The Ford Barn

Tom Wesenberg · 03-11-2016, 01:39 AM

As mentioned, that engine needs to come apart and get a thorough cleaning. Then I'd also try the adhesive. If the broken parts later came loose, they'd just lay in the valve galley. You could even lay a strong magnet next to the broken area to catch the parts if they did break off again.

colin1928 · 03-11-2016, 03:50 AM

If it were mine I bore out and install a sleeve

Dodge · 03-11-2016, 03:51 AM

I would bore the hole out a bit and make a stepped sleeve and press it in. Turn the
drive housing down a bit and you would be good to go. It will take some tricky machining
to get down in the block but I think I could be done. I'd try it if it were mine.

Kurt in NJ · 03-11-2016, 08:31 AM

I would consider a mechanical repair, take a long bolt, 2 washers, cut a notch in the washer used for the top, use the bolt and washers to clamp the broke piece into position, then through the notch drill a small hole that is the size of a small machine screw (6-32?or so)---tap the hole for threads, put in screw till it bottoms, cut off flush, move washer and put in another screw -----there would be no need to have a perfect seal, any slight leakage would just go into the valve chamber

12secvx · 03-11-2016, 08:51 AM

I will try to take the pan off today and see what the actual state Babbitts look like and then I guess that will probably gauge how much should get into the repair. It does look like it has been through a fairly hard life. There is just no way of telling from the outside how good a used a motor really is. Which is why I took it apart in the first place. I had a bunch of spare parts and gaskets laying around and was planning on making a decent running motor to use this summer then store as a back up. I have a C head and rebuilt water pump for it as well as a B cam with good used lifters. I will post some pics when I get it apart.

1955cj5 · 03-11-2016, 10:47 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Take it slow, take pictures, and ask questions!

Books are always recommended. This is a good place to start..

http://parts.modelastore.com/show_Product.asp?ID=6046

And Bert's has lots of used original parts if you need anything...

The oil pump will drop out when you take the pan off, and if the engine hasn't been upside down on a stand there will be about a quart of oil in the dip tray, even if the pan is empty...

Tinbasher · 03-11-2016, 06:08 PM

Yes use the adhesive to bond the pieces back in place. Light years ahead of JB weld.

John Poole

12secvx · 03-11-2016, 07:37 PM

I got the block apart at work today the main Babbitts look decent they have a couple cracks on in the #1 main on the block side and one on the rear main on the cap but it is on the inside thrust toward the #1 Cyl. All the rods looked good also.

Rowdy · 03-11-2016, 08:42 PM

I hope you did not take my statement on finding someone to help adjust the bearings the wrong way. Seen people really destroy a good engine by not knowing what they were doing when adjusting. Not rocket science, but certain things matter when this is done. Rod

12secvx · 03-11-2016, 08:53 PM

I actually manage to make a living as Toyota Master Tech. So though I was a bonehead and rushed and ended up cracking the block. I'm actually very knowledgeable and have the tools and know how to rebuild and check the bearing oil clearance. But like most people if you aren't a 100% positive ask questions. I enjoy working on my model A though it is relaxing. And a huge change from working on Prius and Camry engines everyday.

12secvx · 03-11-2016, 08:56 PM

Center Main

12secvx · 03-11-2016, 08:57 PM

And rear main

12secvx · 03-11-2016, 08:58 PM

And I found a bonus of sorts in it a aluminum cam Gear.

tbirdtbird · 03-11-2016, 11:13 PM

" one on the rear main on the cap but it is on the inside thrust toward the #1 Cyl."

would you mean the #4 cyl?

the crack shows in the last pic.
It seems the thrusts always give out before the actual journal bearing goes south

12secvx · 03-12-2016, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

" one on the rear main on the cap but it is on the inside thrust toward the #1 Cyl."

would you mean the #4 cyl?

the crack shows in the last pic.
It seems the thrusts always give out before the actual journal bearing goes south

Yeah, that was a horrible description sorry about that and thanks for clearing it up. I agree it isn't the best area to have a crack but I think if I just adjust the oil clearance with the shims I can still get a summer or more out of it and hopefully not have a horrible rear main leak. I plan on cleaning out the rear main oil drain tube and passage good prior to reassemble.

Gerald1961 · 03-12-2016, 12:40 AM

Please consider that glues like JB weld need layers of at least 30-100 microns to harden correctly giving them the high tensile strength. This means putting the cracked parts together will change their dimensions slightly when glue is in between.
To avoid this you could dremel a bead for the glue into the cracked pieces. If you cant do this, you should consider machining the bore after curing.

03-11-2016, 01:39 AM	#21
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Oh No! Now how am I going to fix this! As mentioned, that engine needs to come apart and get a thorough cleaning. Then I'd also try the adhesive. If the broken parts later came loose, they'd just lay in the valve galley. You could even lay a strong magnet next to the broken area to catch the parts if they did break off again.

03-11-2016, 03:50 AM	#22
colin1928 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Australa Melbourne Posts: 878	Re: Oh No! Now how am I going to fix this! If it were mine I bore out and install a sleeve

03-11-2016, 03:51 AM	#23
Dodge Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Sonoma, CA. Posts: 1,495	Re: Oh No! Now how am I going to fix this! I would bore the hole out a bit and make a stepped sleeve and press it in. Turn the drive housing down a bit and you would be good to go. It will take some tricky machining to get down in the block but I think I could be done. I'd try it if it were mine.

03-11-2016, 08:31 AM	#24
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,159	Re: Oh No! Now how am I going to fix this! I would consider a mechanical repair, take a long bolt, 2 washers, cut a notch in the washer used for the top, use the bolt and washers to clamp the broke piece into position, then through the notch drill a small hole that is the size of a small machine screw (6-32?or so)---tap the hole for threads, put in screw till it bottoms, cut off flush, move washer and put in another screw -----there would be no need to have a perfect seal, any slight leakage would just go into the valve chamber

03-11-2016, 08:51 AM	#25
12secvx Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Posts: 91	Re: Oh No! Now how am I going to fix this! I will try to take the pan off today and see what the actual state Babbitts look like and then I guess that will probably gauge how much should get into the repair. It does look like it has been through a fairly hard life. There is just no way of telling from the outside how good a used a motor really is. Which is why I took it apart in the first place. I had a bunch of spare parts and gaskets laying around and was planning on making a decent running motor to use this summer then store as a back up. I have a C head and rebuilt water pump for it as well as a B cam with good used lifters. I will post some pics when I get it apart.

03-11-2016, 10:47 AM	#26
1955cj5 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Boise, Idaho Posts: 1,578	Re: Oh No! Now how am I going to fix this! Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Take it slow, take pictures, and ask questions! Books are always recommended. This is a good place to start.. http://parts.modelastore.com/show_Product.asp?ID=6046 And Bert's has lots of used original parts if you need anything... The oil pump will drop out when you take the pan off, and if the engine hasn't been upside down on a stand there will be about a quart of oil in the dip tray, even if the pan is empty... __________________ Early '29 CCPU that had a 4-speed, but not any more.......in the family since '62

03-11-2016, 06:08 PM	#27
Tinbasher Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Innisfil, Ontario Canada Posts: 1,174	Re: Oh No! Now how am I going to fix this! Yes use the adhesive to bond the pieces back in place. Light years ahead of JB weld. John Poole

03-11-2016, 08:42 PM	#29
Rowdy BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gothenburg Nebraska Just off I-80 Posts: 4,893	Re: Oh No! Now how am I going to fix this! I hope you did not take my statement on finding someone to help adjust the bearings the wrong way. Seen people really destroy a good engine by not knowing what they were doing when adjusting. Not rocket science, but certain things matter when this is done. Rod __________________ Do the RIGHT thing - Support the H.A.M.B. Alliance!!!!

03-11-2016, 08:53 PM	#30
12secvx Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Posts: 91	Re: Oh No! Now how am I going to fix this! I actually manage to make a living as Toyota Master Tech. So though I was a bonehead and rushed and ended up cracking the block. I'm actually very knowledgeable and have the tools and know how to rebuild and check the bearing oil clearance. But like most people if you aren't a 100% positive ask questions. I enjoy working on my model A though it is relaxing. And a huge change from working on Prius and Camry engines everyday.

03-11-2016, 11:13 PM	#34
tbirdtbird BANNED Join Date: May 2012 Location: inside your RAM Posts: 3,134	Re: Oh No! Now how am I going to fix this! " one on the rear main on the cap but it is on the inside thrust toward the #1 Cyl." would you mean the #4 cyl? the crack shows in the last pic. It seems the thrusts always give out before the actual journal bearing goes south __________________ '31 180A

03-12-2016, 12:40 AM	#36
Gerald1961 Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Germany Posts: 59	Re: Oh No! Now how am I going to fix this! Please consider that glues like JB weld need layers of at least 30-100 microns to harden correctly giving them the high tensile strength. This means putting the cracked parts together will change their dimensions slightly when glue is in between. To avoid this you could dremel a bead for the glue into the cracked pieces. If you cant do this, you should consider machining the bore after curing.