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Old 09-17-2021, 08:23 PM   #21
Dougs 28
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Default Re: Overheating 1930 Model A

Bergs, can’t go wrong, simply the best..!
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Old 09-17-2021, 08:44 PM   #22
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Default Re: Overheating 1930 Model A

Do you have engine pans? I had overheating issues and went back to the pans and a new 2-bladed fan. Then I had a problem getting her up to operating temp (she ran at about 120*), so I added a thermostat and now she happily stays at 160*. My radiator is the original and has been boiled out and cleaned at a radiator shop. My coolant level stays just above the radiator fins and I use a 50/50 premix of antifreeze/coolant.

Good luck.
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Old 09-18-2021, 03:35 PM   #23
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Default Re: Overheating 1930 Model A

Gufshoz makes an interesting point. I have driven my A with engine pans, and without. Just seems to me like the pans help suck the heat out.
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Old 09-18-2021, 03:52 PM   #24
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Joe, what i would do before I invested in a new radiator is flush your rad out. I flushed mine out with 3 gallons of vinegar by going for a 30 mile drive, Came home and drained it and used a 2 /3 vinegar to water, went for a drive and drained it and then did a 1/3 mixture and drained it. I then ran water through the rad, filled it with water and went for a drive. I repeated this three times and my water was finally clean after the last drain.
I bought a hand held heat sensor from Napa and shoot my temp regularly, i80 degrees is not out of line IMHO
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Old 09-18-2021, 06:05 PM   #25
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Default Re: Overheating 1930 Model A

Joe before you invest in a new radiator make sure your timing is actually okay.
Your wrote in your first post that you thought your timing "seemed okay". Maybe re visit the timing again just to be absolutely sure. Timing can make a huge difference.

You've also posted that you have been shutting it down when your temperature gauge has reached 180 degrees. Take the cap off and place a dial meat thermometer directly into the coolant. You can drive with the cap off and with the thermometer in place. That way you can pull over when your dash mounted gauge reaches 180 etc... and check to see if the gauges agree.

Go ahead and keep driving it after reaching 180 and see just how hot it gets.
With the cap off you will see it starting to steam and boil over before things get too serious and damage your engine. (if radiator is too full it cam mimic an over heat / your gauges will tell you if that is the case) Just stay close to home and be willing to pull over and rest the engine for a bit if it actually does start to get too hot and boil over.

One more thing to check is for a failed head gasket. Remove the fan belt and watch the coolant for bubbles when revving the engine some. The kits to test for compression gasses in the automotive parts stores or online are fairly inexpensive and leave pretty much no question if you do or do not have a compression leak.

I think that there's a reasonably good chance you won't need to spend the money on a new radiator.
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Old 09-19-2021, 06:44 PM   #26
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I'll flush the radiator tomorrow and check for bubbles before I do anything.
Thanks for the mentorship
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Old 09-19-2021, 06:48 PM   #27
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Thanks Crosscut, I'll try those recommendations tomorrow.
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Old 09-19-2021, 06:49 PM   #28
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Thanks Gufshoz, I do have the engine pans. I've had them on for over 6 years now.
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Old 09-19-2021, 06:51 PM   #29
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Urrrahh, thanks Jayvee34, I'll run it to see what my max temp is tomorrow and let everyone know. Thanks again for the advice.
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Old 09-19-2021, 06:52 PM   #30
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Thanks Old31
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Old 09-19-2021, 06:53 PM   #31
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JoeMarine, from an old retired Navy man, I would recommend a Berg Radiator. I was given the same advice when I had a overheating problem with my 1930 Model A Coupe. A Bergs Radiator has never let me down and I highly recomend one if you are in the budget for it. Take care shipmate. Hugh
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Old 09-19-2021, 06:53 PM   #32
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Thanks Illinois John.
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Old 09-20-2021, 11:45 AM   #33
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Default Re: Overheating 1930 Model A

Quote:
Originally Posted by nkaminar View Post
With my heat gun I measured 170 degrees at the head and 200 degrees at the pan while the temperature gauge installed in the output neck measured 140. This was while driving at 45 on a level road in summer.
That's a good trick.

Quote:
Water boils @ 212 degrees, 180 is considered normal, when it starts getting 200 and rising I would get concerned. If it is not steaming or blowing hot water out of the overflow or the cap and temp is below 200 I would not consider it to be running hot.
Ditto
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Old 09-20-2021, 12:43 PM   #34
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Disconnect bottom hose and plug inlet with a rag . Run garden hose into filler and see that it flows right through. Hold hand over bottom and fill and remove hand and water should gush out.
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Old 09-20-2021, 12:43 PM   #35
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Do same with block
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Old 09-20-2021, 06:34 PM   #36
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Default Re: Overheating 1930 Model A

1CrossCut, Jayvee34, Gufshoz, Gene and the rest of the professionals on line . . . thank you again.

I took all your advice and here are the results:
Drove the car for almost one hour.
Put a meat thermometer in the radiator neck and the highest the temperature ever got was around 195 . . . both at the neck and on the gauge I've installed.
I also checked to see if any bubbles were 'percolating' with the cap off . . . never saw any bubbles so I believe the gasket on the head is okay.
I still haven't flushed the system but will do so next week.
All that said, you all saved me big bucks. I don't plan to buy a radiator for now.
I'm hoping after I flush the system the temperature will be a little less than 195.
Looking forward to driving the vehicle further and longer than before.
Again, many thanks to you all.
God Bless and Semper Fidelis
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Old 09-20-2021, 07:38 PM   #37
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Default Re: Overheating 1930 Model A

Glad your gaining on it.
When you flush the radiator most do so to try to get out rust. First use Simple Green or some dishwasher detergent to get the grease (usually from years of excess greasing of the water pump) out that may be coating things.
After that go after the rust.
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Old 09-21-2021, 10:27 AM   #38
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Default Re: Overheating 1930 Model A

If one uses dishwasher detergent to clean the cooling system be sure and get the low sudsing type. Don't ask.
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Old 09-21-2021, 01:18 PM   #39
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Default Re: Overheating 1930 Model A

IF the water looks rusty BEFORE draining if you have a concrete driveway, drain it in the street or on the grass. Concrete will most likely stain. FWIW
Paul in CT
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Old 09-21-2021, 10:29 PM   #40
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Rear water jackets around # 4 have a tendency to store egg corn shells . The head does so as well . And...No ! I do not have a clue how those nuts and pieces of seat material gets in there
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