1938 tudor standard

[compyello]

I am new here and new to old fords. This old ford is new to me as well. There is a long story so I will try to make it brief. This car belonged to my grandfather after he bought it from his grandfather in 1961. There was talk that I was going to one day recieve the car from my grandfather, things happened and the car was sold about 19 years ago. In the past few years I expressed interest in getting the car. My grandpa talked to the then current owner and let things sit. Recently he contacted my grandfather and said he would be willing to sell the car. Well I picked it up last weekend. I have many questions.

[King ford]

Congrats!

[compyello]

Thank you King ford

[ford38v8]

Hey Compy, welcome, pull up a spare tire and get a load off. We got answers to all your questions. Might not be the right answers, but we pride ourselves on our wide diversity of wrong answers!

It would be great if you could fill in your profile with locality, bank account numbers, and key codes, so we know where to find you and how to deal with your questions when the time comes! Post lots of pictures, too!

[compyello]

Thanks for the welcome ford38v8. I guess most of my questions come from me not knowing anything about these cars (not a Jeep CJ or SBC) and not knowing the direction to go with it. I also have my grandpa, dad, and previous owners providing opinions and thoughts. Another problem is finances are tapped out (I have too many project vehicles that all need work) so I am not going to do everything all at once but I want to avoid working against myself or going backwards.
1. One water pump is off. not sure if I want to put it on and see what happens, rebuild it myself, buy new, or send it out to be rebuilt (which seems to be the popular opinon here)?
2. The distributor is off, same as the water pump issues. or convert it to electronic ignition
3. 6 volt or 12?
I do kind of want to start it and drive it around a bit to check everything out so that is why I am tempted to put it together as is. I will start wit hthose questions for now, thanks all

[compyello]

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Here are some more pictures. I forgot to mention it has a newer engine, maybe a 42 mercury?

[tubman]

Nice lookin' car; appears to be in great shape. Please don't get bitten by the "hot rod bug". If one water pump is off, there has to be something holding the engine up. Since it's already apart, you should probably remove the other pump and send them to Skip. It sounds like there was a problem with the distributor, so that should probably be taken off and sent out as well, since they should be set up on a machine. Make sure the fuel system is up to snuff, check the brakes, and drive it for a while to see where you are.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by compyello

Thanks for the welcome ford38v8. I guess most of my questions come from me not knowing anything about these cars (not a Jeep CJ or SBC) and not knowing the direction to go with it. I also have my grandpa, dad, and previous owners providing opinions and thoughts. Another problem is finances are tapped out (I have too many project vehicles that all need work) so I am not going to do everything all at once but I want to avoid working against myself or going backwards.
1. One water pump is off. not sure if I want to put it on and see what happens, rebuild it myself, buy new, or send it out to be rebuilt (which seems to be the popular opinon here)?
2. The distributor is off, same as the water pump issues. or convert it to electronic ignition
3. 6 volt or 12?
I do kind of want to start it and drive it around a bit to check everything out so that is why I am tempted to put it together as is. I will start wit hthose questions for now, thanks all

Great! You have the right attitude, unlike many who start right in dismantling with good but misguided intentions.

1 - Remove the other water pump also. Good to start with known good pumps, so as to not revisit old problems that took it off the road. Try here for rebuilt with improved impellers: (You'll hear Skip's name here often.)
Skip Haney www.fordcollector.com
Remanufactured coils and high volume modified water pumps for flatheads

2- Stay far away from electronic distributors. The distributor you have in hand is as good as it gets. Send it and the coil it has to Skip for a rebuild better than anything new and shiny.

3 - 6 v is all anyone needs. Changing to 12v is only a dirty band aid on oxidized wounds.

4 - You haven't asked yet, but send the radiator out to be flushed and flow tested. Flush the block well before you install the pumps. Be sure to use a rust inhibitor in the distilled water you'll want to use in the system.

You're gonna want the EFV8CA book entitled 1938-39 Ford Book.
You'd do well to join the club, and maybe even a Regional Group as well!
https://www.earlyfordv8.org/early-ford-store.cfm

And a reprint (or CD) of the Ford Service Bulletins.
http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/fordp...er=CD-38-48-SB

More questions?

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

How long has it set since it has been started? Is there oil in the engine? Is the engine stuck or does it turn over? I'd pull the plugs, squirt some Mistery oil in the cyl, take a compression test. Walt

[compyello]

Originally Posted by Walt Dupont--Me.

How long has it set since it has been started? Is there oil in the engine? Is the engine stuck or does it turn over? I'd pull the plugs, squirt some Mistery oil in the cyl, take a compression test. Walt

It has been at least 20 years maybe even close to 30 since it has ran, the engine is free

[flatheadv8]

Congrats on the car, she looks great!

Check out the age of the tires as well. A good looking old tire with decent tread is still an old tire.

[wisbangman]

Is this a 60 or 85 horse engine ? I believe that the 1938 standard with the 60 horse engine, did not have the chrome trim on the grille, as your car appears to show.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by flatheadv8

Congrats on the car, she looks great!

Check out the age of the tires as well. A good looking old tire with decent tread is still an old tire.

I'm a good looking old man, so I can identify.

[compyello]

Originally Posted by flatheadv8

Congrats on the car, she looks great!

Check out the age of the tires as well. A good looking old tire with decent tread is still an old tire.

Thank you. Funny story on the tires, my grandfather stopped at the local firestone. I am sure explained his budget, they discussed the use of the car and he bought four new farm tires at $8 each

[compyello]

Originally Posted by wisbangman

Is this a 60 or 85 horse engine ? I believe that the 1938 standard with the 60 horse engine, did not have the chrome trim on the grille, as your car appears to show.

60 horse car with maybe a 42 mercury 95 or 100 horse transplant. I need to look into the engine more.

[compyello]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Great! You have the right attitude, unlike many who start right in dismantling with good but misguided intentions.

1 - Remove the other water pump also. Good to start with known good pumps, so as to not revisit old problems that took it off the road. Try here for rebuilt with improved impellers: (You'll hear Skip's name here often.)
Skip Haney www.fordcollector.com
Remanufactured coils and high volume modified water pumps for flatheads
Probably the best thing to do I know
2- Stay far away from electronic distributors. The distributor you have in hand is as good as it gets. Send it and the coil it has to Skip for a rebuild better than anything new and shiny.
What about an electronic conversion for the existing distributor?
3 - 6 v is all anyone needs. Changing to 12v is only a dirty band aid on oxidized wounds.
12 volt seemed like a good idea, modern, and maybe easier at times. I may look at a rewire so there are thoughts of converting it at that time.
4 - You haven't asked yet, but send the radiator out to be flushed and flow tested. Flush the block well before you install the pumps. Be sure to use a rust inhibitor in the distilled water you'll want to use in the system.
The radiator may have come from the engine donor car. Someone worked over the hood to provide clearence for the radiator so if it goes to the radiator shop I may have them shorten it also. What is this rust inhibitor? Are you talking about an antifreeze?
You're gonna want the EFV8CA book entitled 1938-39 Ford Book.
You'd do well to join the club, and maybe even a Regional Group as well!
https://www.earlyfordv8.org/early-ford-store.cfm
Is there information in there that is not availabe on-line?
And a reprint (or CD) of the Ford Service Bulletins.
http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/fordp...er=CD-38-48-SB

More questions?

Many... I am sure they will come up. Thank you so far

[Mike in AZ]

welcome to the 'Barn.....great start to the flathead bug...lol...and a family historied car, too...very cool.....maybe some pics of the engine, etc??.....link is to MacVP's website with lots of good info, parts drawings, etc...have fun....Mike

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_home.htm

[compyello]

A few engine pictures and one distributor

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by compyello

Many... I am sure they will come up. Thank you so far

Electronic conversion is still electronic. The Ford dual point distributor is without doubt the ultimate mechanical distributor ever offered on any make of car. Any electronic component is vulnerable to excess heat, of which the Ford Flathead engine has an abundance of.

Electronic controls for ignition are superior if and only if integrated into a central computer control system of fuel, air, and ignition timing, as modern cars are controlled.

12v conversions require considerably more than a 12v battery. you will need voltage reducers for each of your dash gauges, and your fuel sender. You will need your generator replaced, and your starter motor will chew up your ring gear if not reworked for 12v. Your lights will need replacing with 12v bulbs, the list goes on, as do related maintenance issues. ...Again, a 12v conversion is simply a band aid that does not address underlying problems.

I forgot, you are in Iowa, not California. Yes, antifreeze contains a rust inhibitor.

The 60 hp radiator is not adequate for the 24 stud engine. Not knowing what you currently have, I wouldn't go overboard on that radiator until you know what you have. Pictures are golden.

The EFV8CA is more than simply information available online. The club is composed of real flesh and blood men and women worldwide, all with an abiding interest in Ford Motor vehicles manufactured between 1932 and 1953. Participation in club events is not required, nor is the ownership of a club car. That said, there are National Meets and Tours, a thick roster of members to carry in your glovebox, always available for socializing or road emergencies, and an award winning bimonthly magazine devoted specifically to the mutual interests of the membership. ...Then, there are also the Regional Groups of the club, of which there are two in your home state of Iowa, which offer membership and various activities of their own.

[swoopNZ]

Looks like an early 38 std without the stainless trim.