Found a crack in the block

[rotorwrench]

There are few fusion welders around anymore. That is one uncomfortable way to make a living. I imagine they charge accordingly. This is the only way to repair the unobtanium parts though.

[Bolts]

Test pressure was 5 PSI. Bubbles showed up when sprayed with Windex.
Fusion welding is out. Contacted Lock-n-stitch. They said the sleeve MIGHT work but wasn't anything they could do and said they couldn't offer any kind of solution.
Not going to attempt to braze or weld it.
I agree with Ronnie. A two to three hundred dollar block would be a better than paying that much for a sleeve if I could get it done for that.
Thanks everyone.

[Timsalways]

I discovered a small crack on my block the first time I dropped the oil pan. Bummer, I thought, it was right where the gasket and pan mated to the block. So I manipulated the gasket to kinda cover it abit. So far so good, the motor is a 28, and my guess is that crack might be older than me. 4 years later and about 3500 miles a year, that old block is still holding up.

[Bored&Stroked]

I agree on finding another block . . .

I had a 32 V8 block furnace welded last year for a cost of about $600 (to fix a broken off piece that I did!). Also, when you heat up a block like this, one has to assume that all machined areas may need to be re-machined - so welding is the first step in a rebuilding process.

The guy 'Maynard' was about 80 years old and the last guy anybody knew who did this type of work. He told me that he gave up trying to teach his skills to the younger crowd - nobody wanted to work in that environment and always just quit. His business just closed this year as he wasn't in good enough health to run it anymore . . .

[Ol' Ron]

Moroso Makes a great stop leak

[Kurt in NJ]

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A sleeve could work, but having seen what happens in the long term to exhaust manifold, and ex port liners some cars had for emission reasons the metal used for the sleeve would have to be better than ordinary steel

even better would be a sleeve with tapered threads like pipe threads, but they would have to be finer so not as much metal would have to be cut away to make them---yes, a custom tap and tapered threaded sleeve

I was trying to think what would have caused this crack, perhaps frost damage

[big job]

I think I would vote for a sleeve. I would bore it on the mill past the end of the crack
press a cast sleeve in there, thoughts are; low water pressure and low exhaust pressure.
Maybe a angle air grinder with a small cut off wheel to the end of crack. We save things
so think of a dentist drill....

[Jack E/NJ]

If it were mine, I'd try to do the minimum needed to quickly make it a decent runner again, first on a stand wet. Try stop-leak only if needed. Then throw it in the car, run it, and try to forget about that crack. But if it'll make you happier, search for that crack-free block while you're tooling around with the old block.

Jack E/NJ

[flatford8]

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

If it were mine, I'd try to do the minimum needed to quickly make it a decent runner again, first on a stand wet. Try stop-leak only if needed. Then throw it in the car, run it, and try to forget about that crack. But if it'll make you happier, search for that crack-free block while you're tooling around with the old block.

Jack E/NJ

I like this idea. Or, the dentist type drill on the ends of the crack, clean it real good with a dremel and use J-B Weld..... Mark

[Floyd]

Cast iron can be welded successfully if done correctly. A very large factory here in California remanufactures diesel engine blocks and cylinder heads on a production basis. All cylinder heads will generate cracks between valves and injectors. They can repuddle the entire combustion chamber if necessary . No trick million dollar equipment needed. Heat block up to near reddish head in insulated blanket, takes about 24 hours. Weld with gas and use cast iron rod. (no electric welding and no nickel rod involved) . Cool down over 24 to 48 hours and off to the machining operations. They welcome hobbyist with old cracked blocks etc. They weld, braze and stitch depending on problems.
Many of the big diesel heads go out in Cat, Detroit and Cumming boxes.
It can be done !

[A bones]

Originally Posted by Floyd

Cast iron can be welded successfully if done correctly. A very large factory here in California remanufactures diesel engine blocks and cylinder heads on a production basis. All cylinder heads will generate cracks between valves and injectors. They can repuddle the entire combustion chamber if necessary . No trick million dollar equipment needed. Heat block up to near reddish head in insulated blanket, takes about 24 hours. Weld with gas and use cast iron rod. (no electric welding and no nickel rod involved) . Cool down over 24 to 48 hours and off to the machining operations. They welcome hobbyist with old cracked blocks etc. They weld, braze and stitch depending on problems.
Many of the big diesel heads go out in Cat, Detroit and Cumming boxes.
It can be done !

So,,, good news, any contact information?

[Jack E/NJ]

Originally Posted by Ronnie

>>>Cut your losses and find another block. Any repair here would >>>be more than another block.>>>

Originally Posted by Bolts

>>>I agree with Ronnie. A two to three hundred dollar block would be a better>>>

So where did you get that $200-300 figure for a crack-free block?

Jack E/NJ

[Floyd]

To A-Bones
West Coast Diesel in Ontario Ca. (east of LA) Gooogle for info

[Bolts]

Originally Posted by Floyd

Cast iron can be welded successfully if done correctly. A very large factory here in California remanufactures diesel engine blocks and cylinder heads on a production basis. All cylinder heads will generate cracks between valves and injectors. They can repuddle the entire combustion chamber if necessary . No trick million dollar equipment needed. Heat block up to near reddish head in insulated blanket, takes about 24 hours. Weld with gas and use cast iron rod. (no electric welding and no nickel rod involved) . Cool down over 24 to 48 hours and off to the machining operations. They welcome hobbyist with old cracked blocks etc. They weld, braze and stitch depending on problems.
Many of the big diesel heads go out in Cat, Detroit and Cumming boxes.
It can be done !

Thanks for that Floyd. I'll give them a call.

[Bolts]

Apparently West Coast Diesel in Ontario, CA is a closed business. I called and the phone was out of service. Information on the YELP website confirmed this.

[John R]

Industrial-scale machine shops that remanufacture diesel blocks and heads are out there. I am aware of such shops in Idaho and New Jersey. A search of the internet would likely turn up such a shop somewhat convenient to you.

[Floyd]

I did not know West Coast Diesel had closed. I was out there a couple of years ago. They were the go to guys for all sorts of cast iron repairs. I spent an entire day touring the operation with one of the general managers. Impressive work.
The point is cast iron can be repaired and it does not take any modern million dollar computerized equipment. (Although their 12 foot long capacity crankshaft welder/ grinder was a million dollar investment.)
They use firebrick and big thermal blankets to build an igloo over the block or heads and heat with natural gas burners. The preheat takes up to 24 hours.
The one thing they were adamant about was electric welding will never work for a permanent repair. It is too intense and too concentrated and will crack in service in several months.
There only filler material for weldingl used was cast iron rod with borax for flux. Nickel rod is not a viable solution in their opinion. Oxy/acylene torch is the only method to weld the repair.
Lastly, very slow and controlled cooling must be done (24 to 48 hours) or you will create more cracks than you are fixing. I saw examples of every possible method people have tried and failed.
It can be done ,but is still an art.
This is just their story and I am sticking with it.

[47Merc]

As others have said, clean it up and V groove it with a dremel and use this JB product.
http://www.jbweld.com/collections/82...-b-extremeheat

[Bolts]

I read that the exhaust gas temperature is somewhere between 1000-1500 degrees F. With that in mind, I found this stuff. Has anyone ever used this for anything?

http://www.cotronics.com/WEB%20SHEET...plate%20NP.pdf

[Ronnieroadster]

The JB weld extreme heat epoxy is perfect for this aplication. For less than $10.00 you can save the block no need to find a replacement.