock located in the door (not in door handle) and operated by the external keyed lock cylinder. The door latch with external lock cylinder shown in the photo is from my late ‘30, 68-B Cabriolet. Rotating the lock cam with the external lock shaft no longer locks the door latch, indicating the locking cam may be worn out or broken. The externally operated square lock hole is in the lower left corner of the latch mechanism in the photo. Does anyone have a photo and dimensions of the locking cam that I can use to repair/restore my lock cam to proper size/shape in order to achieve working order? Any guidance in accessing the door lock cam for removal and repair would also be appreciated. Thanks, RLH

[Ron/IA]

rlh - Thanks for asking the question. I too have a passenger door lock that does not work, and have not been successful finding/getting information to repair or have repaired. I hope someone on the Fordbarn can help.

Thanks,

[1930artdeco]

I was having trouble with my lock as well, then I lubed it up with some kroil I think. Now it works like a champ. Sorry that is the only info I can give you.

Mike

[Kevin in NJ]

I have not worked on one of these locks, but I think they are like the 68C in some ways.

I am wondering if you have a wear problem. The sliding part is located with the shoulder rivet and the oval hole in the top right area of the latch in the photo. If that hole goes a bit oval and the rivet shoulder gets a bit flat then the sliding part of the latch can cock off at an angle. This may allow the slider to move enough the lock can not work.

In any event, fixing the wear may be simpler then you think. You can see what I did for the 68C latch on my website, follow the link below.

The locks are pretty simple and use common sense. They usually can be taken apart and reassembled. The big difference is to assemble the unit it may require a couple of spot welds where the original had bent metal or a crimped rivet.

[rlh37ford]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

I was having trouble with my lock as well, then I lubed it up with some kroil I think. Now it works like a champ. Sorry that is the only info I can give you.

Mike

Hi, Mike: Thanks for your suggestion to apply Kroil. But my lock cam turns quite freely when actuated by the external lock cylinder shaft. The problem has to be wear on some sort of cam that remains hidden until I take the latch assy. apart. Appreciate your idea, though. RLH

[rlh37ford]

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Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

I have not worked on one of these locks, but I think they are like the 68C in some ways.

I am wondering if you have a wear problem. The sliding part is located with the shoulder rivet and the oval hole in the top right area of the latch in the photo. If that hole goes a bit oval and the rivet shoulder gets a bit flat then the sliding part of the latch can cock off at an angle. This may allow the slider to move enough the lock can not work.

In any event, fixing the wear may be simpler then you think. You can see what I did for the 68C latch on my website, follow the link below.

The locks are pretty simple and use common sense. They usually can be taken apart and reassembled. The big difference is to assemble the unit it may require a couple of spot welds where the original had bent metal or a crimped rivet.

Hi, Kevin:

I also believe I have a wear problem. Since I haven't bent the crimped tabs yet to open the assy., I don't know what the design looks like. Hence, I felt it wise to ask for help via the FB, hoping someone else has already been through this problem and has advice on opening the assy. without damage. I was also hoping someone had photographed the innards & could also provide dimensions for restoration to the original profile of the lock cam. I've checked your website & couldn't find the section dealing with your 68-C latch. Can you provide a more direct link? Thanks, RLH

[rlh37ford]

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

I have not worked on one of these locks, but I think they are like the 68C in some ways.

I am wondering if you have a wear problem. The sliding part is located with the shoulder rivet and the oval hole in the top right area of the latch in the photo. If that hole goes a bit oval and the rivet shoulder gets a bit flat then the sliding part of the latch can cock off at an angle. This may allow the slider to move enough the lock can not work.

In any event, fixing the wear may be simpler then you think. You can see what I did for the 68C latch on my website, follow the link below.

The locks are pretty simple and use common sense. They usually can be taken apart and reassembled. The big difference is to assemble the unit it may require a couple of spot welds where the original had bent metal or a crimped rivet.

Kevin: I found your section on repair of the 68-C latch. No need to send me a direct link. I will examine your photos; they may help me before I open my latch. ~RLH

[rocket1]

don't be surprised when those crimped taps break off,had to spot weld my latch back together on a ccpu.

[mot]

heat on those tabs before bending will work wonders

[1930artdeco]

RLH, you may also want to get intouch with Dan Gamble of the TownSedan Club. He posted an article on lock restoration an issue or so ago.

Mike

[Skeezixx]

FWIW:

I had a latch on my roadster which didn't always catch (much to the amusement of followers every time I made a right turn). I deduced that from wear the tongue was moving along two axes instead of the one in the original design. That is, it not only slid back and forth when I closed the door but front to back too causing it to not fully catch in the opening because it was sliding at an angle.

Fortuitously, I looked down and and at my feet I saw a piece of plastic strap used to bundle a shipping crate. I cut a piece the right length and slid it under the tongue as a shim to make up for the wear. It's invisible, stays put, and has worked fine for over two years.

[jw hash]

the late 68B latches are real rare . they are nothing like the 68C latches. or SW body latches. I have looked for six years for a pair of them. they can be rebuilt but like Tom said heat up the tabs before bending them and heat them again when putting them back together.

I need to add that are different then the ones that Mike is dealing with.

[rlh37ford]

Originally Posted by jw hash

the late 68B latches are real rare . they are nothing like the 68C latches. or SW body latches. I have looked for six years for a pair of them. they can be rebuilt but like Tom said heat up the tabs before bending them and heat them again when putting them back together.

I need to add that are different then the ones that Mike is dealing with.

JW: You aren't the first to tell me how rare the late 68-B latches are. One knowledgeable vendor told me I'd never find one. Another knowledgeable vendor/owner of a 68-B sent me a driver side latch which turned out to be wrong. I can't understand why they are so HTF. The twist type remote control late was introduced in late Sept. '30 & the 68-B was produced 'til the 68-C was introduced. So all the 31 68-Bs should have this late '30 latch.

[jw hash]

I have been working on three late 68B`s bodies one is finished and the second one is getting close and yes you are correct all of the late 30 and early 31 68B`s had that door latch and some of the 31 murray body four doors had them in the front doors only. the bottom line is you need to fix yours. you can take yours apart weld it up make a new rivet and put them back together. it is not that hard to do.

let me add this. the remotes are the same on most slant window bodies it is the latch that is one of its own