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03-01-2020, 12:24 PM | #21 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 39
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Re: 1935 Convertible Sedan top restoration story
Folks, thanks for sharing photos and comments so far. I will revisit my earlier posts and edit my inserted photos to attachments. The links I used to the photos might not always exist so I think I should use attachments from now on.
I have spoke with Richard at Oak Bows (717-264-2602) and he can supply the oak header, the rear bow, and the tin plate. However the wood is not a stocked item and an order will take time. I also spoke with Karl at Wescott's and they can supply the wood header and rear bow as well. His supplier does not work every month so the wood pieces might not be "in stock" and like Oak Bows will take time. Both Karl and Richard were helpful in answering my newbie questions. Don Rogers also passed on the name of another gentleman he met at Hersey. His name was Kurt and he can also make a tin plate for me. So there are still places to find the tin plate (which had me worried at first). It was good to learn those large holes in the tin plate were for a rubber plug. Now I have to find a place to source the rubber plug. My plan is to continue to post pictures as my top comes together. Keep the advice and comments coming. There are several of us working on the same topic and we are regularly sharing notes. |
03-03-2020, 01:04 PM | #22 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 39
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Re: 1935 Convertible Sedan top restoration story
For those looking for top rubber parts for the top (like me) I found a page in the Bob Drake catalog (page 506 in their Cat30 pdf file) that is a great illustration of the rubber parts I need. Very helpful for this newbie to visually see what is needed and where it goes.
Note however, this is their online 2016 catalog so prices and availability are subject to change. |
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03-03-2020, 01:09 PM | #23 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 39
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Re: 1935 Convertible Sedan top restoration story
Just another couple of videos showing what I have to work with regarding the wood in the back of the car. If anyone is missing this wood, they might find this helpful. Looks to me like there are 5 pieces of wood that make up the wood that would be used to attach the top.
https://youtu.be/LPe-Y0GW5qo https://youtu.be/JqHHtesPTiw |
04-03-2020, 02:44 PM | #24 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 39
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Re: 1935 Convertible Sedan top restoration story
I'm continuing to work on the convertible top. With the help of others I found where some of the rubber pads go on the frame iron. The top and bottom of the center posts is pretty obvious but the smaller 1 inch square pads were a little harder. I am including some photos so there is a record here on the forum in case someone out there wants to know. I found those square pads were held in place with 6-32 bolt (3/8 inch) and threaded right into the frame iron.
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05-27-2020, 08:06 PM | #25 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 39
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Re: 1935 Convertible Sedan top restoration story
I got a wood header from Oak Bows quicker than I expected (maybe 4 weeks, I lost track of time during this epidemic lock down). It looks great. I put on the top iron brackets in the wood and was pleased to find Oak Bows did some sort of nut insert in the wood to accept my 1/4-20 machine screws. I thought I would need some sort of T-nut but I did not need them.
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05-28-2020, 12:30 PM | #26 | |
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Location: New Jersey
Posts: 832
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Re: 1935 Convertible Sedan top restoration story
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05-28-2020, 01:02 PM | #27 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 642
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Re: 1935 Convertible Sedan top restoration story
do not know of the sequence and time frame of being built but used to own body number #454 It is presently being restored as I understand. kerk
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06-07-2020, 03:36 PM | #28 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 39
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Re: 1935 Convertible Sedan top restoration story
I test fit the oak header and used clamps to position the brackets for the post. This worked well for my set up. I still need to put on the tin plate and rubber bmpers.
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06-07-2020, 03:53 PM | #29 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 39
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Re: 1935 Convertible Sedan top restoration story
Today I test fit the rear wood to the top irons. The shape of the bow and the shape of the irons don't match perfectly. Although I might be able to draw the iron to the curve of the wood with screws, I am a little reluctant to put that strain on the bow. It is not way off. The pictures show how close of a match there is.
I thought I would shave the oak bow a little for a closer fit. I think it would be easier to shape the bow then trying to bend the irons to match the wood. Have any of you had to do something similar? |
06-07-2020, 05:09 PM | #30 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: near Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 403
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Re: 1935 Convertible Sedan top restoration story
My '36 phaeton had the same gap on both sides between the iron and the wood. I showed it to a nearby master woodworker, and he said that he could fill the gap with wood and the seam would not show. And he did.
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06-11-2020, 02:26 PM | #31 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 39
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Re: 1935 Convertible Sedan top restoration story
I am thrilled to report the rear bow is installed without any mods to the oak bow. I put some clamps on to draw in the iron and used a 1/4-20 screw with a T nut insert in the center hole. Then used #12 one inch wood screws in the remaining holes. I also learned I should have a flat 1 7/8” wide x 38” long. 13 gauge steel on the underside of the bow where the window snaps will fit.
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07-07-2020, 10:36 PM | #32 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 39
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Re: 1935 Convertible Sedan top restoration story
I learned about tin strips that go on the 3 iron cross pieces from another 35 convertible sedan owner (Peter F). From what I understand they hold the top padding in place. This was new news to me, I had not idea. Peter sent me an extra one he had and from that I made 5 more. However I used aluminum from Lowes. I found I had tapped holes already in the iron cross overs. I had to clear the threads with a tap and a 6-32 bolt fit right in. I'll attach some photos of the original tin and my aluminum replacement installed on one of the cross members.
I was also in need of a piece of rubber on my irons. It is kind of hard to describe in words so I am including a picture. Apparently I am told Ford had rubber that was fused in the two holes on this iron. Some folks found rubber tubing just the right size. What I did instead was to use heat shrink tubing. Two layers of 3/4 inch tubing went on easily, shrank around the iron and provides the function of the original rubber. I have included a picture of that as well which might help explain my solution. |
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