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06-11-2019, 11:52 PM | #1 |
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In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
Specifically the bolts that hold the rear end banjo to axle housings. Gennie Ford bolts don't have treads running all the way to the head of the bolt. This is to reduce leakage past the bolts.
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06-12-2019, 12:55 AM | #2 |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
Tough to find a correct bolt that has the right size to start with...most std has a smaller diameter then some of the originals that was fit bolts...for centering and added strenght.
Getting an unthreaded part is just taking a longer bolt and cutting down the threaded part.. |
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06-12-2019, 06:48 AM | #3 |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
Thread sealer will reduce leakage. More importantly I believe those threads are an interference fit. Do you want SS so they look shiny. Original were painted black.
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06-12-2019, 07:27 AM | #4 |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
Keep in mind that as a general rule SS is weaker than the original bolts and more pron to break. I would be sure to check the torque values if you use SS.
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06-12-2019, 08:20 AM | #5 |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
JSerry, we have bantered about before on "strength" and "torque" questions before, has it ever actually been established just what strength the bolts were in these cars originally when they were built??? Not that much on these V8's could use something stronger than a standard Grade 2 bolt to do the job. I had always wanted to ask Roy Nacewicz what he had his fastener's manufactured to (as to grade) as I never did see any info pertaining to that??? Currently I use my lathe to "turn" the Grade markings & mill stamps off the heads of bolts in a pinch.
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06-12-2019, 08:50 AM | #6 |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
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06-12-2019, 09:23 AM | #7 | |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
Quote:
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06-12-2019, 10:08 AM | #8 |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
I had an illuminating discussion with Roy Nacewicz several months ago. He revealed that the Ford nuts, bolts, etc with a 5 digit part number (for example 20301-S2 1/4-20x3/8 hex head bolt) were standard "hardware store" items... Subject to the manufacturing culture of the time of course. Hardware with a 6 digit part number were special and Ford engineered. One would have to go to the Ford Engineering blueprint to get the correct specifications.
If I am reading my 1937 chassis part book (reprint) correctly the 18 or 48-4025 rear axle differential housing calls for a 350509-S screw, indicating a Ford Engineered item, not a standard hardware item. |
06-12-2019, 10:31 AM | #9 |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
Thanks JSerry & Karl
Very sage advice JSerry, I run into the SS (and its relative strength) issue everyday here at work and have to correct (relay as you did) the fact that its not "as strong" as most people think. Yes, Karl, as I posted above....I think 80% (approx) of these cars can use standard old hardware store grade 2 bolts BUT as I stated the issue could be either A307 grade marking at best AND usually a manufacturers mill stamp at worst. AS I posted in those cases (and where a stronger Grd 5 or Grd 8 bolt may be needed) I put them in my lathe and turn the "marking" off the head, then use 600gt on a DA sander while spinning in the lathe to smooth them off. Thanks so much for you guys imput. |
06-12-2019, 10:40 AM | #10 |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
Good information Karl, thanks.
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06-12-2019, 11:54 AM | #11 |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
A HF nut splitter I tried once broke in half without leaving even a mark on a Ford nut!!!!!
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06-13-2019, 08:29 AM | #12 |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
"Correct" stainless steel hardware? An oxymoron for certain.
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06-13-2019, 08:33 AM | #13 | |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
Quote:
It seems to me the bolts were special but the ol' memory ain't what it used to be. David R., can you weigh in here?
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06-13-2019, 09:11 AM | #14 |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
If you want shiny; get the original Ford banjo bolts chromed.
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06-13-2019, 08:21 PM | #15 |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
Totally Stainless has high grade stainless bolts.
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06-13-2019, 09:22 PM | #16 |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
Mike,
I believe that the threads in the ring and pinion housing are tapered and one should never run a tap in those holes to clean them as they will rue the result. |
06-14-2019, 12:13 AM | #17 |
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Re: In search of correct Stainless Steel hardware
Boy, I’m just too old fashioned. To me nothing beats the look of original unmarked thick headed bolts.
With that said one of the model a vendors used to sell the bolts you are hunting in stainless but without any shoulder of sorts. The Model A used the same bolts with the exception of the torque tube bolts. I built a model A rear for a guy locally and he supplied stainless bolts from whichever vendor it was... they didn’t leak and worked but the end result too me looked too much like a Home Depot hardware isle. |
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