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Old 08-29-2018, 01:28 PM   #1
30 Closed Cab PU
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Default New, Introduction, my story

Am new to the Ford Barn, 1930 Closed Cab Pickup that has been in the family since around 1960. Originally born/raised in Belvidere Illinois, ended up in Watertown Wi since 1978. Inherited the A in 2012 when my father passed away. My father born and raised in Minnesota and South Dakota with 5 brothers/sisters on different rental farms, they moved a lot, 10 different places as far as I have been able to find out. He and his brothers ended up in Belvidere since there were a lot of jobs in the Belvidere/Rockford area after WW2. He was a machine tool wirer for Sundstrand's. When I was a freshman in high school we moved from town into the country on a 15 acre farmette, while working full time in town dad raised 20-30 head beef cattle, chickens, a few pigs, corn, and hay. When he was in his late 50s started collecting Massey tractors from the 1950s and before. Most of them he would get running, but not restore. When he was in his late 70s had an auction and sold 50 tractors, after he passed away we had another auction to sell the rest (what he considered his good tractors) and his tools/etc. - another 25 tractors. He was always working on things to resell to make extra cash, and bought the Mod A around 1960, he got it running, repainted it, and used it back and forth 2 miles to work for a couple of summers. Then it sat in different garages/outbuildings. With the help of the Rockford Model As club, we got it out and started it on a Saturday morning in spring of 2011. My hopes were to take him to a family reunion in it, but it needed too much. Overheated/boiled over within a 2-3 miles, when oil was drained it was the nastiest brown color, did not look like oil. Sadly Dad passed away in January of 2012. So hauled it to Watertown, and have been driving it some, having it worked on, and me working on it since. The radiator was bad, full of some kind of black solid crap, not sure if stop leak, or if old black pepper - replaced radiator. I remember my father long ago saying Black Pepper was used to stop radiator leaks. Wiring harness replaced, was 80 years old and insulation was gooey, added fuse on top of starter. Found out lube after 50 years sitting is no longer lube. Oil pan full of sludge and blocked the oil pump - Pan cleaned out and valve access cleaned out and now using multi-weight detergent oil, luckily the Babbitt's/crank are OK. Speedometer rebuilt - oil/grease had solidified. Generator bearings went bad - rebuilt. Distributor bearings went bad - repaired and updated distributor shaft for bearing lube and updated dist. plates. Wheel bearings making noise - was able to clean/repack before destroyed. Water pump went bad/froze, put on a leakless. Rebuilt gas gauge. Rebuilt electric wiper. Serviced horn, did not work. Replaced window regulators so windows would crank.
Front axel bent a couple of inches on one side - straightened. A lot of this work was performed by Templin's Old Time Auto, at the time was a 5-10 minute drive. Sadly for me they have moved to about an hour drive at freeways speeds. The last thing is the cooling system, wants to overheat on 80 degree day at 40 mph. Had a bad head gasket - found a local guy with some experience to replace the head gasket/valve job - Did not help much. Have flushed/back flushed with white vinegar, and thermocure, inspected the block/radiator with a borescope and used a IR Temp gun to take temp readings - all seems good, readings reasonable. Currently am
working with a Barn Senior member, going to do a block test, but we suspect the replacement Radiator is undersized, is unknown manufacturer 2 row 8 fin. With so much having to be done, and me not being a mechanic, paid to have most of this done. Also could not find anyone local that would allow me to do the work while they watched/helped/guided me. Now that I am retired, and the major issues are resolved, am hoping I can do things and the maintenance myself. Looks like it will stay in the family, my son who is in the Air Force stationed in Texas wants it. Having the Ford Barn is definitely a big help now that I know about the site. Attached are a couple of pictures, one from around 1960 before repaint, my dad in the cab, me/my sister standing in the back against the cab, and other family and friends. The other picture is shortly after getting it running, and 50s years of filth washed off. Rims/wheel are from a mid 30s Ford, with same bolt pattern, circumference with tires is the same so speedometer is correct, this is the way my father ran it, am leaving it this way. New tires/tubes and rims/wheels blasted and painted. I call the truck a 50 footer, look real good, but has a little rust and the paint is not A1. Just looking at having it be a reliable runner, preserve it not restoring it, have some fun with.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Washed up.jpg (61.0 KB, 164 views)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Model A Truck.pdf (680.3 KB, 124 views)

Last edited by 30 Closed Cab PU; 10-03-2018 at 11:44 AM.
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Old 08-29-2018, 02:09 PM   #2
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Default Re: New, Introduction, my story

WOW!! Now that's a neat Pickup! It's to be enjoyed, you've earned that.
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Old 08-29-2018, 02:10 PM   #3
Chuck Dempsey
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Welcome to the 'Barn'!
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Old 08-29-2018, 02:27 PM   #4
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It is great that you plan to keep and enjoy it! Model A's don't overheat if things are working properly. Is there a local Model A club for you to join?
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Old 08-29-2018, 02:52 PM   #5
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2 row radiators aren't worth the trouble, from what I read. Replace that first and I bet your overheating problem will go away.

Again, welcome. I've found FB to be the most valuable resource.
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Old 08-29-2018, 03:09 PM   #6
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It is great that you plan to keep and enjoy it! Model A's don't overheat if things are working properly. Is there a local Model A club for you to join?
Am a member of a local club and a member of MAFCAA. When you don't know what you are doing, too many opinions, sometimes conflicting. The club is centered around social, touring, and finding a good place to eat. Not too much actually working on their cars. Do not use them for tech resource anymore. Excellent group of people, just does not suit what I need/needed (someone to hold my hand), I needed so much help. Once running and issues are gone, feel secure with trips/touring, the club will be great.
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Old 08-29-2018, 03:25 PM   #7
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2 row radiators aren't worth the trouble, from what I read. Replace that first and I bet your overheating problem will go away.

Again, welcome. I've found FB to be the most valuable resource.


Thanks for the encouragement/advice. Doing the Block test just to insure I do not have an unknown crack. Was unaware of the test until a Barn member on this site recommended doing it. Also just found out from the site about filtering the upper hose, will be doing that too. So am concentrating the rest of this year with the Test, and making sure all the crap is out, be able to run a 100 miles or more without rust/flakes etc. Next year replace the radiator. Since looking at this site I have seen others with 2 rows also have issues similar to mine. They spent the money for a quality radiator, and life is good. So good the coolant runs to cool. Have to install a thermostat with a bypass. Sound like you are already aware of all, guess I am preaching to the choir.
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Old 08-29-2018, 07:52 PM   #8
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Welcome--Ask--Enjoy.
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Old 08-29-2018, 08:32 PM   #9
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Pm sent.
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Old 08-29-2018, 08:35 PM   #10
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Really nice story. Very cool truck.
Just curious, with the club, who fixes their cars?
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Old 08-29-2018, 10:02 PM   #11
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Get yourself a copy of Les Andrews red book Model A Mechanics Handbook if you don't already have one. There is a lot of good information and how to repair your Model A. Getting your hands dirty grimy and working on it yourself is more than half the fun of it. Encourage your club members to have seminars once a month pertaining to working on a Model A. A lot can be learned from them.
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Old 08-30-2018, 07:12 AM   #12
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Really nice story. Very cool truck.
Just curious, with the club, who fixes their cars?

Thanks for reply.



Most of the member's cars are in close to perfect/restored condition, needing only upkeep/maintenance. The very few who have needed work usually call each other directly when needing help, and I am out of the loop . Now I am retired (recently) am going to beg them at a monthly meeting to include me anytime/anywhere.


I am at the fringes of the club, 20-30 miles from the closest member, not a mechanic, do not have wide range of tools, not many A specific tools, not a good place to work on it , so best to work on mine at another member's location. Might be why I am in this situation. Maybe if I volunteer to work with others on their cars I can get some experience.
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Old 08-30-2018, 07:54 AM   #13
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Get yourself a copy of Les Andrews red book Model A Mechanics Handbook if you don't already have one. There is a lot of good information and how to repair your Model A. Getting your hands dirty grimy and working on it yourself is more than half the fun of it. Encourage your club members to have seminars once a month pertaining to working on a Model A. A lot can be learned from them.

Thanks, appreciate your reply.


Yes, I have that book. Sometimes it is way over my head. Prefer to have someone experienced with me.


Ex: Went to change the oil 1st time, oil drain plug spun, could not remove. So put down some plastic, and removed the pan. Even with reading the Les Andrew's book, missed the step about putting the bolt in the block to hold the oil pump in the block, it dropped into the pan, startled me, spilled oil all over myself and oil overflowed the plastic and oil on the garage floor. A few nasty words were uttered. What a mess. LOL now, but not happy at the time. I will never forget this step again though.


As an fyi, someone had stripped the hole previously, put a plug hole repair part in the pan, but only pressed it in, did not weld/braze it in place. so was an easy fix with the pan dropped. Took it to a local welder, he welded it free of charge after I told him the story - we both had a good laugh.


As far as the club, as far as I can tell not much interest in monthly seminars, but is a great idea. Afraid to push the point, at this time do not want to be put in or have to be in charge of running seminars, other members probably feel the same way. Maybe in a year or 2.


Thanks again.
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Old 08-30-2018, 07:58 AM   #14
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Pm sent.

Hi Bob.


"PM sent?" Do not know what this means.
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Old 08-30-2018, 09:06 AM   #15
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Hello and love your car! I think maintaining the car is part of the enjoyment. If there wasn't something to fiddle with now and then I'd start to worry!


I'm currently down in Kenosha but we are building a house up near Portage, WI. Nice to know that "Old Time Auto" is nearby in Poynette.
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Old 08-30-2018, 10:00 AM   #16
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Hello and love your car! I think maintaining the car is part of the enjoyment. If there wasn't something to fiddle with now and then I'd start to worry!


I'm currently down in Kenosha but we are building a house up near Portage, WI. Nice to know that "Old Time Auto" is nearby in Poynette.


Hi, nice to hear from you.


Am I correct in thinking you have been to the event in Sharon? I've been there 2-3 times, always a good time, did not make it last year. If so, possible we have seen or even bumped into each other. A goal of mine is to get things straightened out where I feel secure enough to drive it there by myself and show it there. Hoping next year my A will be ready.


Do not know if you have if you are familair with Old Time Auto before, Bob and Jeff are great to work with. They also have a large trailer and sell parts at different venues/meets including at Sharon. Also have a website and carry an extensive line of parts. I have no complaints about their work, they always ensure to set cost estimates according to what you want with your expectations. Wish they were still in Lake Mills. They are not a large operation, pretty much just Bob and Jeff, closed when selling parts at meets but monitor phones, best to call 1st, especially if you need work done.


Would like to email direct, is that OK? My email is [email protected]
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Old 08-30-2018, 10:16 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU View Post
Thanks, appreciate your reply.


Yes, I have that book. Sometimes it is way over my head. Prefer to have someone experienced with me.


Ex: Went to change the oil 1st time, oil drain plug spun, could not remove. So put down some plastic, and removed the pan. Even with reading the Les Andrew's book, missed the step about putting the bolt in the block to hold the oil pump in the block, it dropped into the pan, startled me, spilled oil all over myself and oil overflowed the plastic and oil on the garage floor. A few nasty words were uttered. What a mess. LOL now, but not happy at the time. I will never forget this step again though.


As an fyi, someone had stripped the hole previously, put a plug hole repair part in the pan, but only pressed it in, did not weld/braze it in place. so was an easy fix with the pan dropped. Took it to a local welder, he welded it free of charge after I told him the story - we both had a good laugh.


As far as the club, as far as I can tell not much interest in monthly seminars, but is a great idea. Afraid to push the point, at this time do not want to be put in or have to be in charge of running seminars, other members probably feel the same way. Maybe in a year or 2.


Thanks again.
A couple of thoughts:

1. The threads in this hole are tapered pipe threads for brass pipe plug, pressure gauge or oil line for OHV head.

FYI for those that do not know:
Tapered means fitting will only thread into hole about 3/8ths of an inch.
If you are insulted then it is not directed at you ... Xin Loi.


If someone forces a standard bolt into the hole, the tapered pipe threads are ruined and block might be cracked

Venders sell a special "tool" with pipe threads to use to hold the oil pump.

2. The casting is very thin in this area if one tightens too much the casting can break.

Last edited by Benson; 08-30-2018 at 01:29 PM. Reason: Several corrections and additional info added since posted ...
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Old 08-30-2018, 11:07 AM   #18
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A couple of thoughts:

1. The threads in this hole are tapered pipe threads.

FYI for those that do not know:
Tapered means fitting will only thread into hole about 3/8ths of an inch.

If someone forces a standard bolt into the hole, the tapered pipe threads are ruined and block might be cracked

Venders sell a special "tool" with pipe threads to use to hold the oil pump.

2. The casting is very thin in this area if one tightens too much the casting can break.

Thanks for the info, another case why I like having someone experienced with me when doing things by myself the 1st time.
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Old 08-30-2018, 08:04 PM   #19
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Hi:


Welcome to the Model A family, you sure have a nice truck with a great family history. Enjoy your Model A!
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Old 08-30-2018, 08:55 PM   #20
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Jeff Templin's phone #: 920-285-8506. Lots of original parts as well as repro stuff.
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