Engine Splash Pans

[Cracker39]

Is there a difference between the engine splash pans for 28, 29, 30 and 31 cars? i.e. - hole spacing, shape, etc.? Bratton seems to sell "one size fits all."

[Fred]

Yes, Many ..

[DougVieyra]

For starting your 'Ball Park' investigation into engine splash pans, recognize that there are two basic types: those made for the 1928-'29 fender style, and yet another design for the later 1930-'31 fender styles. Each of the types may have minor variations as to hole fitting, but they are pretty much the same for each of the two different body/fender styles - the '28-'29 style, and the slightly different '30-'31 style.

[daveymc29]

I have been told most of the vendors list only one size to fit all. They are a better fit for the 30/31 than the 28/29, though the will work, but not for judging. With a little hammer work they will be a better fit on the 28/29 that straight off the shelf. They are a tad far away at the front cross member. compared to the originals.

[Fred]

FYI, For the 1928 cars/trucks they are not even close !!..

[kenparker]

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While working on a customers/friends Model A I discovered and ingenious, as I ahve never seen this before, way to install the Engine Pans. And, yes, engine Pans are a pain in the horse to install when one is by themself. The 1/4" holes in the frame for the 1/4" bolts have been drilled out and tapped for 5/16" bolts. Now all I have to do is lay on my back on the cold concrete and screw the 5/16" bolt upwards into the frame tapped hole. Almost easy.

Is it the way Henry did it? No. Does it work? Yes. ken

[Maclab58]

Great idea.

[pgerhardt]

Here is another thought. Rather than up sizing to 5/16" and tapping, how about a touch of JB weld on the 1/4" nut to attach it to the frame? Just a thought?

[Mitch//pa]

i dont have any trouble installing them the proper way

[Charles Reese]

It is my understanding ...
* Until Oct ’28, each pan included flattened tab at its front end. Each pan bolted to the frame at 6 points (3 to frame, 2 to oil pan bolts, 1 to front cross member). After that, possibly due to their rigidity (cracking) and change in the engine mount, the front tabs were folded up and the bolt hole eliminated..

* Initially, unique-head bolts were drilled for cotter pin (no lock washer). After mid ’29, the bolts were not drilled and used lock washers. Bolts were inserted from the top side of frame.
*A20553 Engine pan to frame bolt (cross drilled for cotter): 1/4”-28 x 9/16” (fillister head screw) …{plain}
*A21666 Engine pan to frame bolt (thick head, square) … slight chamfer on top face of nut: 1/4”-20 (3/16”t x 1/2”) …{plain}
*A23515 Engine pan to frame bolt cotter: 1/16” x 1/2” …{plain}

[Synchro909]

Are the pans the same for RHD and LHD? Does the steering box/pitman arm foul them if I try putting the repro ones now available on a RHD car.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Charles, did you mean to say "hex head" rather than "fillister head"?
I don't recall ever seeing fillister head on engine side pans.

[glenn in camino]

Originally Posted by kenparker

While working on a customers/friends Model A I discovered and ingenious, as I ahve never seen this before, way to install the Engine Pans. And, yes, engine Pans are a pain in the horse to install when one is by themself. The 1/4" holes in the frame for the 1/4" bolts have been drilled out and tapped for 5/16" bolts. Now all I have to do is lay on my back on the cold concrete and screw the 5/16" bolt upwards into the frame tapped hole. Almost easy.

Is it the way Henry did it? No. Does it work? Yes. ken

I did that on my modified car, I know it's not correct, but it's much easier.

[Mike V. Florida]

Another case of the restoration guidelines coming in handy.

[Cracker39]

I've been waiting for someone to say just what the "variations" are in the vendor supplied pans with respect to a '31. Do the mounting holes in the pans need to be elongated or re-drilled - or does the pan need to be trimmed or re-bent?

[briphaeton]

I picked these up many years ago and was told they also used spring as shown in photo.
Explains the reason that both nut and bolts were drilled.
Brian

[Charles Reese]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Charles, did you mean to say "hex head" rather than "fillister head"? I don't recall ever seeing fillister head on engine side pans.

Hmmmm …. On boy! Me thinks I’ve open a can of worms (bolts/nuts)!!!
================================================== ==========
As an aside, I found a typo in my original entry: A21666 Engine pan to frame bolt (should read NUT) (thick head, square) … slight chamfer on top face of nut: 1/4”-20 (3/16”t x 1/2”) …{plain}.
================================================== ==========
My original engine pans (Jan 28 vehicle) were secured with the hex head bolts (w/ chamfered edges and cotter hole) I showed earlier in this thread … that doesn’t make it right, just what I found.
================================================== ==========
The info I posted is from Mick Isbell’s Hardware Manuel:
* A-20553 1/4-28 x 9/16 fillister head screw (8 needed)
-- notation “deleted Dec 1929”
-- in retrospect, it makes no sense that this would be a ‘fillister head’ … this may be an example of the transposition of data in the Manual that has been discussed on FB previously. My apologies for leading us astray!!
* A-20534 1/4-28 x 1/2 bolt
-- no mention of cotter hole
-- presumably, this was after Dec ’29 and may have coincided with the change in the mounting of the pan at the front cross member
* A-21666 1/4-20 (3/16 x 1/2) square nut
?? notice that the bolt is 28 thread; the nut 20 thread {typo?}
================================================== ==========
The 1-1-28 PPL & 10-1-28 PPL shows:
*A-20553 1/4-28 SAE x 9/16 square head bolt with cotter hole (8 needed)
-- this conflicts with the unique hex-head bolts which I believe were original to my vehicle
* A-21666 1/4-20 SAE (3/16 x 1/2) square nut (6 needed)
?? notice that the bolt is 28 thread; the nut 20 thread {typo?}
================================================== ==========
I dont have the various PPLs between these dates ...
================================================== ==========
The 7-1-31 PPL shows:
* A-20553 & cotter apparently obsoleted by now
* A-20534 1/4-28 x 1/2 hex head bolt (no mention of cotter hole)
* A-21666 1/4-20 (3/16 x 1/2) square nut
* A-22150 lock washer
================================================== ==========

[Tom Wesenberg]

Thanks Charles,
I do recall the nut thread count being a mistake in the original PPL, and it should be 28 TPI.

[Charles Reese]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Thanks Charles, I do recall the nut thread count being a mistake in the original PPL, and it should be 28 TPI.

what's your thoughts re: the discrepancy between the PPL saying 'square head' and my 'hex head' bolts? other 'early' guys have assured me that the hex style i have is correct.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Hex is all I've seen, so I'd believe the "SQUARE" is another mistake.