The Ford Barn

Ol' Ron · 11-12-2018, 10:17 PM

Has anyone ever used a hydrolic throw-out bearing . Have a T-5 behind a 59 block and this would help.

Tinker · 11-12-2018, 10:35 PM

Hey Ron, I'm sure you'll get answers here. But if you join the hamb also, you might find they will help you too and really appreciate you.

I have nothing to add besides that, as your post are always above my pay grade.

Ol' Ron · 11-12-2018, 11:17 PM

Besides my bad spelling, for some reason the guys on the Hamb don't like me. I built some bad fuel injection "Y" block and SBC back then too.

Tinker · 11-12-2018, 11:27 PM

Hahaha. Most of the good guys that have info there, are here anyways. The rest can be bit of a zoo.

big job · 11-13-2018, 06:07 AM

Simply put: I would not. They are junk made out of plastic. Even slave cylinders now
these days are plastic plus the fact both have no real feel from the pedal. And when the
hydraulic / bearing fails you know what has to be done engine out or tranny out.
I had a 1980s F150 6cyl. 4x4 and that was like two days of work to replace that total
stupid invention... go mechanical been around since day one...I'm sorry but I just can
not get a grip on so called "modern" junk programmed to fail....sam

Frank Miller · 11-13-2018, 07:07 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I'm sure there are a lot of tried and tru methods but if the post above gives you concern there is this alternative.
http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...ulic_slave.htm

JSeery · 11-13-2018, 07:38 AM

I thought they were used on some years of Chevy's with T-5s? I'm not sure, have one in my shop my grandson was playing around with, but we never installed it in anything. The ones I have messed around with are not plastic. I too would shy away from any OEM plastic units. There are high performance (race) units that are not overly expensive out there as well.

BUBBAS IGNITION · 11-13-2018, 09:02 AM

Ron,

I have ran a hydraulic throwout bearing in my Model A hot rod for 10-11 years , did have to replace it once due to a leaky seal but over all they work great. I bought mine from Speedy Bill and they carry the seals as well. Clutch effort is very easy and it solvedd al ot of linkage problems with a four speed , GMC six powered car.......

BUBBAS IGNITION · 11-13-2018, 09:04 AM

The A.......

JSeery · 11-13-2018, 09:09 AM

Looking over on the HAMB, there does seem to be problems with some installs. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-12723870

itslow · 11-13-2018, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by big job

Simply put: I would not. They are junk made out of plastic. Even slave cylinders now these days are plastic plus the fact both have no real feel from the pedal. And when thehydraulic / bearing fails you know what has to be done engine out or tranny out.

1) There are all-metal (aside from the rubber seals) hydraulic throwout bearings and slave cylinders on the market.
2) They can most certainly provide "real feel" from the pedal.

An alternative would be to use the stock type throwout arm with an externally mounted slave cylinder. This would eliminate the need to pull the transmission off the engine to replace a failed cylinder, while allowing you flexibility in not having to figure out a mechanical linkage from the pedal.

bill3337 · 11-13-2018, 10:15 AM

I've had a GM hydraulic clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder in my '33 Ford Coupe, with a standard thowout bearing and arm for the last 20 years with my T5. During that time I've but about 65,000 miles on it and I've loved it. I would have preferred to have a mechanical linkage, but there was no way I could make it work. This set up works well and feels good. It's easier on the knee too, if you get caught in rush hour traffic. If you are using a T5, make sure the sleeve around the input shaft is steel, not aluminum, as the aluminum can gall up and get sticky. I changed mine after that happened.

Krylon32 · 11-13-2018, 10:24 AM

When I was building my first T5 Kits years ago I pondered what to do to activate the clutch. I decided on a hydraulic slave that bolts on the side of the trans and uses a push rod going forward to a 36 style lever. I've sold 100's of them with no problems. I was always concerned about the hydraulic brg leaking and making a mess of the clutch? At least with mine it keeps the fluid on the outside.

Karl Wescott · 11-13-2018, 10:30 AM

Ron, thats CREATIVE spelling, not bad.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Besides my bad spelling, for some reason the guys on the Hamb don't like me. I built some bad fuel injection "Y" block and SBC back then too.

rich b · 11-13-2018, 10:53 AM

A $25 dollar Chev pick-up slave, a $50 '39 up Ford master, a little fabricating, and you will have a great working system; while saving $100's over the fancy aftermarket stuff that may very well not work as good or last as long anyway.

FL&WVMIKE · 11-13-2018, 01:17 PM

One thing to look out for on hydraulic throw-out bearings, is lack of stroke. A mechanical linkage will will generally release a lot further than the hydraulic versions. Be sure to account for this when setting one up. Everything has to be 'right'. You can't have a bunch of space between the TO bearing and clutch fingers at rest, or it won't disengage enough for clean shifts.

modeleh · 11-13-2018, 01:30 PM

Good point Mike
A friend of mine put one in an early Nova and had lots of trouble getting the travel correct. Then had a leak when piston traveled to far. He’s had the transmission out a bunch of times. I’m not a fan of that kind of trial and error but once they are setup right they can work. Like others have said if you can get away with an external slave then I think it’s a lot easier for maintenance and setup.

BUBBAS IGNITION · 11-13-2018, 03:11 PM

Speedy Bill has it all. The Howe is the one we use and i also bought the set up tool to make the travel adjustment easier....

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Searc...rowout+bearing

Ol' Ron · 11-13-2018, 08:14 PM

I should explain my problem. The race engine is an 8ba block, and the street engine is a 59 series block. I've been using Toyota hydrolic master and slave cylinders. To make things easy to swap engines I decided to use a hogs head to mount the transmission. Unfortunately my slave cylinder mounting brackets mounted on the 8BA bell housing bolts. After eliminating the stupid factor. I mounted the slave cyl in a different location, so now the type engine doesn't matter. I'll try and get another video made up so you can see the progress we've made this summer. Not much, I'm afraid, everybody has had some health problems. Getting old will do that.

JSeery · 11-13-2018, 08:45 PM

Looking forward to your video Ron.

11-12-2018, 10:17 PM	#1
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,860	Hygrolic throwout bearing?? Has anyone ever used a hydrolic throw-out bearing . Have a T-5 behind a 59 block and this would help.

11-12-2018, 10:35 PM	#2
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: Hygrolic throwout bearing?? Hey Ron, I'm sure you'll get answers here. But if you join the hamb also, you might find they will help you too and really appreciate you. I have nothing to add besides that, as your post are always above my pay grade. Last edited by Tinker; 11-12-2018 at 10:47 PM.

11-12-2018, 11:17 PM	#3
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,860	Re: Hygrolic throwout bearing?? Besides my bad spelling, for some reason the guys on the Hamb don't like me. I built some bad fuel injection "Y" block and SBC back then too.

11-12-2018, 11:27 PM	#4
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: Hygrolic throwout bearing?? Hahaha. Most of the good guys that have info there, are here anyways. The rest can be bit of a zoo.

11-13-2018, 06:07 AM	#5
big job Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Dighton, Mass Posts: 1,230	Re: Hygrolic throwout bearing?? Simply put: I would not. They are junk made out of plastic. Even slave cylinders now these days are plastic plus the fact both have no real feel from the pedal. And when the hydraulic / bearing fails you know what has to be done engine out or tranny out. I had a 1980s F150 6cyl. 4x4 and that was like two days of work to replace that total stupid invention... go mechanical been around since day one...I'm sorry but I just can not get a grip on so called "modern" junk programmed to fail....sam

11-13-2018, 07:07 AM	#6
Frank Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auburn, MA Posts: 2,106	Re: Hygrolic throwout bearing?? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I'm sure there are a lot of tried and tru methods but if the post above gives you concern there is this alternative. http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...ulic_slave.htm __________________ “The technique of infamy is to start two lies at once and get people arguing heatedly over which is true.” ~ Ezra Pound

11-13-2018, 09:02 AM	#8
BUBBAS IGNITION Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: SPEEDWAY INDIANA Posts: 4,148	Re: Hygrolic throwout bearing?? Ron, I have ran a hydraulic throwout bearing in my Model A hot rod for 10-11 years , did have to replace it once due to a leaky seal but over all they work great. I bought mine from Speedy Bill and they carry the seals as well. Clutch effort is very easy and it solvedd al ot of linkage problems with a four speed , GMC six powered car....... __________________ If it Makes Spark, we do it !!!! www.bubbasignition.com [email protected]

11-13-2018, 09:09 AM	#10
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: Hygrolic throwout bearing?? Looking over on the HAMB, there does seem to be problems with some installs. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-12723870

11-13-2018, 10:15 AM	#12
bill3337 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Victoria, British Columbia Posts: 176	Re: Hygrolic throwout bearing?? I've had a GM hydraulic clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder in my '33 Ford Coupe, with a standard thowout bearing and arm for the last 20 years with my T5. During that time I've but about 65,000 miles on it and I've loved it. I would have preferred to have a mechanical linkage, but there was no way I could make it work. This set up works well and feels good. It's easier on the knee too, if you get caught in rush hour traffic. If you are using a T5, make sure the sleeve around the input shaft is steel, not aluminum, as the aluminum can gall up and get sticky. I changed mine after that happened.

11-13-2018, 10:24 AM	#13
Krylon32 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,484	Re: Hygrolic throwout bearing?? When I was building my first T5 Kits years ago I pondered what to do to activate the clutch. I decided on a hydraulic slave that bolts on the side of the trans and uses a push rod going forward to a 36 style lever. I've sold 100's of them with no problems. I was always concerned about the hydraulic brg leaking and making a mess of the clutch? At least with mine it keeps the fluid on the outside.

11-13-2018, 10:53 AM	#15
rich b Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Minnesota Posts: 1,826	Re: Hygrolic throwout bearing?? A $25 dollar Chev pick-up slave, a $50 '39 up Ford master, a little fabricating, and you will have a great working system; while saving $100's over the fancy aftermarket stuff that may very well not work as good or last as long anyway.

11-13-2018, 01:17 PM	#16
FL&WVMIKE Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Daytona Beach, Fl & Spencer, W. Va, Posts: 4,442	Re: Hygrolic throwout bearing?? One thing to look out for on hydraulic throw-out bearings, is lack of stroke. A mechanical linkage will will generally release a lot further than the hydraulic versions. Be sure to account for this when setting one up. Everything has to be 'right'. You can't have a bunch of space between the TO bearing and clutch fingers at rest, or it won't disengage enough for clean shifts. __________________ Mike Jr. here. I get on here every few months to check messages, and look through his almost 500 saved messages for information on the '29 and '34 I still have. A lot of very nice people on here. He truly enjoyed Ford Barn.

11-13-2018, 01:30 PM	#17
modeleh Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Nanaimo BC Posts: 242	Re: Hygrolic throwout bearing?? Good point Mike A friend of mine put one in an early Nova and had lots of trouble getting the travel correct. Then had a leak when piston traveled to far. He’s had the transmission out a bunch of times. I’m not a fan of that kind of trial and error but once they are setup right they can work. Like others have said if you can get away with an external slave then I think it’s a lot easier for maintenance and setup.

11-13-2018, 03:11 PM	#18
BUBBAS IGNITION Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: SPEEDWAY INDIANA Posts: 4,148	Re: Hygrolic throwout bearing?? Speedy Bill has it all. The Howe is the one we use and i also bought the set up tool to make the travel adjustment easier.... https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Searc...rowout+bearing __________________ If it Makes Spark, we do it !!!! www.bubbasignition.com [email protected]

11-13-2018, 08:14 PM	#19
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,860	Re: Hygrolic throwout bearing?? I should explain my problem. The race engine is an 8ba block, and the street engine is a 59 series block. I've been using Toyota hydrolic master and slave cylinders. To make things easy to swap engines I decided to use a hogs head to mount the transmission. Unfortunately my slave cylinder mounting brackets mounted on the 8BA bell housing bolts. After eliminating the stupid factor. I mounted the slave cyl in a different location, so now the type engine doesn't matter. I'll try and get another video made up so you can see the progress we've made this summer. Not much, I'm afraid, everybody has had some health problems. Getting old will do that.

11-13-2018, 08:45 PM	#20
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: Hygrolic throwout bearing?? Looking forward to your video Ron.