Almost done with restoration but shifting problem, and more.

[Modelakid31]

Originally Posted by James Rogers

The key here is, as he says, "i have had a few local oldtime model a guys take it for a drive and the can shift it". If someone else can shift it but he can't, the problem is with the operator.

Correction: typo. CANT shift it.

[1crosscut]

Originally Posted by Modelakid31

The clutch is adjusted dead on. When stopped in neutral i can hold the gas down for a fast idle or immitating driving and then putlsh in the clutch while still holding te gas and the disc stops in less than 3 or 4 seconds. As far as oil i have closer to 600wt as you can get its way better and closer to original thickness that to crap the dealers sell. The heating problem, i consider too hot when you cant even touch the head or get close to it without feeling the heat.

Get a cheap meat thermometer and check the water temperature. You will know the temp for sure that way.

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by Modelakid31

Correction: typo. CANT shift it.

One letter can change the whole context of a sentence. That changes EVERYTHING. You need to pull that transmission and see what is wrong. I still believe, operator error. If the transmission is working correctly and, the Model A tranny is so simple there is not much that can go wrong, I can shift it and not scrape gears any worse than anyone else using a good clutch. If it will shift through the gears when the engine is stopped and the car is standing still, I can shift it when it is running and moving and, so should you be able to.

[Modelakid31]

Just got home from work. Asked my boss today about it and i am gonna check the brakes. The car could be draging and thus slowing down between each gear not allowing the trans and engine to match.

[Modelakid31]

I took it around the block just now before touching the brakes and i Revved the engine up a bit as i double clutch (as you do downshifting) and it shifted as it should. So that makes me feel checking for a dragging drum may be the solution. They grab with the slightest touch of the pedal and i have had a loud sound from the shoes when on the brakes.

[Terry, NJ]

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It sounds like your clutch is not disengaging from the engine. Have you tried checking the pilot bearing? You took the trans out and it was fine, IIRC, then you put it back and you have trouble. Perhaps it's your pilot bearing dragging. With the top off the trans, and the clutch depressed, try turning the input shaft and see how free it is.
Terry

[Dad's Dream]

It sounds like the gear oil weight. Too heavy and it slows down the gears too quickly - which is why when you rev it, it shifts normally. Also, you stated during one run, it shifted better when it warmed up - the oil will thin as it warms up and let it shift easier.
I had a DOGde Dakota that did the same thing. When I changed to a lighter weight oil, it shifted normally.
Gerry

[christian]

one of the first things I did when I got my barn find home was pulling the head. The thing hadnt been on the road since the 50s so I figured it would be a good idea. I found the water passages all filled with mouse nests, i kid you not mouse nests. If i tried to run it, there is no way water would have been able to flow.

[Bruce_MO]

I had a similar clutch problem over 40 years ago when I did my 1st A. I pulled the transmission 3 times and couldn't get it to shift right w/o grinding. Terry Oberer, who some of you may remember, came and helped me figure out that the clutch disc wasn't freely sliding on the input shaft. We took a die grinder and dressed the spines on the input shaft a bit to make sure the disc would slide nicely...problem solved. So I agree with Tom's earlier comment to check that out.

Good luck.

[Will N]

A couple years ago I replaced my repro chrome shift lever with a butler nickle replated original that I bought at Hershey. The ball at the end that engages the shift forks had been built up round with weld before it was plated. With the old repro, I was able to shift with no grinding. With the new restored original, I found at first that I had to be really precise with the motion of the shift lever, and I had to double clutch between every shift or else it there would be grinding. It might have been that the ball was built up too much. I didn't check the diameter before installing. Anyway, it's gotten better (or maybe I've gotten better) over time, and I don't have to double clutch up through the gears any longer. The ball may have worn in some these last couple years.

[James Rogers]

Gentlemen, as for the clutch disk sliding on the shaft. He said he can remove the inspection cover and the clutch plate stops in a couple of seconds. If the plate were stuck and not sliding, this would not happen and the disk would not stop. I agree with the brake problem although, I have never experienced this.