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Old 07-22-2010, 10:33 PM   #1
'29wagon
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Default stripping motor

okay,
I've got a lot to learn and a long way to go with this project, I've gotten much off this motor to inspect, study and either clean it to reattach or set aside to rebuild or replace at a later date.
I managed to pull the cracked head off without much force other than straddling it and lifting almost straight up. First question, regarding head studs, #3,5,9,11 and 12 forfeited without a fight, should I remove the remaining nine studs, I plan to but what should be the gentlest way to go about this? I know they are stretched and replacing 'em is in my plan.
As for the pistons, they all seem to be slipping snug along the cylinder walls but they too will be pulled for cleaning, inspection and new rings, I cant say that honing will be needed but boring looks to not be necessary so far and that said without a feeler gauge yet.
I am attempting to pull as much off of this thing as it is resting where its lived its days, seems they may have parked it thirty years ago when the head cracked and left it for the worms to eat, being so abundant to just drive off in another.
Anyway this seems to be going alright but if anyone feels the desire to comment or criticize or suggest the next best step in this process , feel free.
I don't want to mess anything up in the break down part here.
This barn's been very helpful and I'm proud to be learning here. Thanks.
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Old 07-22-2010, 11:22 PM   #2
Mike V. Florida
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Default Re: stripping motor

I'm not sure what exactly you are asking except if you should remove the remaining studs and even that you answered by saying "I know they are stretched and replacing 'em is in my plan." The deck needs to be checked for flatness. If the head cracked how is the block?

It's pretty hard to mess up a take down. Bag all the psrts for each cylinder together.
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Old 07-23-2010, 07:43 AM   #3
Dave in MN
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Default Re: stripping motor

" should I remove the remaining nine studs, I plan to but what should be the gentlest way to go about this? "

Try this: Heat the stud to cherry red as close to the the base of the stud as possible without damaging the block. There is no need to get the whole stud red, just the base near the block. At this point give the top of the stud a good rap or two with a 16 oz. hammer (straight down). As the stud cools press a candle or stick of paraffin canning wax against the stud. At first, the paraffin will go up in smoke but when the stud is at the proper temp, it will accept some wax which will run down the stud and follow the threads into the block. The wax will lubricate the threads and the stud will usually back right out with a stud removal tool. Occasionally I have had to repeat the process a second time to free a stubborn stud. I have only broken one stud since an "A" friend gave me this tip.
Good Day!
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Last edited by Dave in MN; 07-23-2010 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 07-23-2010, 09:56 AM   #4
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Default Re: stripping motor

I agree with the others as far as remove all of the syds and keep track of all components. If you are installing new rings you will have to hone the cyl walls to get the new rings to take a seat. Rod
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Old 07-23-2010, 11:35 AM   #5
Charlie Stephens
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Default Re: stripping motor

Where is H.B. California? Is it anywhere near Huntington Beach or Hermosa Beach? If you are in the Southern California area and break off one of the studs call (714) 836-6824 if you decide to have the broken ones removed professionally.

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Old 07-23-2010, 11:56 AM   #6
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Default Re: stripping motor

Thanks for that,
I'll continue to check the block for cracks then flatness once cleared of carbons, and I will bag and label each cylinders parts separate.
As for the studs, I'll give that wax theory a try, paraffin though.
So honing should be considered .
H.B. yes Huntington Beach, but I'm doing this project in Santa Ana at a friends home who is a retired machinist. He had over twenty model A's at one time, but just parked them when they gave in.
I'l keep that phone number should I get into a bind.
Thanks FordBarn.
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Old 12-01-2014, 12:29 PM   #7
C26Pinelake
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Default Re: stripping motor

I had been told that honing was not a choice and it was indeed necessary for the rings to seat properly. You might want to seek a professional opinion before you reassemble the engine.
Wayne
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Old 12-01-2014, 12:33 PM   #8
Charlie Stephens
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Default Re: stripping motor

Quote:
Originally Posted by '29wagon View Post
Thanks for that,
I'll continue to check the block for cracks then flatness once cleared of carbons, and I will bag and label each cylinders parts separate.
As for the studs, I'll give that wax theory a try, paraffin though.
So honing should be considered .
H.B. yes Huntington Beach, but I'm doing this project in Santa Ana at a friends home who is a retired machinist. He had over twenty model A's at one time, but just parked them when they gave in.
I'l keep that phone number should I get into a bind.
Thanks FordBarn.
When you consider honing, consider asking the people that sell you the rings. I am sure they will confirm that it is necessary. Where is HB?

Charlie Stephens
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Old 12-01-2014, 12:34 PM   #9
Bob C
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Default Re: stripping motor

I would hope after almost 4 1/2 years he has the engine together,
unless he works like I do.

Bob
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Old 12-01-2014, 12:37 PM   #10
Rex_A_Lott
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Default Re: stripping motor

I would guess after four years, he probably made up his mind already.
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:02 PM   #11
Bob C
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens View Post
When you consider honing, consider asking the people that sell you the rings. I am sure they will confirm that it is necessary. Where is HB?

Charlie Stephens
Charlie, see posts # 5 & 6.
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