35# vs 40# ?

[700rpm]

I have read that rod bearings should be torqued to 35#, I have also read that they should be torqued to 40#. If the clearance is .0015 at either torque rating, would the greater torque cause the bearings to be too tight?

[harleytoprock]

The clearance won't change. Rod tightness will be the same at both torques.

[Patrick L.]

If a 5# difference in torque changes the clearance, there is something wrong.

[redmodelt]

If the flats on the rod or cap are not flat and parallel that could cause the parts to bow and pinch the crank. I STAND CORRECTED 45 FOR THE ROD NUTS.

[ctlikon0712]

The difference you read might possibly be a wet verses a dry torque. #35 wet vs #40 dry.
http://archives.jampot.dk/Technical/...que_Values.pdf

[Jim Brierley]

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I don't recommend castellated nuts as they have very few full threads. I use ARP nuts and torque to 45#, no cotter pins.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by ctlikon0712

The difference you read might possibly be a wet verses a dry torque. #35 wet vs #40 dry.
http://archives.jampot.dk/Technical/...que_Values.pdf

I have always torqued dry.

[Patrick L.]

If you're using the castle nuts, then starting at about 30# and then twisting until a cotter can be inserted the rating between fasteners will all be different and quite higher than when first starting.

[Nathan_1929]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

If you're using the castle nuts, then starting at about 30# and then twisting until a cotter can be inserted the rating between fasteners will all be different and quite higher than when first starting.

So, I've been curious for a while now. What is the best method for torquing castle nuts?

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Nathan_1929

So, I've been curious for a while now. What is the best method for torquing castle nuts?

Back in those days torque wasn't much worried about. I don't use a torque wrench very often and then only when all fasteners should have about the same 'tonnage' applied to them. When it comes to such fasteners such as the rod and main caps, I start low [ about 30# rods and 70-75#mains] and then tighten just enough beyond that to start the cotter pin. Maybe others do it differently, but, its worked for me for 5 decades.